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I've been removing the interior and some trim from my 1970 project and just can't figure (intuitively, with reference to the AIM, or trolling past posts) how to get the outer t-top rear anchor to come off. The two phillips heads screws were childsplay, of course, but this triangle thingy... well that's a different story. The thing looks threaded and when I rotate it, I can hear a plate on the reverse side (from within the fiberglass) spin with it and contact the inner wall of the halo. But short off turning it so hard it would breakthrough the fiberglass, I have no idea. PB blast the crap out of it> Screw the plate back into original position and wrench on the triangle? And exactly how does one clasp onto that triangle? Is there a special tool?
Any help would be appreciated. Thank you in advance.
The triangle bolt is threaded just like the screws for the mounting plate. You should be able to put a pair of pliers on it and unscrew it, though after 50 years, it may need a little PB Blaster. There's a nut plate in the b-pillar that the mounting screws and triangle bolt thread into. I usually put one of the mounting screws loosely back in the plate, to keep it from dropping. It's not a big issue if the interior is out, or coming out, but it's a real pain to retrieve if you have to pull the interior quarter trim panel.
Last edited by gbvette62; Jan 20, 2020 at 10:57 AM.
It is an odd thing to remove but it does indeed screw off. While the backing may seem it is turning 360 degrees it should not as it is captured if you will in it's location.
Put one of the screws or both back in place the remove the Triangulated bolt with a socket/pliers.
The backing piece will not fall out of place at least it did not on mine. You'll probably need to use a small awl to realign the piece when ready.
I'll email you pictures as this damn forum is working again.
Does anyone know, why this bolt has a triangular head?
When it is reinstalled, does it need to work as a guide and have the head align with an adjoining piece on the t-top?
CAskiguy,
Thanks very much for the pic. Though "captured," the backplate does seem to spin. Hope it doesn't fall into oblivion. BTW How did you get that piece out? Mine seems to be entirely encapsulated within the fiberglass of the halo. (So if it does fall, that'll be a BIG problem) Thanks for the advice. I'll give it a spin (literally) when I get home.
Does anyone know, why this bolt has a triangular head?
When it is reinstalled, does it need to work as a guide and have the head align with an adjoining piece on the t-top?
CAskiguy,
Thanks very much for the pic. Though "captured," the backplate does seem to spin. Hope it doesn't fall into oblivion. BTW How did you get that piece out? Mine seems to be entirely encapsulated within the fiberglass of the halo. (So if it does fall, that'll be a BIG problem) Thanks for the advice. I'll give it a spin (literally) when I get home.
I was in your current position and feared they same results, so before I removed the "bolt" I scoured the corvette junkers and found what I posted so I'd have a back up :-)
Nothing happened and all was good. Just reinsert the screws, remove the bolt, remove one screw/insert an Awl or nail, then remove the other screw. If I remember correctly CraigH 71' had the same concern and all went well.
I've been removing the interior and some trim from my 1970 project and just can't figure (intuitively, with reference to the AIM, or trolling past posts) how to get the outer t-top rear anchor to come off. The two phillips heads screws were childsplay, of course, but this triangle thingy... well that's a different story. The thing looks threaded and when I rotate it, I can hear a plate on the reverse side (from within the fiberglass) spin with it and contact the inner wall of the halo. But short off turning it so hard it would breakthrough the fiberglass, I have no idea. PB blast the crap out of it> Screw the plate back into original position and wrench on the triangle? And exactly how does one clasp onto that triangle? Is there a special tool?
Any help would be appreciated. Thank you in advance.
mine had loctite on the threads and it looked like from factory. it was very hard to turn i was ok with it breaking, but it ended up coming out,slowly and hard. i held the plate on backside so i didnt damage any fiberglass
That cage is rivetted on during the assembly of the interior panels and is indeed covered over , if you need to get at it , you got to cut out a small section of interior panel. Fortunately it doesn't show when all the trim goes back on .
Thanks, everyone. Got it out last night. Love using my new impact wrench. It broke loose on lowest of the three speeds and came out without issue... I ended up using the special pin head socket that fits all ... and the best part: I already had all the necessary tools.
Thanks, everyone. Got it out last night. Love using my new impact wrench. It broke loose on lowest of the three speeds and came out without issue... I ended up using the special pin head socket that fits all ... and the best part: I already had all the necessary tools.
Can you post a picture and manufacture for the tool you used?
Or, if is in a set, just the set and manufacture's name.
Thanks
Thanks Richard!!! I have enough tools - woodworking, electrical, plumbing, yard and car tools!!!! Oh - and enough T-Shirts too!!! I am working a new plan - G.R.O.S.S. Get Rid Of Schmidt Silly!!! It's slow going but progress is being made!!
How does this come off?
