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Looking for input on this 69 Corvette

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Old Jan 10, 2020 | 08:47 AM
  #1  
ihaveahotwife's Avatar
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Default Looking for input on this 69 Corvette

https://m.facebook.com/marketplace/i...ssenger_banner

input please? Owner does not have tank sticker1969 Corvette Numbers and Decoding



VIN:​​​194379S713139

​​​713139=1397th built in January 1969

​​​Per GM shipping data report; official productiondate was January 15, 1969

Trim Tag:​​F14, F= January, 14= 14th

​​​Trim 402= Black Leather

​​​980 Paint= Riverside Gold

Engine Block Casting Date: J23_.8 = Oct 23, 68

Block Final Build Date:​T115 MK

​​​T= Tonawanda

​​​115= November 15

​​​MK= 427ci/400hp, Transistorized Ignition, 3x2 Holley carb

Oil Pan: ​​3899621

Exhaust Manifold: ​Left 3880827LHI correct date range

​​ ​ Right 3880628 correct date range

Engine Casting Code: ​3963512 = Oct 1968

Block VIN: ​​19S713139 = matches VIN Tag

Fly Wheel Housing:​ 5899621

Starter: ​​Deco Remy GM High Torque

​​​0D167= 1970, April 16 (not original, starter has been replaced)

Transmission: ​​79S713139 = matches VIN Tag

​​ P8T14B P=HD Muncie, 8=1968, T=December, 14= 14th day, B=close ratio

Holley Carburetors: ​Front 3902353, Center 3940929, Rear 3902353

K66 pointless transistorized ignition with original spark box



Differential: ​​8871875

1 FA _ 12_ 1=shift, FA= 3:70 HD Positraction, _ (could not read), 12=day, _ (could not read)

Brake Calipers:​​Delco Moraine

Left Rear: 6473080

​​​​Right Rear: 5432281

​​​​Left Front: 6413726

​​​​Right Front: 5473796

Last edited by ihaveahotwife; Jan 10, 2020 at 05:10 PM.
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Old Jan 10, 2020 | 01:24 PM
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Not enough info there. He obviously broke his fingers describing the car....lazy-*** seller!

Tri-powers go for much more than that if it is a TRUE 435 Hp. You should AT LEAST have the engine stamping numbers.

Facebook will steal your soul!

Many C-3 owners do not have the tank stickers....they were paper and disintegrated and or blew away.

YOU NEED the matching numbers...he says engine and transmission match....that means NOTHING.

Personally...if $42,000 was on the line...I would have written more than 5 words and posted 4 sh!tty pix.....I am suspicious..

its an early 69.

Unkahal
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Old Jan 10, 2020 | 01:25 PM
  #3  
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It looks great but I don’t think it’s worth the asking price. Just my opinion of course.
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Old Jan 10, 2020 | 01:48 PM
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18,000 miles? Seriously?
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Old Jan 10, 2020 | 01:49 PM
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my 82 had 16,000 on it when I bought it.....IT'S PROVING IT...THAT'S THE QUESTION...

I didn't like the ad....looked like he was hiding something.
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Old Jan 10, 2020 | 02:29 PM
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Been a C3 owner for the longest time...Even if its not matching numbers and its a solid car that runs great,make an offer....Get a good price and enjoy the car for what it is...A big block in a great color which this is, will stand out...Yes, if he was asking ridiculous money for a car that was not original, than yes, stay away..But, if everything looks good, drives well and has big block power ? Go for it and just enjoy it....The whole matching numbers nonsense gives me a headache after a while...

I seen many people shy away from cars because they were not matching numbers...Yet the original ones they bought were freaking money pits .....The non original ones were a lot cheaper and provided the buyer with less headaches...
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Old Jan 10, 2020 | 02:34 PM
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John, what worries me is complete lack of documentation and or proofs.

Yes it's a big block, but big blocks come in at least 3 flavors in 69.....what is it REALLY.

Your point is well-made...don't care if the 2nd carburetor is matching numbers....it's the REST of it.

