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Looking for information on high output alternators. Electric fans and fuel pump running headlights could that be enough to tax a stock alternator? Any good sources for info would be appreciated.
I bought a 120 amp chrome 10si off eBay for under $100, delivered.
It was a direct bolt on. Came with a v-belt pulley, and it didn't require changes to the existing harness, although I did make up a new 6ga. power and ground harness to the starter.
I'm running dual electric fans, huge audio amplifiers, and halogen headlights. No problems after 5000 miles.
We will see how long it lasts. Worse case scenario, I have to rebuild it later, but it would still be chrome. Woohoo.
Good luck.
Jeff
I’ll be running a Powermaster 17294, 100amp, 12 S, which can be run with 1 or 3 wire set ups and has a nice chrome finish.
I called Vintage Air and Dewitt's who told me that 100amp will be plenty to run the ac, dual Spal fans, headlights and not have any issues on the road or idle.
Both told me that if I was planning to run EFI, electric fuel pumps and an updated sound system to consider a higher amp alternator.
Powermaster 47294-104 here. 150 amp 12SI. I am running a 340lph Aeromotive Pump, FAST XFI and MkVIII fan. Works great. Voltage stays at 14.3 to 14.5 volts at idle even with fans running and all lights on.Added a second charging cable direct to battery (so my AMP gauge barely moves anymore).
Powermaster 47294-104 here. 150 amp 12SI. I am running a 340lph Aeromotive Pump, FAST XFI and MkVIII fan. Works great. Voltage stays at 14.3 to 14.5 volts at idle even with fans running and all lights on.Added a second charging cable direct to battery (so my AMP gauge barely moves anymore).
Some free advice here, so take it for what it's worth, lol - I'd reconsider that direct cable to the battery. If you charge the battery too fast or too much it will overheat and could be bad news. Batteries do better if charged slowly.
Some free advice here, so take it for what it's worth, lol - I'd reconsider that direct cable to the battery. If you charge the battery too fast or too much it will overheat and could be bad news. Batteries do better if charged slowly.
Will a higher amp alternator hurt my battery or charging system?
No. A good rule of thumb is that more amps are not harmful, but more voltage is. If you look at electrical power like water, amperage is equivalent to the volume of water, and voltage is equivalent to water pressure. More amperage is like having a larger pool of water to draw from.
Is there any modification I need to do to my wiring to install a high amp alternator?
Powermaster recommends increasing the size of the charge wire from the alternator to the battery. Recommendation regarding the proper wire gauge can be found here.
Do I Need a Bigger Battery Wire to the Alternator?
Battery Wire Size and High Output Alternators
When upgrading to a higher output alternator you should always install a larger wire between the alternator and battery . Even with a standard output alternator you will get better performance and life out of your alternator if you upgrade the main battery wiring. The original wire just isn't large enough for proper power transfer. If you are using your alternator to it's maximum output or when you upgrade to a higher output Alternator you must increase the wires size. An alternators ability to send the power it is making to the battery is directly related to the wire size and quality of connection between the alternator and battery. Also, a wire that is to small when used on a high output alternator can cause the power to back up within the alternator making it overheat, burn up and fail.
Another area that little is paid attention to is the ground. You must also improve the ground as well. A poor ground will hinder the alternators ability to send power to the battery and can burn an alternator up just as fast as an inadequate alternator to battery wire. Your ground may be fine when you first install your alternator but over time corrosion and resistance builds up in the ground connections. This is why it is best to run the ground directly from the rear of the alternator to the battery.
Here is another great auto electric tip from Alternatorman on upgrading the wire between the alternator and battery. Alternatorman says, you do not need to rip out your old wiring when upgrading. You can piggy back a second wire between the alternator and battery. The main battery wire connected to the back of the alternator has power to it at all times, even when the vehicle is shut off. You connect this wire like normal then you run a second wire between the alternator and battery. The power coming out of the alternator will treat the two wires as one, power follows the path of least resistance.
On a safety note, when running the second wire you should fuse it near the battery. The fuse is just in case the wire gets pinched or shorted out, the fuse will blow instead of the wire burning up. You should use the largest fuse you can for the wire size, fuses are restrictive to current flow. Typically you want the fuse value to equal 80% of the wires load carrying capacity.
I have run an extra #6 wire from the alternator to the a power stud down by the starter where it ties into the rest of the harness. It also has a fusible link. I also added a grounding strap from the alternator to the cylinder head so I am not relying on the alternator mount for a ground.
By doing this, I am avoiding pumping 100+ amps thru factory wiring designed for 40 amps, plus factory amp gauge no longer pegs under load.
Some free advice here, so take it for what it's worth, lol - I'd reconsider that direct cable to the battery. If you charge the battery too fast or too much it will overheat and could be bad news. Batteries do better if charged slowly.
The alternator decides on how much to charge the battery- it delivers current on demand. The issue is- when at idle and the alternator can not put out the current needed - the power then comes from the battery. Think of the battery as a savings account and the alternator as your income. And when the engine is at idle - basically you are drawing unemployment!!! AND think of the smaller the gauge of the wire- as service fees.
Car batteries (marine are a different animal) are designed to give a bunch of current when starting and charge up equally as fast.
I run a 1/0 directly from the alternator to the battery and then EVERYTHING else off the battery. I have a lot of electrics- Electric power steering-Electric fuel pumps-12 Fuel injectors- 12 coils- electric AC compressor- Dual electric fans-upgraded headlights 80/100w- electric headlights-etc I also added a bunch more grounds...
This same wiring is done by BMW ($100K car new)- wired directly from the alternator to the battery- then everything off the battery.
***NOTE**** If piggy backing wires- running in parallel - make sure each is protected- current flows both ways!!! The fuse should protect the WIRE size.