Not quite sure where to turn, stuck in a bit of paralysis by analysis, so thought I'd solicit some advice out here...

I acquired a 1980 C3 from a family member. I live in Missouri. I am very mechanically inclined, but haven't worked on a project car in a very long time. It's got family history, so I didn't do much investigating before buying it. Saying "no" really wasn't an option. It has sat outside under car covers for many years. It has seen better days paint-wise, but it is all still there (more or less), and still totally stock. It does run and drive. I knew it had a transmission issue before I got it, so that was rebuilt first. While up on the lift I got a good look underneath and didn't really see any major rust or mechanical issues. It also appears to have had the front end control arms rebuilt "recently".

Right off I know it needs to be painted and have a few spots on the body repaired. I also need to get a closer look at the birdcage to see if there are any deeper issues. I'm suspecting at least some around the windshield at the lower left corner of the driver's door, but not sure if there are more elsewhere....yet. I wanted to get it to pass a safety inspection before I can get it registered and then get it to the body shop for a more detailed inspection.

Clearly, I don't want to dump a ton of time and money into it before I at least try and get the whole picture. For example, I know it needs weatherstripping throughout, but there's no point in doing that until after paint, and there's no point in getting to paint unless I am (reasonably) sure there are no major surprises waiting. The same for a bunch of the vacuum tubing to the headlight actuators, gas gauge, interior, etc. No point in dealing with those issues yet.

There are a few smaller safety inspection issues I can address myself, but one of the larger ones is an exhaust leak on the driver's side A.I.R. tubing right at the exhaust manifold. The tubing is broken/corroded right at the center two compression fittings, near cylinders 3 and 5. Clearly, I could spend $200+ on new plumbing and then struggle (I assume) to get the old one unscrewed from the manifold. But, what are everyone's thoughts on what should I do in the longer run? If, assuming no major issues, the first thing I would do is put on headers, then sinking that money and time into those tubes right now really isn't a good bet. I could try and epoxy repair the point where the tube meets the compression nut. Certainly not a long term fix, but perhaps one that would get me past the safety inspection. Is it as much of a pain to get the old fittings out of the exhaust manifold as I think it would be? I can't see getting the manifold off the engine and then trying to get them out as any easier, but perhaps that's the way to go?

Does the idea of pulling off the emissions equipment make sense these days? Go to headers and side pipes, or at least headers and duals? Would I get that much better performance and reliability out of it? It's old enough where I'm emissions inspection exempt. I'm not 100% stuck on keeping it bone stock, but I don't know that I would want to just throw out the removed parts either, with the thought that maybe "one-day" I could put it back to original.

There is plenty to do on this. Aside from the points above, I know I have to take it one bite at a time, but where would you start?

I should add, other than the transmission it still has old oil, coolant, PS fluid, plugs, wires, etc. in it. It did run out of gas during the transmission rebuild, so I at least know it doesn't have 24 gallons of 10 year old gas in it. I put about 4 gallons of premium in hoping that'd give me some cleaning action. Do I drop in some sea foam? Change the oil first? Or maybe change oil after trying to sea foam? Same for a general tune up, plugs, wires, cap/rotor. Just trying to get a plan of action together.

Thanks!

 

If your state doesn't have emissions standards, I'd say if you want pipes....pull it all out and do it. That's exactly what I did and I'm pleased as punch with the results.

It's gonna be a money pit. I knew that buying mine in October. It is what it is. If you can have fun with it, you may find it's cheaper than therapy. At least that's what I keep telling myself.

Good luck.

 

I'd recommend changing all the fluids including brake fluid. Check the age of the tires. Anything beyond 7 or 8 years old needs to go. Even a low speed blowout can do major damage to these fiberglass cars depending on how the tire separates when it blows. Remove the emissions. Change belts and hoses. Tune up the engine. Test everything to see what works and what doesn't and fix what is needed from a safety standpoint.

After that, drive the car and let it tell you what it needs. That last point was the best advice I received when I first picked up my '73. I had ideas as to repairs, modifications and improvements I wanted to make but it didn't take long for the car to prioritize those options for me.

Good luck,

DC

 

Best of luck OP. Being a rookie C3 owner, I’m more of a “lurker” around here than anything else. I’m sure many here, myself included, would love to see some pictures of your new project! You’re definitely in the right place for outstanding advice.

 

@Gregg's77 "It's gonna be a money pit."....yes. I had that conversation with myself, and my wife, before making the purchase! Just stuck at the moment looking at all that needs to be done, figuring out what to do first, and it what order, while trying to not do things twice, or three times.

 

I'm a long-time rookie on the Forum. Welcome!

Cliff's Notes:

Safety First/Brakes...Steering Issues...TIRES...Exhaust System...On-board Fire Extinguisher...Windshield Wipers...Working Headlights...Etc.

IF you want to keep the car drivable, repair any other Issues One-at-a-Time.