Cheers UNKAHAL
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Old Jan 10, 2020 | 02:35 PM
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I don’t think it’s a 435hp car. Look at the tach.
If it’s a real 400hp car then the price is a fair starting point for a car with no docs and assuming it’s a born with drivetrain 69.

Beyond that you have to look at the car carefully. Need more pics. Need to see a close up of the engine and trans stamps. Inspect the birdcage, trim tag, typical mechanical issues, etc.

Its worth looking at.
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Old Jan 10, 2020 | 03:06 PM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by L-46man
John, what worries me is complete lack of documentation and or proofs.

Yes it's a big block, but big blocks come in at least 3 flavors in 69.....what is it REALLY.

Your point is well-made...don't care if the 2nd carburetor is matching numbers....it's the REST of it.

Cheers UNKAHAL
Like Ed says, its worth looking at...That is a great color and body looks real clean....Get that thing in the air and inspect all the serial #'s.....I'm sure there has to be a registry with a 427/435 car where you can compare numbers....
Saw a you tube video recently of a barn find 67 GT 500....Car was a mess and didn't have the original block but everything else matched up..
Guy picked it up for $65,000....His intentions were to restore it to driver quality and enjoy it, not stare at it..
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Old Jan 10, 2020 | 04:33 PM
  #10  
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Additional pictures









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Old Jan 10, 2020 | 04:40 PM
  #11  
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Received this as part of documentation:



The carbs finally checked out really well after repairing all the items and correcting all the setup issues – see attached invoice for a listing of all issues found and corrected. I ran the carb setup through all modes of operation from cold-start, hot re-start, idle, and no-load cruise. Idle is glass smooth, off-idle response is crisp, and mixtures are right where they should be. I have verified correct operation of the choke system and the fast idle cam system - the fast idle sets perfectly, and releases smoothly. As long as you have a choke coil and rod that produces upward force when cold and pulls down when hot, the fast idle and choke will work as it should. I also spent a bit of time assuring that there are no fuel leaks at the lines, connections, or at the carbs, and I put each one of the carbs through a stand-alone air bubble leak check at 10psi, including a bubble leak check of all fittings and connections (I found 2 small leaks at the carb inlet sealing surfaces this morning due to some slight irregularities in the gasket sealing surfaces - I burnished the surfaces and corrected the leak issues). The system was also leak checked with gasoline at 7 psi during the test run and setup. It is performing flawlessly and is leak-free. Float levels have all been set and verified, and the linkage rods have been correctly adjusted. I think you'll have some fun with it.


Your carbs actually running on the test engine:

[img]blob:https://www.corvetteforum.com/087c3368-2fad-4eb3-8601-fc287fd4da66[/img]













Running cold with choke closed (using light upward finger pressure on the choke rod lever since I do not have a reverse-operating 427 choke coil on the engine) and cracked open by the pulloff with engine running:

[img]blob:https://www.corvetteforum.com/7ec70853-b1ef-46ff-9b95-88a0eeb524da[/img]















































Cold fast idle set to about 1250. This is at initial startup at 35 degrees:

[img]blob:https://www.corvetteforum.com/773e9e00-50a1-48c8-aaf2-12b718210419[/img]

















































Cold fast idle air/fuel mixture right on the desired number in the mid-12's:

[img]blob:https://www.corvetteforum.com/035a6b8e-68c5-422b-84ea-7e46b4fcb84c[/img]





































I also received the following:

Your carbs are ready to ship out via USPS Priority Mail.



