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So... I have a China re-poped rag joint for my 71. Quality appears decent and "flat" in correct spot. This piece doesn't have a ground strap or wire inbedded in the flex disc. I have read many posts
here that continuity must be maintained across the couplers or the horn will not work. I'm sometimes challenged by wiring diagrams but isn't ground for the horn provided by the wiring harness?
Maybe I am confused.
The continuity across the rag joint is insurance that there is available ground at the steering wheel horn button. The horn button on the steering wheel provides a ground to the horn relay which sends +12 volts to the horn. Many times the ground for the horn button is available through the steering shaft bearings also.
Most 'good' auto parts stores will carry 'body ground straps'. They are braided copper wire with loop ends. Just tell them what you need (length and hole size in loops) and let them rummage around to find something that will work. If you find one that is too long, cut out the section you do not need and solder the butt joint back together (use a propane torch to get it hot enough to take solder). That joint will be solid, but the rest of the braided wire will flex enough to get the job done.
Last edited by 7T1vette; Nov 19, 2019 at 03:05 PM.
Thanks '75, your explanation was a huge help. I was confused.
Thanks Mooser for your 2.0 solution. Has it held up these past 4-5 years?
I also like Jim Shea's solution to use the lower mounting plate wired to a ground point.
Would the same point on the birdcage that is used by the dash harness be OK to use?
What type/size wire should be used??
Thanks '75, your explanation was a huge help. I was confused.
Thanks Mooser for your 2.0 solution. Has it held up these past 4-5 years?
I also like Jim Shea's solution to use the lower mounting plate wired to a ground point.
Would the same point on the birdcage that is used by the dash harness be OK to use?
What type/size wire should be used??
100% still works perfect, the amount of movement is so little and it's all taken by the braided wire and not the ends.
The dash harness ground (behind the kick-panel) should work, I used that same point for my backup cameras and power door locks (I believe)
Amp draw on the horn relay isn't all that much (fed by a 20g at the harmonica), I tend to use 16 or 18 for grounds on "light" electronics
M