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I'm in the market to purchase my first corvette. I was getting pretty excited about it and ready to pull the trigger on the first nice one I came across. After reading a lot of the threads, I've started looking closer at the cars and finding issues that I would have overlooked because I was in corvette love!!!
Thanks for all the great threads that may have saved me from regretting my first corvette.
I've decided on a C3 preferable 78 - 82. The most common thing I've come across it minor electrical issues and the A/C not working. A/C isn't a big deal because I would usually have the tops off anyway. The big question I have is, should I totally avoid any car that has rust on the frame between the door and rear wheel. I heard that was a common spot for rust, but don't know if that is deal killer or not.. Any suggestions or comments are welcome.. Thanks!
many corvettes have rusted frames and birdcages. the secret is to buy them at a major discounted rate.. never pay a no rust price for a rusted corvette if you expect to sell for anywhere close to what you paid for it.
it is not cost advantageous to buy a rusted one and fix one up. the 78 to 82's have a price ceiling.
people buy rusted corvettes all the time.. drive them for a couple years and sell them. fixing them is impractical.
i would start at 50% of what a no rust car would cost..
also depends on the amount of rust. if it HAS to be fixed, it is a parts hulk. you can clean up a lot of frame and body mount rust and protect it from rusting and weakening further.
also depends on the amount of rust. if it HAS to be fixed, it is a parts hulk. you can clean up a lot of frame and body mount rust and protect it from rusting and weakening further.
What determines HAS to be fixed?? I'm far from a frame expert, but it didn't look like it was in a spot to cause structural issues. The rust I saw looked like it was the end cap where the frame transitions upward. I was afraid to poke too hard for fear a poking through..
Have you read the sticky at the beginning of this forum, ten rules for buying your first C3? Read it several times. Most feel that frame rust thru at the kickups and/or a rusty birdcage are deal breakers. Either could cost thousands to fix properly.
Have you read the sticky at the beginning of this forum, ten rules for buying your first C3? Read it several times. Most feel that frame rust thru at the kickups and/or a rusty birdcage are deal breakers. Either could cost thousands to fix properly.
I have read it and that is where I got some of my advice from, but I like the idea of reading it several times. There is a lot of suggestions and good advice that I may have read over..
Do you have the skills o fix a rusty frame? If not, you will underwater quickly at almost any price. Even if you have the skills to do this, why would you? There are rust free cars out there to be had.
Take pics of every car you look at and post them up here....Others will comment and you will learn over time what to look far. Don't be afraid to poke at the frame with a screwdriver....You don't have to stab at it with all your might.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
There is surface rust which they all have, flaking rust which is deep into the frame and a good warning sign, then daylight rust which you can see daylight though because of tthe rust hole. IF your frame is flaking huge chunks or you can poke a pensil though it, why would youbuy it unless you had another frame to replace it with? Thn why would you buy omething that you had to invest that much time and money into before you could enjoy it.
A replacement frame is going to cost you $1000, then what ever is attached that you need to transfer over may need replacing. You will ned all new body mounts, bushings, probably trialing arms, definitely parking brakes, brake lines and fuel lines. Then the time, and a place to lift the body, roll out the old frame and roll in the new one.
So all that if you do it yourself could be another $5000 in parts. So you are looking at investing $6000 more if you have all the tools and know how to do it yourself, plus finding friends to help.
I would find a car that has a decent body, paint and frame. Everything else is simple to fix.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
I forgot that if the frame and body mounts are that rusty then your windshielf frame is probably as well. Look up other members work on replacing that. I do not want tto have to do that
Best advice? Have any car you're considering inspected by someone qualified to evaluate Corvette frames & birdcages. And don't stop there.
Suspensions and trailing arms, brake systems, electrical systems can be potential headaches with big dollars attached to have repaired if you're not inclined to do so yourself. Best to be informed before you purchase.
Regarding rusty frames/birdcages, I can't think of a worse scenario to involve yourself in. A very costly endeavor.
Do yourself a favor and heavily research the horror stories that owners have plagued owners with these issues.
ps. If you spot one area of rust that you deem "acceptable", who's to say that there is not another area of rust that you can't see that is more severe. Good luck.
Last edited by seacliffe301; Sep 13, 2019 at 08:00 AM.
OP, don’t totally discount the AC. Taking the tops off on nice days are great, but there are a lot of hot and humid days and nights in a car that is already known to get hot inside. When your girlfriend/wife doesn’t appreciate sweating in your car you might wish you had air, besides when you go to sell this car in the future you’ll see that most buyers want AC.
Do you have the skills o fix a rusty frame? If not, you will underwater quickly at almost any price. Even if you have the skills to do this, why would you? There are rust free cars out there to be had.