IF you want to keep costs down...buy GM Model-Specific repair/overhaul manuals (NO Haynes/Chilton) and do your own repairs...(I never touched a Corvette until I joined this Forum)...Start with easy-to-repair items first.

Annnnnnnnnnnd...post lotsa' pictures

 

@DC3 You make some good points. I still need to work out what to do with that driver's side A.I.R. tubing in order to get the safety inspection done and get it registered, but maybe I just replace it and drive it a bit. In the grand scheme it's probably not a ton of time or money. Do all of the smaller, lower cost, type things to at least the engine and see where that puts me. I guess that's sort of where I was heading. The last thing I want is to rush to have it painted and all of the interior cosmetics only to then spend months after that leaning over the fenders doing mechanical work.

 

Ok, MO has safety inspection. Emissions are exempt 95 and older. So the A.I.R. system can be removed. Birdcage rust. Pull the kick panels in front of the doors and check the #2 body mounts. Paint. Do the body work and take it to MAACO. These 7000 dollar cars do not need 5 to 10000 dollar paint jobs and locked up in back of the body shop for 2 years. Here is a link to a thread about inspecting and buying a C3. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...orvette-6.html. go to post 107.

 

safety Inspection or emissions? Air tubing needed? Remove the tubing and pump and plug it if that bad?

still all original cat and everything?

pics?

 

He had pulled out the seat and the carpets due to a water leak, but I have them and are in great shape. Just need to resolve the weatherstripping replacement.

Seat cover and steering wheel cover are "vintage" and clearly must be limited edition.

 

@interpon Yep, all original. Just safety. It's exempt from emissions, but an exhaust leak is considered a safety issue.

So, you're suggesting pull off the whole A.I.R. now, pipe plug the manifolds, then head for inspection. Interesting. Well, that would likely work. As I said, it's not really an emissions issue. It's a safety issue because of the leak. Even if I only took the belt off the A.I.R. pump, pulled off the tubes to that manifold, plugged the four holes, I would think that'd meet the requirement. That certainly might be an easier road to go, and perhaps a time saver at this point to getting it legally driveable. Thanks!

 

depends on
specically what are they going to check and focus on that, safety is good..brakes lights horn etc..

if you want to keep as original as possible i think vendors on here and or others sell the air pipes..

it is up to you.. if it was me i would take off pump and related piping..not sure if yours goes to cat too? And plug it off..KEep the old parts if you change your mind..

good color combo..

also check for rust

 

I hope you get that car squared away! 80s are favorite. Black on Oyster cars are also favorite (I have a 79).

I used these plugs when I removed the rusted out AIR tubes in my car. They worked great, until I went with sidepipe headers. The holes are straight thread, 1/4"-18 NPS (Not NPT!)

https://www.rickscamaros.com/camaro-...1967-1981.html

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...old-plugs.html

If you pull off the smog pump, be sure to keep it! Otherwise, plugging the leaks and taking the belt off should be sufficient for a safety inspection. Be sure to check some of the other normal problem areas, too, such as parking brake, rear strut rod bushings, before you go see the inspector.

Good luck!

 

Fix er up man. I have an 80 that I've been bringing back to life for years. I pulled every piece of emissions off the second I bought her at 16 years old. I think the beauty of these years in particular is the amount of cheap parts available for them. You can do an affordable rebuild if you scour CL and the CF forum part postings. And your floor looks to be in tact which I did not have the luxury of which was by far my biggest annoyance to fix. And my paint looks like yours too. I was going to save up to repaint the whole thing but the rat rod look is growing on me not that I got black side pipes....which I recommend.

 

Looks like you are from the Fenton area. Lot of folks around that can help if needed. Make sure that the water leak on the passengers side is not from the heater core. When it warms up you need to take a ride to Creve Coeur airport, several of us rent a hanger there and would be happy to give you a hand.

 

Black is also easy to touch up. You shoot a panel here a panel there. Matches pretty good. But don't be trying to paint all car in a residential zone. Your neighbors will hate you for a long time .

 

Car looks pretty decent overall. If the bird cage isn't rotted out, its worth fixing up some and getting it road worthy for sure.

 

Thats what I was thinking . I would do the over the fender stuff first , no sense possibly damaging a new paint job when the car isn't in mechanical condition to run and drive with all systems working. Paint job is going to cost the most, doing that first will give you only a nice looking car in the garage thats not drivable.

 

Thats exactly what I’m doing. My paint is checked and oxidized, but I’m doing as much as I can under the hood first so I don’t tear up a new paint job fixing mechanicals.

Even with the lousy original paint I still get compliments and comments all the time. I even came out of the grocery store one day to find a woman and her husband looking at it. She carefully reached out and gently touched the car as I walked up. Thought she was going to pee her pants when I asked if she wanted to sit in it. These cars do something really cool to people and sharing that is half the fun. Enjoy!

 

Thanks all. I ordered some A.I.R. plugs and should get a shot at working on it this weekend, weather permitting. The other bits I need to address are pretty minor. I'll let you know if it then passes safety!