When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
For those of you who have dyed interiors in the past or present, is there a product that you apply to the newly dyed interior panels when you are done to help preserve the color, remove the rough surface grain of the dye and return the vinyl surface to the smooth-like finish the vinyl had prior to the re-dye process?
Did all the steps: 1. degreaser / cleaner multiple times to remove oil, finger prints, old Armor All and other interior vinyl cleaner products used over the years, 2. denatured alcohol wiped several times to remove any remaining grease and oil from surfaces, 3. interior vinyl dye primer, 4. multiple light coats of interior red vinyl dye allowed to dry completely (20-30 minutes) between light coats.
The finished surfaces have a slight gritty feel to the surface once done. Wondering if there is another step I should be taking to help smooth the finish and also to preserve the newly dyed color surfaces?
...is there a product that you apply to the newly dyed interior panels when you are done to help preserve the color...
No sealer top coat on my car. I used SEM and it's still on there after 20+ years. If you have a gritty/rough surface, you're using too much air pressure when spraying the dye..
No sealer top coat on my car. I used SEM and it's still on there after 20+ years. If you have a gritty/rough surface, you're using too much air pressure when spraying the dye..
Hey Easy Mike,
Thanks for the quick response. I am also using SEM. I'll reduce pressure - thanks.
Not sure if this holds true for Dye, Gun distance and travel speed can also create a dry coat for Paint. I'm planning on using the SEM product for a Dash Pad so update us on your final solution. Thanks
Are you spraying out of an air paint gun, or spray 'cans'? Did you blow off the dust and use a tack cloth before spraying? Could be 'overspray' as someone else said, or maybe grit/dirt.
You can probably wipe it all off with a rag drenched in solvent (carefully) and re-paint the worst areas. But test an inconspicuous area first in case the vinyl/plastic you're spraying is intolerant to the type of solvent you're using.
Did not blow off surfaces, thought it would throw dust so I vacuum the surfaces instead with a brush attachment and a clean link-free towel. Have been doing that in between the light coats which seem to be helping. I also started turning off the oscillating fan I use in the garage while putting the primer and dye on. Let the primer and dye sit 5-10 minutes and then turn on the fan on for another 10-20 minutes to help it dry. Very likely I was moving dust around in the air which might have been settling on the surfaces while it was still tacky. I do not have a paint booth - that would be nice.
Vacuum works ok, as long as one is careful not to allow static which could "attract" or hold dust. Sounds like you were careful with your dust though. It's also possible the nibs were dust or crud in the paint or the paint cup (if sprayed). I've seen guys wipe out paint cups with a kitchen paper towel, the 'hairy' type.
Like I say, you can probably wash it all off ad start over. I used to work at a bodyshop for yrs, painted a ton of cars on my own over the last umpteen yrs. I've made just about every mistake in the book. I've had to wash more than a couple panels of fresh paint off where an unexpected problem occurred. One time I had to do the whole side of the car! I thinnk I grabbed the wrong reducer or something, ha ha.
Sometimes, if the primer is one type of substrate and the paint is another, you can choose the type of 'thinner' that will soften the paint but not penetrate the primer ....then wash down to the primer. For example, an enamel reducer may not wash off lacquer primer, so you can wash some paints down to, but not through, the primer (and not affect yer bodywork) ..that sort of thing.
IDK if that applies in your case, but either way, if its not up to snuff, re-do it and move on.
Sometimes, if the primer is one type of substrate and the paint is another, you can choose the type of 'thinner' that will soften the paint but not penetrate the primer ....then wash down to the primer. For example, an enamel reducer may not wash off lacquer primer, so you can wash some paints down to, but not through, the primer (and not affect yer bodywork) ..that sort of thing.
IDK if that applies in your case, but either way, if its not up to snuff, re-do it and move on.
Hey Mark G,
First - wished I had your experience. Spent my 38-career in food processing and now I am learning more about cars as a newly retired dude. Steep learning curve for me but I have the time to learn and am smart enough to ask questions and get help when I need it.
Second - I did wipe an area clean and did it over last night. Checked it this morning and it looks really nice. 10-4 on the static charge from the vacuum and brush attachment - had not thought about that. I'll certainly look out for static from the brush attachment and will find another option to avoid that altogether. I do have a temperature and humidity controlled garage so that helps I think. At least it keeps the temperature / humidity in the garage constant (70 degrees F / 45 percent humidity) while I am working on the cars. Also have a mini-frig in the garage, that helps too!
'Real' vinyl dye WILL NOT fill the surface grain...no matter how many time to recolor it. If you are using a product which DOES fill the grain, you have a can of regular paint with a FLEX additive incorporated. It will recolor the part. But it will not be as reliable or as usable as true vinyl dye. I think all of the online interior dyes in spray cans fit the latter category.
Last edited by 7T1vette; Feb 13, 2020 at 02:39 PM.