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I have a stock Delco 10si alternator. For my own satisfaction, I'm rewiring much of the engine compartment. My question with the alternation wiring is: why can't I run the #2 terminal (on the 2 wire connector) directly to the battery terminal on the alternator? They do both go directly to the battery+
Last edited by Old Man in a C; Mar 1, 2020 at 07:18 PM.
HOWEVER- You will be BYPASSING the fusible link- and will have the full power of the battery at the alternator terminal UNPROTECTED...and it the alternator output stud is connected to the horn relay then those wires are UNPROTECTED as well-
HOWEVER- You will be BYPASSING the fusible link- and will have the full power of the battery at the alternator terminal UNPROTECTED...and it the alternator output stud is connected to the horn relay then those wires are UNPROTECTED as well-
Good point but I'm not too woried about a unprotected shunt between the battery terminal and terminal 2.
I have wired mine like the drawing, with no fuse. I have a 140 amp one wire. Using a 8 gauge wire. I have had mixed info on protecting this wiring. Looking for input.
If the alternator shorts out-while running- smoke comes out and it stops making power. A puff of smoke and no fire...
HOWEVER- if the battery sees a short - it's capable of over 700 A-which would easily melt a 8 - 6 even a 4 GA wire running through the engine compartment - near flammable stuff, And unlike the alternator- it continues to supply power- just like the energizer bunny!!!
The idea behind fuses are not to protect the device -but blow before the wire melts/catches fire.
An inexpensive- simple way to protect your electrical system is to fuse at the battery
I’m no sparky genius but doesn’t the warning light have something to do with keeping the system from back feeding?
Fusible links are the only protection to keep from melting wires- if removed -bypassed- nothing is protected. Electricity not only follows the path of least resistance - but ALL paths.
If you have an ammeter (early C3's) and you wire "around" the existing harness, the ammeter will no longer function. The "current shunt" is part of that wiring bundle.
This is not to say that you shouldn't do what you are suggesting. It's only to inform you that the ammeter will not longer be operational. You could change it over to a voltmeter and easily wire that into your 'modified' electrical system.
Where can I get a fusible link for 8 gauge wire. If I have read right I will need a 10 gauge fusible link, f[have not found it
Thanks
I picked some up at NAPA a few years ago. But, some of the experts are starting to recommend getting away from fusible links and going with Maxi fuses instead.
and then purchase the desired amount. for your 8 gauge lead you would want a 12 gauge fusible link per the following from google:
What size fusible link should I use for a 10 gauge wire?
For AWG sizes (wire gauges), each fusible link is four wire gauge sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gauge wire, use a 14 gauge link (or for metric, to protect a 5mm wire, use a 2mm link).
Originally Posted by GBC
Where can I get a fusible link for 8 gauge wire. If I have read right I will need a 10 gauge fusible link, f[have not found it
Thanks
Alternator wiring... simple question.