The carbs finally checked out really well after repairing all the items and correcting all the setup issues – see attached invoice for a listing of all issues found and corrected. I ran the carb setup through all modes of operation from cold-start, hot re-start, idle, and no-load cruise. Idle is glass smooth, off-idle response is crisp, and mixtures are right where they should be. I have verified correct operation of the choke system and the fast idle cam system - the fast idle sets perfectly, and releases smoothly. As long as you have a choke coil and rod that produces upward force when cold and pulls down when hot, the fast idle and choke will work as it should. I also spent a bit of time assuring that there are no fuel leaks at the lines, connections, or at the carbs, and I put each one of the carbs through a stand-alone air bubble leak check at 10psi, including a bubble leak check of all fittings and connections (I found 2 small leaks at the carb inlet sealing surfaces this morning due to some slight irregularities in the gasket sealing surfaces - I burnished the surfaces and corrected the leak issues). The system was also leak checked with gasoline at 7 psi during the test run and setup. It is performing flawlessly and is leak-free. Float levels have all been set and verified, and the linkage rods have been correctly adjusted. I think you'll have some fun with it.


Your carbs actually running on the test engine:

[img]blob:https://www.corvetteforum.com/1d501e4e-dba0-41a0-91f7-32cf2550caeb[/img]













Running cold with choke closed (using light upward finger pressure on the choke rod lever since I do not have a reverse-operating 427 choke coil on the engine) and cracked open by the pulloff with engine running:

[img]blob:https://www.corvetteforum.com/3487ee66-0b73-48c3-b9d6-4e82868ebf9d[/img]















































Cold fast idle set to about 1250. This is at initial startup at 35 degrees:

[img]blob:https://www.corvetteforum.com/cda28d18-f8f6-44eb-887c-d72a0310ebbb[/img]

















































Cold fast idle air/fuel mixture right on the desired number in the mid-12's:

[img]blob:https://www.corvetteforum.com/18d58c40-ef24-468c-9e54-0eed0fda3093[/img]

















































Running hot with choke wide open. I ran the system for just over 1/2 hour:

[img]blob:https://www.corvetteforum.com/e3788a16-82cb-4e63-b164-6968aeb0cf93[/img]



















































Hot idle speed set to about 850:

[img]blob:https://www.corvetteforum.com/86cba191-3d80-45cc-87fb-fa10c1211754[/img]

















































Hot idle air/fuel mixture right on the numbers at 14.7:1 (1.00 lambda):

[img]blob:https://www.corvetteforum.com/84bd0764-7d68-4e2c-85b5-e9a5beebdd8b[/img]



I have attached a copy of your final invoice to this e-mail in MS Excel format. I have added the airhorn air cleaner gaskets that you requested to the invoice along with the thread repairs and the special Holley sintered bronze inlet filters with the correct filter springs. In case you have any trouble opening the attachment, and in case you have any concerns about viruses, I am also pasting a copy of the Excel document into the body of this e-mail below. This sometimes messes up the formatting, so you may have to use your imagination to interpret all the data. If you could send me out a personal check for the total right away as we agreed it would be great. Please confirm receipt and acceptance of this e-mail and invoice, and verify when payment has been mailed – I hold shipment pending acknowledgement and mailing of payment to assure that you have received this note and that you are home to receive the package. I mail to the name & address on the invoice provided – The info is taken from the info sheet you provided with your parts, so verify that it is correct.



As always, feel free to contact me if you have any questions or if I can be of assistance in any way.



Good luck with the tuning. Take care!



Lars Grimsrud











Running hot with choke wide open. I ran the system for just over 1/2 hour:

[img]blob:https://www.corvetteforum.com/2b1b4a9c-b078-4159-8b16-21c93c25a7a0[/img]



















































Hot idle speed set to about 850:

[img]blob:https://www.corvetteforum.com/4398a1f4-9d06-4761-8e76-458b55604396[/img]


































Hot idle air/fuel mixture right on the numbers at 14.7:1 (1.00 lambda):

[img]blob:https://www.corvetteforum.com/f2954bce-9d2b-403e-888d-dedd5f722890[/img]



I have attached a copy of your final invoice to this e-mail in MS Excel format. I have added the airhorn air cleaner gaskets that you requested to the invoice along with the thread repairs and the special Holley sintered bronze inlet filters with the correct filter springs. In case you have any trouble opening the attachment, and in case you have any concerns about viruses, I am also pasting a copy of the Excel document into the body of this e-mail below. This sometimes messes up the formatting, so you may have to use your imagination to interpret all the data. If you could send me out a personal check for the total right away as we agreed it would be great. Please confirm receipt and acceptance of this e-mail and invoice, and verify when payment has been mailed – I hold shipment pending acknowledgement and mailing of payment to assure that you have received this note and that you are home to receive the package. I mail to the name & address on the invoice provided – The info is taken from the info sheet you provided with your parts, so verify that it is correct.



