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So, pulled the trigger on a Quickjack 7000SLX (same size as 5000 but will also lift my truck). Two boxes arrived yesterday, third one today so got it all assembled.
Got a big issue. Car is 1975, big block swap with Hooker sidepipe headers. Got the jacks under the car with the 3" blocks in the trays. Have about 1" clearance at front to frame, 1.25" at rear. Now, here is the issue. Only have between 1/2" (driver side) and 1/4" (or less, passenger side) between the Hooker primaries and the top frame of the Quickjack. I can just see the QJ crushing the pipes before it touches the frame and starts lifting the car. This was with the QJ set up to lift the car forward with the frames as close to the rear tires as I felt comfortable. Tried turning frames around to lift to the rear but clearance seemed worse.
Just missed QJ customer service so will call them tomorrow. Only thing I can think of is getting the 1.5" blocks and stacking them on the 2" blocks to take up some of the clearance. QJ says you need some clearance to build pressure so concerned about taking all that up.
Questions for those using QJ:
1) Lift to the front or to the rear?
2) What blocks do you use?
3) Anyone have Hooker side pipes (either small or big block) with Quickjack?
I can only answer the first two
1.. Both, I typically lift so the car moves back (towards my garage door, marks on the floor to make sure it doesn't hit) but when I'm doing rear suspension work (like this winter) I spin them around and lift forward
I've also lifted with the jacks sideways (twice I can think of) when I needed at the trans crossmember
2.. I use the taller of the two blocks. I really didn't like the looks of how it squished so I've never stacked the two. If I needed more height I'd add a wide plate (plywood or something) under the single block so I wouldn't worry about it flopping over
3.. no sidepipes, can't help there
I also remember the warning that the jack had to lift before pressure but I thought is was a very small amount, an inch or something?
M
When I lift mine I use all 8 supplied jacks. One large and one small block on each of the 4 jack points. I have side pipes as well, and place the blocks right behind the side pipes/headers
When I lift mine I use all 8 supplied jacks. One large and one small block on each of the 4 jack points. I have side pipes as well, and place the blocks right behind the side pipes/headers
Thanks. I don’t have enough clearance to stack the 3” and 2” blocks together. QJ sells 1.5” blocks so may buy a set of those to see if that would work. The 7000 is 1/2” taller than the 5000 which is probably not helping the issue.
75’, no side pipes, not lowered. I always lift moving car forward but that is only because of space in garage, I don’t think it really matters. I only use the thicker supplied rubber blocks, I tried stacking them when I first got the lift but felt like it moved too much/was unstable with blocks stacked. I think a more rigid support like a piece of wood under the thicker block would work fine.
Not a quick jack, but the same idea. This gives me clearance to get a floor jack with a spreader to lift by the rear spring, straddling the under-the-diff exhaust. The pressure treated 2x10 has a ramp cut into it. 2 of them stacked would be 3 inches.
Last edited by Bikespace; Jan 22, 2020 at 06:37 AM.
Interpon sorry everything is put away for the winter ,what I do is lay out the quick jack and I put two 2x6 about two ft. long on top of it ,I leave a space in the middle so when I raise the jack there is a gap where the cross member is ,works perfect,this way the whole length of the frame is taking the stress instead of where the rubber blocks are set at , I have a 5000 ,and it is nice , if im confusing on explaining this let me know ,and I will go snap a pic and put it on here! Bill
How about 1” tall wood pads to drive the car onto? One under each wheel, or maybe just at front.
That way, I could stack the blocks which would help with clearance to the headers.
Thoughts?
Sounds like a good plan. I'd put a pad under each wheel to keep things even.
Have you looked into the SUV adapters? I can't use them on my '73 while the tires are on the ground but if I get it up in the air a bit first, they work fine and give me extra height for working.
Edit: To clarify, I can use the SUV adapters without first raising the car but I have to raise it to use the extension poles that came with the SUV adapters.
DC
Last edited by DC3; Jan 28, 2020 at 08:29 PM.
Reason: Clarification
Sounds like a good plan. I'd put a pad under each wheel to keep things even.
Have you looked into the SUV adapters? I can't use them on my '73 while the tires are on the ground but if I get it up in the air a bit first, they work fine and give me extra height for working.
DC
I am thinking some kind of jack assist ramp plus the SUV adapters. I like those better than stacking blocks.
Last edited by SteveG75; Jan 22, 2020 at 12:40 PM.
Interpon sorry everything is put away for the winter ,what I do is lay out the quick jack and I put two 2x6 about two ft. long on top of it ,I leave a space in the middle so when I raise the jack there is a gap where the cross member is ,works perfect,this way the whole length of the frame is taking the stress instead of where the rubber blocks are set at , I have a 5000 ,and it is nice , if im confusing on explaining this let me know ,and I will go snap a pic and put it on here! Bill
i shall try this and report..but waiting for extensions for my 5000..seems backordered 2 months
Update. Order 3” jack assist ramps from Race Ramps and the SUV adapters. Summit had in stock. Delivery tomorrow.
New issue. One air cylinder is not holding pressure. 45 psi of preload bleeds off in two days. Waiting for call from Quickjack tech. Probably going to need a new cylinder.
Don't want to get car up in air and not have jacks lower all the way.
Update. Order 3” jack assist ramps from Race Ramps and the SUV adapters. Summit had in stock. Delivery tomorrow.
New issue. One air cylinder is not holding pressure. 45 psi of preload bleeds off in two days. Waiting for call from Quickjack tech. Probably going to need a new cylinder.
Don't want to get car up in air and not have jacks lower all the way.
says 95% of time take out schrader valve and check for debris, looseness, or por thread seal teflon from quickjack..one of mine leaked still releases make sure down button pushed longer to fully collapse and if not just push it...
says 95% of time take out schrader valve and check for debris, looseness, or por thread seal teflon from quickjack..one of mine leaked still releases make sure down button pushed longer to fully collapse and if not just push it...
Replaced schrader valve. For the price, I want it fixed.
Need Quickjack help/advice
