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One down - one to go. Pretty happy with the results so far. Keep in mind, this is not a NCRS car (at all LOL). Just shooting for a nice day 2 type driver.
just a reminder (more for the next guy reading the thread) the buckets have a specific order even though they look the same
M
Hey Mooser - you are correct sir. Mine were marked with letters A - D and they have a specific order to help aim the headlights. Looking at the front of the car the order is C B D A from left to right (A would be the drivers side outside light - C is the passenger side outside light etc.).
You probably know this but as those look like new vacuum motors you should check them VERY thoroughly before installation. They should hold vacuum indefinitely both ways*. Put under vacuum multiple times and verify that they hold! Sadly the new reproductions from China (the only things available) are poor quality and a large proportion of them either leak immediately or begin to leak after only a few operations.
* The side that holds the doors closed should hold vacuum overnight or longer. The side that holds them open (with that "accordion" shaft seal) seems to loose vacuum relatively (a couple hours or so) on every example (OEM and reproduction) I've tested. Some Vaseline or similar on the shaft will keep the leak to a minimum.
You probably know this but as those look like new vacuum motors you should check them VERY thoroughly before installation. They should hold vacuum indefinitely both ways*. Put under vacuum multiple times and verify that they hold! Sadly the new reproductions from China (the only things available) are poor quality and a large proportion of them either leak immediately or begin to leak after only a few operations.
* The side that holds the doors closed should hold vacuum overnight or longer. The side that holds them open (with that "accordion" shaft seal) seems to loose vacuum relatively (a couple hours or so) on every example (OEM and reproduction) I've tested. Some Vaseline or similar on the shaft will keep the leak to a minimum.
Thanks for the heads up. I shouldn't be surprised given the poor quality of some of the "restoration" parts.
You might also consider shooting some clear lacquer on that servo to keep the chromate wash finish looking new. Otherwise it will dull and turn to zinc oxide (gray) in just a few years.
You might also consider shooting some clear lacquer on that servo to keep the chromate wash finish looking new. Otherwise it will dull and turn to zinc oxide (gray) in just a few years.
Thanks for that tip as well. I'll do a little test on the backside with some matte clear that I have and see how it looks.
Great job Adam ,I agree with swampestmike about checking the actuator as one I got leaked straight away and couldn't send back because I had them for a year before fitting ,ended up painting one of the originals to replace the new one .
Hey Doorgunner! Cool - hope they help some people out. Keep in mind these are not up to NCRS standards - just a clean and detail for a driver, so don't follow this example if originality is important to you.
Very cool work Adam. I was planning of doing the same thing as you with my car but then I thought about how problematic replacement canisters and relays can be, so I instead decided to go with the electric headlight door motors many folks on here have.
Hey Doorgunner! Cool - hope they help some people out. Keep in mind these are not up to NCRS standards - just a clean and detail for a driver, so don't follow this example if originality is important to you.
Perfect for me....my project was sub-basketcase when I bought it, but couldn't let it rot away.
Some progress on the headlights
Keep in mind, this is not a NCRS car (at all LOL). Just shooting for a nice day 2 type driver.