As always, feel free to contact me if you have any questions or if I can be of assistance in any way.



Good luck with the tuning. Take care!



Lars Grimsrud

Last edited by ihaveahotwife; Jan 10, 2020 at 04:47 PM.
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Old Jan 10, 2020 | 04:53 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by zrc3john
Been a C3 owner for the longest time...Even if its not matching numbers and its a solid car that runs great,make an offer....Get a good price and enjoy the car for what it is...A big block in a great color which this is, will stand out...Yes, if he was asking ridiculous money for a car that was not original, than yes, stay away..But, if everything looks good, drives well and has big block power ? Go for it and just enjoy it....The whole matching numbers nonsense gives me a headache after a while...

I seen many people shy away from cars because they were not matching numbers...Yet the original ones they bought were freaking money pits .....The non original ones were a lot cheaper and provided the buyer with less headaches...

what is a fair price?
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Old Jan 10, 2020 | 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by ihaveahotwife
what is a fair price?
A fair price all depends on what you see when you inspect the car. You can’t come up with a price without doing that.

The MK engine code is a 400hp tripower, 4 speed with transistorized ignition. The engine stamp picture isn’t very clear but it looks like it might be original. If this car is solid I’d say the asking price is very good. The trim tag looks good and it has leather seats. This is probably a pretty high optioned car. Trans ign and leather on a L68 is nice. This car was built one day after one of my 69’s.

If the car checks out anything under the asking price is a bonus.

While you said the seller stated he did not have the tank sticker, does that mean it’s NOT on the tank or he just does not have it in hand or didn’t check maybe? Sometimes you never know, maybe it’s still on there.

Check out the car in person.
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Old Jan 11, 2020 | 10:46 AM
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What are your concerns?
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Old Jan 11, 2020 | 12:18 PM
  #15  
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if it checks out I don't think his asking price is too far off. looks like a nice 69 BB . definetly worth a look.
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Old Jan 14, 2020 | 07:13 AM
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Well if I could see the whole car....I could add some input as I sold my 427/400 right here on this forum.......for about what he asking......

Jebby
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Old Jan 14, 2020 | 07:10 PM
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This is one of the reasons buying cars on the internet WITHOUT seeing the car and KNOWING what you see gets some in trouble.
Who knows where the pictures come from?
Who knows anything about the car except for the verbage from the seller?
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Old Jan 15, 2020 | 04:25 PM
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Hi OP, great comments and input. Where is the car located? Might be you could get someone to look at it with you so you will really know what you're getting into. Lots of great forum members on here who are very helpful

I picked up a 427/435 roadster from a forum member last spring after working with each other on what we thought was a fair price. I gave him my '72 roadster and cash (lots of it) and I think it was a fair deal - he wanted a bit more, and I wanted to pay a bit less. He was a very honest guy and we still exchange emails periodically. The car is a lot of fun - I'm doing quite a bit of stuff to it but it's over 50 years old and needs a few things done. Good luck in your search!
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Old Jan 15, 2020 | 08:01 PM
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Serial # stamped on block looks out of alignment. The 7 is crooked and the 3 and 9 look low. Might want to have someone knowledgeable in stampings take a look.
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Old Jan 15, 2020 | 08:42 PM
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The chrome bumpered big blocks are definately iconic.....Yet sometimes with all the nonsense and investigating numbers this numbers that,I'm like for the same money let me just get a used C7 stingray ....Lol..

Nicer ride, great stereo, working AC , good gas mileage and a lot faster...
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