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Interior re-dye

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Old Dec 3, 2019 | 12:20 PM
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Default Interior re-dye

The interior in my 73 was changed from saddle to black by the original owner about 20 years ago.
It still looks good, but I will be redoing it as part of my resto/mod next year.
I'm not sure if it was painted or dyed black.
Is there a way to tell?
When I re-dye it black, will I need to remove the old dye or paint before I redo it, or will a good cleaning be enough?
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Old Dec 3, 2019 | 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by OldCarBum
The interior in my 73 was changed from saddle to black by the original owner about 20 years ago.
It still looks good, but I will be redoing it as part of my resto/mod next year.
I'm not sure if it was painted or dyed black.
Is there a way to tell?
When I re-dye it black, will I need to remove the old dye or paint before I redo it, or will a good cleaning be enough?

Maybe a little lacquer thinner on a spot to see if it was paint. But most redye jobs are painted.
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Old Dec 3, 2019 | 02:11 PM
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Thanks
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Old Dec 3, 2019 | 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by 540 vette
Maybe a little lacquer thinner on a spot to see if it was paint. But most redye jobs are painted.
ALL "redye jobs " are paint
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Old Dec 3, 2019 | 05:31 PM
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Thanks, but will the old need to be removed before the new can be applied?
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Old Dec 3, 2019 | 09:27 PM
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From my limited experience, auto interior dye is just a flexible paint. It does not penetrate like a wood stain or fabric dye, but is applied on top. I used spray cans.
You can probably just clean your existing and spray over. But, you could have a problem with dissimilar products that could lift off the existing, which also rarely happens with spray paint. Try it on a out of the way area.
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Old Dec 4, 2019 | 12:17 AM
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If the material last applied to plastic interior parts is cracking, flaking, or popping off, it is probably just "paint". Yes, vinyl dye starts life as a 'paint' product, but it's attributes are quite different, depending on how it is formulated. You can make regular paint flexible with adding elastomeric agent to it. But, that still won't make GOOD vinyl dye.

SEM ColorCoat in liquid form is very thin...almost watery. But it has VERY dense pigment, it will bond with a properly prepped surface, and it won't flake, crack, or pop off with time. You can change from one color to any other color (black to white, even) with only a couple of good coats. You can put multiple layers on without losing grain definition. And you can recoat or recolor previously done parts with no problem.

Depending on what is already on the parts, using a good quality vinyl dye -- on squeaky clean parts -- will give you parts that look like factory-new stuff.
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Old Dec 4, 2019 | 12:52 AM
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Another vote for the SEM line of vinyl dye (flexible paint).

My 80 was originally red, until a PO decided to go with black, likely just paint. I've since redyed many pieces, some back to red, some (including the halos) to oyster white. The best results were when I cleaned everything VERY well (I used the SEM soap, Scotchbrite pads, lots of rinse water, and did it several times), used the vinyl prep spray (don't use too much), and then the SEM ColorCoat.

The SEM ColorCoat is pretty awesome, as long as you don't lay down thick coats, and the surface you are applying it to is absolutely clean of oil and dust.
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Old Dec 4, 2019 | 06:47 AM
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I did mine from red to black using SEM color coat Landau Black. Used all the SEM prep products but did not try to remove previous red. Came out perfect and is a good match for the stock black interior color. Different interior materials had different prep products, I think two to be exact. Also used the SEM soap for prep along with the recommended gray scotchbrite pads.
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Old Dec 4, 2019 | 11:13 AM
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Thanks to everyone who responded.
The original owner seemed to have done it right and used good products as there is no cracking or peeling anywhere.
The only areas where I can see any of the original color is some areas of the thread stitching.
I will use the SEM cleaning products and SEM Landau black so everything is like new.
Thanks,
Greg
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