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The $60 ones any good that EVERYONE seems to be selling, or step up to the Delco at 2x the price? Or is there an EZ way to adapt the cheaper, more typical switch? THX
The 68 switch is an abortion. The dummies got this switch from an old Chevrolet truck. They used the plunger ones on 63-67 and 69-up Corvettes up to 96 and stuck us with this piece
of garbage that is very hard to adjust due to the spacious room under the driver side dash.
See if Lectric Limited makes this switch. There is a hole missing on 68 brake pedals for the plunger tab that bolts to the pedal and pushes against the switch.
I highly recommend converting to the plunger switch. I went through the original switch and a new OEM one in less than three years of daily driving.
Hopefully someone who has converted their car lately can tell you how to rig the pedal tab. I bought the correct parts from GM and found out that I could not mount the tab
to the pedal. I ended up brazing it with my torch to the pedal out of shear desperation. Good luck. Lou.
The 68 switch is an abortion. The dummies got this switch from an old Chevrolet truck. They used the plunger ones on 63-67 and 69-up Corvettes up to 96 and stuck us with this piece
of garbage that is very hard to adjust due to the spacious room under the driver side dash.
See if Lectric Limited makes this switch. There is a hole missing on 68 brake pedals for the plunger tab that bolts to the pedal and pushes against the switch.
I highly recommend converting to the plunger switch. I went through the original switch and a new OEM one in less than three years of daily driving.
Hopefully someone who has converted their car lately can tell you how to rig the pedal tab. I bought the correct parts from GM and found out that I could not mount the tab
to the pedal. I ended up brazing it with my torch to the pedal out of shear desperation. Good luck. Lou.
I had a feeling this was some one year only BS! I've had a lot of Vettes and only remember the plunger type. THX for the info!
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C3 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2016 C3 of Year Finalist
THere is a hole there if you have power brakes, The clevis for the brake arm is in the lower hole an dth manual brake clevis hole above is empty. If you wanted to try and fabricate a way to use the plunger, it is poosible but probably not worth your time and agony of working under there. I know because I'm fabricating and installing a hydraulic clutch and the master is mounted ot the firewall behind the brake booster. Which is a hole other nighhtmare.....
Have you tried opening up that old switch to see if you can just fix it? Seems I read about that somewhere since it's a fairly large component ......
Originally Posted by Bad3
The $60 ones any good that EVERYONE seems to be selling, or step up to the Delco at 2x the price? Or is there an EZ way to adapt the cheaper, more typical switch? THX
Oh, bummer. Can you show us a picture of the innards? Maybe as a group we can come up with an idea to use some suitable micro-switch, from some other application, as a substitute...... maybe there is even room to install that newer "plunger" type to actuate with the 68 lever??? Just tossing ideas out. I'm lucky, mine has been ok since I replaced it 35 years ago.....
Originally Posted by Bad3
Yes, had it apart and cleaned to the point I was pretty sure it'd work, but failed twice lining up the tiny contacts on reassembly.
Oh, bummer. Can you show us a picture of the innards? Maybe as a group we can come up with an idea to use some suitable micro-switch, from some other application, as a substitute...... maybe there is even room to install that newer "plunger" type to actuate with the 68 lever??? Just tossing ideas out. I'm lucky, mine has been ok since I replaced it 35 years ago.....
looks like maybe I did get it together correctly but it just wasn't going to work
As long as the contacts are all clean and you assemble it correctly, it should work just fine. It is best if you put some dielectric grease on the body contacts. This will prevent contact burning from arcing when electrical contact is made, and will allow the switch to live longer before your next "cleaning".