Hi y'all, I'm working on the cooling system on our '68 427. Like many of us, I suffer from the 'while I'm in there.........' syndrome. I've been removing, refurbishing, renewing, etc. for about 8 weeks. I'm at the point where I'm putting things back together, and.........

When I went to install the new heater hoses last night (getting that done before I put the vacuum can and stuff back on) I noticed that the 5/8" heater core pipe wiggled when installing the hose, while the 3/4" pipe was solid. That bothers me and I don't want to button it up only to find I should have replaced the core. So, a couple of questions...

* The core wasn't leaking when I took things apart about 8 weeks ago. Should the fact that the one pipe wiggled and the other one didn't bother me? (I've never opened up a heater box on a C3 so I don't really know if this should bother me).
* Should I just replace the core anyway 'while I'm in there'? I'm replacing the radiator, water pump, hoses, belts, etc....................
* How much of a pain is it to get to the core on a '68? Anyone have any good pics of the process?
* If I replace the core, where is the best place to get one? I believe I read some threads a while ago that some forum members were having issues with new cores, but I can't find the info.

Thanks in advance for any help you can give! Paul

 

I would definitely replace it or get it re-brazed if the tube is loose. I got a new one from Eckler's or Zip 12 years ago and it's holding up fine. If the passenger lower dash and gauge cluster is out it's pretty straightforward on a non-AC car. Removing the lower dash pad is easy and the gauge cluster isn't too bad if you don't start yanking on wires. I'm not even sure if you need to completely remove the gauge cluster, just move it out of the way so you can disconnect the defrost vent. Don't know about AC cars. While your in there you will probably want to replace the firewall seal, lubricate the cables, and clean everything up and make sure it is all moving smoothly. I believe I did mine without taking the defroster vent out and I think I may have even left the cables connected. Removing the passenger seat would be helpful, although I didn't. Take a picture of the wire routing/vacuum routing on both side of the firewall so you get it back properly. There's only 4 bolts holding the box on and one for the core IIRC.

 

Thanks Kevin, you confirmed what I thought - and I ordered a new core and gasket set. It's a non-a/c car, so hopefully it won't be tooooo bad, but it just makes me more familiar with 'The Beast'.

Again, thanks for your help, Paul

 

So............I took an hour this afternoon to get after this. It looks like there are 4 studs going thru the firewall. Remove the firewall side nuts, unhook a cable, move the dash support out of the way, and I should be able to get at it. It can't be that 'simple'. What am I missing.....?

Thanks! Paul



Still tidy - I don't think anyone's been in there since they built it?

 

yep, looks good in there. I think you got it. Mine is an early '68, so no dash support. Looks like your flasher switch has been replaced, unless they came yellow from the factory.

Unplug the blue/yellow/orange wire harness from the resistor on the box and the 4 bolts holding the box in. You'll have to tug on the heater box a little. You'll need to take out the screws going to the face vent on top of the box. I have a vent going to the windshield defroster too that slipped on. I don't think you have to remove the cable to the diverter/baffle. I think you can just pull the box towards you and flip it down so you can see the core and the screw holding the bracket.

Be careful with the gauge bezel; they are thin just above the radio. It's a 68-only item and they don't make reproductions.

 

Pretty sure non-A/C heater core comes out from the engine compartment side (even simpler) : of course anything's possible on a 68

 

Yep take the engine side panel off and there is the core , looking right at you.

For sure take it to a radiator repair shop and get it pressure tested and repaired

But at least you can replace those foams air seals while your in there.

 

Sure enough, but that takes the blower out and cutting all the 52 year old sealant out, tidying it up and replacing it without butchering it. His car looks pretty stock/original. Getting the firewall nuts out to the far right side will take a contortionist not to mention trying to cut and replace the firewall sealant on the right. Even the service manual says to go from the interior...not that the CSM is the end-all authority to all C3 repairs. He’s 10 minutes from the core and has an hour into the job.

