I’m installing all new weatherstripping after finishing my paint job. I have an 80, so the t top has that hard/solid supported edge near the door. No matter which way I adjust the window, I have a gap near that edge. I believe this is because I’m missing my headliner, which is staying off because my head needs the room.

how far in-board does the weather stripping need to be? Mine is pretty far in, 3/4”.

not sure how to move it further outward without drilling into the seal, rather than the channel. Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

picture attached:

 

Still doesn't fit. No luck with this metro weather stripping. I bought this weatherstripping 2 years ago and I didn't really look into it. Turns out this stuff is pretty much ****? Lesson learned.

 

It looks like yours might be 'twisted' at the front (see post below). I bought a set of Metros years ago before Latex came on the scene and never used them. The Metro's look ok, and I'm sure they'll work. They used to be the go-to product. See if you can get yours repositioned. If not perhaps there is a mfgr defect with how the inner metal ribbing is positioned. I would un-adhere and try to reposition.

I just received Latex t-top gaskets today in fact from Melrose tops. I bought glass t-tops from them a while ago and was impressed with the quality. I asked the guy who runs Melrose which gaskets he believes are as soft and most like the original GM gaskets and his advice was to go with the latex gaskets ...which I did (they sell all 3 types). I assumed the latex was better based on other gaskets I have, but I wanted to get his take. I bought them from Melrose b/c their price is good and they know their crap (they get them from Ecklers or Corvette America I believe is what he said). I felt I could get a straight answer from them rather than a 6-month new tech support person at the other larger Corvette parts houses. I haven't installed them yet, so I can't remark on fitment. Another plug for Melrose is I'm convinced a lot of the ebay products are 2nds or returns from other vette suppliers. I didn't want to get gaskets with air pits in them (been there). Melrose inspects them before they go out which also means something to me. They look really good and nice spongy and soft.

Other latex gaskets I've received in the last couple years have been so close to OEM, which is why I wanted to get a straight answer on the t-top gaskets vs the others. In fact, I have a pr of NOS A-pillar and rear door-glass gaskets in the GM box and the Latex are about 92% as good. That last 8% difference is b/c the new latex gaskets have a slightly thinner latex coating on the foam and are not 'quite' as well finished as the OEM GM gaskets back in the day. And as I said the joinery isn't as good as the orginal GM gaskets. But it's certainly not a deal-breaker ...the Metro gasket joinery isn't all that hot either. But that 8% diff. is minor and not a dealbreaker for me. That's just me being picky and pointing out the weaknesses. The latex are good enough that I'm probably NOT going to use my NOS gaskets for the door glass, and save them for another project or ebay them eventually (not ready to sell now so don't even ask).

I also bought latex door gaskets as well a few yrs ago. They will go on soon. I was waiting for the T-top gaskets b/c ya can't really adjust the glass till ya have the t-tops on.

The first thing you might try is ungluing your gaskets and repositioning them if that's what's necessary. If need be, you can 'tweak' the fitment if the glass needs to go up 'higher'. You can take a grinding wheel on an air grinder and very carefully grid some rubber gasket material away as needed (a little at a time). A grinding wheel kind of melts the rubber so the adjustment is fairly 'clean' looking if it's just an isolated region. You could always cover the repair with some rubberized liquid if need be. You might do that before going latex.

http://www.melrosecorvette.com/

Sorry for the long post.

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BTW,

Is it possible that the front edge of your gasket where you are having the problem, is slightly 'twisted' at the front edge. Meaning, the bottom metal ribbing in the front isn't fully seated **flat** to the fiberglass?

Can you peel it back enough to see? If thats the case you might have to release it on the corner and re-adhere it. 3M makes an adhesive remover (08984) that might make the job easier. Might be easier on the gaskets than using solvent.



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Thanks for the replies, but I returned it. Getting some crc weatherstrip by wednesday! Hopefully a lot less painless, I'll let you know.