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"Smoke" might work for a pressurized system; but smoke in a vacuum system would not come out of vacuum hoses or components. To the contrary, outside air would be ingested at the point of any leakage. The 'smoke' would go into the intake manifold to be blended with the fuel charge.
The best diagnostic method for a vacuum system is to isolate (plug/block off) a small portion/component/vacuum line and draw a vacuum on it, looking to see if the vacuum level decreases (indicates leakage).
All you need is a jar with a lid, something to burn that smokes (sock with some baby oil), and some sort of pump to force the smoke into the hoses. The video uses a soldering iron for the heat source ($4 at Harbor Freight) , and a bicycle tire pump, but I've also seen one that used the small orange transfer pump from Harbor Freight ($7). Since some of the vacuum circuits on our vettes are only active while the engine is running and switches in certain positions (you do the smoke test with the engine off), you'd have to check those hoses separately from the hoses attached to the engine.
Beware of check valves - as those only pass air one direction, and note that once smoke makes it to the inside of the intake manifold, it will come up thru the carb, so you might want to somehow seal the top of the carb. I've never done this on a carbureted vehicle, just saw it used once on a fuel injected car.
If you decide to make one, be sure to post up your results.
I just use an unlit propane torch.......as soon as vacuum sucks in the propane, the idle will change. Much easier.
I do this on vintage Japanese bikes too......the propane sniffs out leaks on a multi carb like nobodies business.
The whole idea of smoke test is to look for an area that will indeed suck the smoke in. Such as under a carb, Intake gaskets, Vac hoses etc. If the smoke is drawn in somewhere, there is your leak.
This smoke test, like the propane bottle or starter fluid spray test is usually hindered by the wind from the fan blowing over the entire engine. For a true test, the fan belts should be removed, just briefly of course.
The whole idea of smoke test is to look for an area that will indeed suck the smoke in. Such as under a carb, Intake gaskets, Vac hoses etc. If the smoke is drawn in somewhere, there is your leak.
This smoke test, like the propane bottle or starter fluid spray test is usually hindered by the wind from the fan blowing over the entire engine. For a true test, the fan belts should be removed, just briefly of course.
Actually, the smoke is usually pumped into a stopped engine, and then you see the smoke coming out of the 'leak'. I was skeptical at first also, but I witnessed the smoke coming out thru a leaky fitting. I personally usually use the carb cleaner method on a running engine (same principal as Jebbysan's propane gas). Also, on a fuel injected car, sealing the air intake is much easier than sealing the top of a carb.
Ok, gotcha. The ones I saw had a pin point smoke gun and you aim it at suspected vacuum leak areas with engine running. (But the fans force gave poor results).
Similar to the type used to check for cold drafts in houses.
Lots easier to spray some carb cleaner (little puffs only) at an area in the vacuum system on a running vehicle (as mentioned above). Engine will rev if any of that vapor is sucked into a 'venting' crack/brake/tear/hole/leak-path. That will work for any vacuum system item that is directly connected to the intake manifold and/or carb base plate.
The smoke method may work on system with non-running engine; but I'd prefer to test isolated sections of a 'problem' system using a hand-held vacuum pump.
I have used a smoker when I 1st bought my 69'. It works great and I found all the old garbage components. I was lucky to be able to borrow one a friend.
joe