 

^^^^ I appreciate the help and ideas from each of you. Although I could go from the firewall side, Kevin nailed it when he suggested that I don't want to mess with the sealant and such from the firewall side. For 52 years old, and being optioned to go 1/4 mile at a time, this car is pretty well unmolested. The pic below shows why I'm going from the interior side - as messy as the factory sealant stuff is, it's what they laid down. Makes me smile when I see some of the ways our C3's are put together. Sure do like C3 style!

Any other thoughts/ideas are always welcome! Thanks, and stay well, Paul




A bit messy as I'm running new vacuum hoses, etc. - but won't finish this area until the new heater core is in..........

 

AH come on , where's your sense of ADVENTURE !

looks like the factory used all the sealer on your car , mine had next to nothing on it !

 

Of course my motor was out when I did mine. Is your replacement a Harrison or a genuine replacement? My replacement wasn't the exact same specs so the original holding clamp wouldn't fit. And yes I does come out from the engine side. I took out the expansion tank, the wiper door relay and wiper reservoir to make it easy as well

 

The factory sealant is a bead of caulk material on the underside of the blower cover.
Easily replaced by caulking cord found in most hardware stores.
Unsure what all that extra stuff is you have there on the top - perhaps a previous owners attempt to stop a leak?
.

 

Hmmmm. You guys have me rethinking this. I was assuming that the 'mess' of sealer was from the factory because it was uniformly bad/messy all the way around the whole thing. I still think it came that way, but............I have bead caulk and black butyl caulk and could remove the cover, clean it up, replace the core, and put it back. Or I could just complete the job from inside since I'm most of the way there. I guess I'll decide between now and when the new core gets here.

If I do decide to remove the cover, does the whole unit (including the blower motor) come out in one piece? I'll have to use a mirror and see if I can get at the nuts on the other side of the blower motor, and how many there are........

Rescue: the core I ordered is from Eckler's - said it was an 'OEM Replacement', so I'm guessing it fits? If it doesn't, I'll just find a radiator repair shop and get mine fixed.

Thanks, Paul

 

If you do a forum search there are threads with pics.
Easy job from the engine compartment esp compared with all the steps involved from the interior.
The cord caulk is applied in caulk/sealing grove on the other side of the cover.
The cover assembly tips or pulls out toward the passenger side (you can see the openings that go around the core tubes in your photo)
I've done several heater cores A/C & non and can tell you the non-A/c engine side is quite simple by comparison (and you've already removed the wiper actuator which I never do so even more access).
Pulling out the heater duct and replacing the lower heater diffuser behind the radio while avoiding the center cluster attachments is no picnic.
On the other hand, if your center console requires some maint item or clean up this is the opportunity for "while I'm in there".

 

Well, I've changed my mind and will remove the case with the blower and all - I'm guessing it comes out in one piece?

Then I can clean it up, re-seal it, etc. And I don't mind the interior stuff I did - now I know The Beast just a bit better. But I'm not putting the interior back together until the job is done. Just in case

Thanks, Paul

 

Yes the blower motor is seperate but you don't Need to worry about that. Just concentrate on the fasteners around the edges. It will come off in one piece.

 

Here's mine as it came out of the car,

 

Thanks Bazza, those pics really help. Paul

 

Ya , at least you know where to start digging !

 

heres a view of what you have to ge through




heres a view of the exterior left side as you look at it and the bracket on that side



close up and mouse nest



left small bracket



the interior mess you'll have. I dont recall removing the interior heater box entirley, just loosened it up to ge the heater out the other way




the right side bracket bolt. I pushed the box into the passenger compartment fpr a better view



the gasket



the bracket on the drivers side that i couldnt reuse



you'll have to twist it to get it out

size differences



this gasket wouldnt fit the new one

cleaned up ready for the prom


this is why a 327 is called a mouse motor



my mummified little friend that was in the heater for many years