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I have a friend that's had a 1969 Big block 4 speed car for as long as I have known him. I have always liked what direction he took with it but its never been running or nice just all there. always talked about buying it and now working toward that. Curious thoughts and price.
Car is a 1969, triple black big block 4 speed car. with AC
Original motor is on a engine stand says it can be stamped to make it matching numbers but heads have been redone so missing that?
Motor in car another friend built 460 something (454 block) with a 871 blower, Mucie 4 speed. AC removed. it will run with some gas and light work. I have videos of It running at one point just playing in the neighborhood. and it used to run fine with this whole set up. Side pipe car.
Paint is done and beat. Its been stored inside its whole life though, and all parts there with kids bikes and boxes and golf clubs sitting on and in it for years.. It has been hit at some point before he got it 20-25 years ago as he has to adjust a rear spring different to make it sit right. I don't plan to make it some stock matching numbers machine, I would plan to get it right, and tight, and nice interior, and everything working with the big blower and side pipes and good paint, and have a awesome hotwheels/ hot rod 69 vet to play with. Car show/cruise, what ever.
Hi Mittens. It sounds like an interesting car, and you'll get lots of help from C3 forum members. But we need a lot more info, pictures (including orig engine and stamp pad, some frame, interior, body damage), what's working/not working, etc. to be able to give good advice. derekderek gave great advice with his link.
It does not look wrecked (show body damage), just crappy old piant. I just know he had to adjusts one spring different to get the rear level back in the day. Original engine was a 427. Pulled it so the blower and him playing back then would not mess it up if something went wrong. which is why it has the 460 something and the 8-71 on it for hot rod/playing.
Car is a 1969, triple black big block 4 speed car. with AC
Original motor is on a engine stand says it can be stamped to make it matching numbers but heads have been redone so missing that?
Motor in car another friend built 460 something (454 block) with a 871 blower, Mucie 4 speed. AC removed. it will run with some gas and light work. I have videos of It running at one point just playing in the neighborhood. and it used to run fine with this whole set up. Side pipe car.
Both soft top and hardtop?
Original hood?
AC in a roadster adds value but will cost a few thousand to reinstall original equipment.
Original-to-the-car engine is on a stand?
Why restamping then?
Find out what exactly is on the stand: what ID pad says?
What casting numbers are on the block, heads, and intake?
While you're at it, find out the same info for the 454 block.
What does the data plate indicate on the console? (i.e., which 427 was originally in the car)
What tach orange/red line is indicated?
Deluxe or standard interior?
Power windows, tilt/tele steering, factory upgrade options?
Spare tire carrier?
All this is to investigate the degree of originality, rarity, and inherent value, whether you plan on restoring it or not.
(That blower has got to be horrendous for creating a huge blind spot!)
Last edited by barkingrats; Jun 24, 2020 at 12:48 PM.
IMO, it looks like all the modified stuff are easy replacements, crazy tires and wheels, bad sidepipes, engine. From your description the car is a real AC car with a numbers matching engine? Or “could be?” This begs the question is the block really a good candidate for restamping... block number, casting date format, having broaching done, etc. This is a separate discussion.
I think a numbers matching block in a car is where the value lies, and would not be affected by incorrect heads. Those are too easy to replace.
However, it sounds to me like you aren’t interested in a NM car anyway and you just want to play with it. That’s cool, leave the other engine on a stand, maybe even prep it up like a nice correct motor and include it when you sell. I’ve done that and significantly enhanced a sale.
The rest of the car in the photos doesnt look molested. Stay away from cutting up fenderwells, etc. big questions: is it originally black/black (code 900 trim tag). Big value bump. Are you sure the car was originally a BB? verify this. Is there frame rot in the kickups and windshield frame? Do you have all the AC parts? These issues will affect value a lot here.
Still, you will lose money at the end of the project, just so you know. I bought a decent, unmolested ‘69 triple black convertible and still spent a barrel of money before I was done. It’s expensive.
if you have a real black coded trim tag, and a date code correct and stamped original big block engine on a stand, and no rust frame and birdcage, and it is a real AC car ( with missing maybe just the compressor and hoses),
then the car is very valuable. but.. to have all this would be too good to be true...
add and subtract for the above and other stuff that might be in bad condition..
subtract lots for something you have to paint..a good Paint job costs more than putting a new frame under the car..
So.. would need a pics of the engine stamp, cast dates, frame, birdcage, close ups of the AC setup, and trim tag, in order to even make a guess of the value.
Yes its a True Black on black (triple black) 69, 427/4 speed car. I know this.
the motor on the stand is just that a 427 out of it, and something about restamping the heads.
its been stored inside since he has had it for 20 + years. The AC parts he has in the attic pulled it when he swapped motors and did the blower.
and it has been to the track but not more then 1-3 times this is not someone I don't know. I know the owner well, and know all 3-4 friends that have worked on it, or with him racing other stuff with the guy for the past 25 years.
Yes its a True Black on black (triple black) 69, 427/4 speed car. I know this.
the motor on the stand is just that a 427 out of it, and something about restamping the heads.
You're kinda skipping over some very important detail here. 427s came in different flavors and which flavor will have a significant effect on value. The heads are not what is stamped - they merely carry a casting number and date that may or may not add to the engine's value. The block is where the stamping happens. An original block will carry a partial VIN # of the body (thus "matching #s) and the engine codes for when and what build it was.
Re-stamping a block to match the car carries two really big considerations:
The stamp font and size are scrutinized as part of determining originality. Any old stamps won't do and folks are very, very knowledgeable about detecting fraudulent stampings.
If you stamp a block that is not original to the car in order to match the car, are you trying to deceive a buyer, implying it is the factory-original block? For what other purpose are blocks stamped?
I know you aren't interested in restoring it, but the value you are asking about is dependent on originality and rarity as if it were to be restored. One has to take these factors into account because that's where the value lies -- the potential to be returned to what it was when new. In truth, the 454, blower, etc have little value other than as parts.
Last edited by barkingrats; Jun 24, 2020 at 03:01 PM.
yes I am aware the 454 and blower don't add value just what's in it. I just happen to like that kind of thing.
I guess I am more so looing if I buy it for say 12k to 15k is that a good buy most likely? I don't know what 427 is was, I can ask but the more I ask the more thought goes into selling it or not selling it or pricing it. I don't think its going to be some rare bard find super pricy 427 version he is a car guy and would not have town it all down I dont think then again he did save it for that reason so who knows.
Send or post pics of the trim tag, engine pad, console plate, and tach area. If it is a true 427 car it will have the rear sway bar in place and caps vs u bolts on the rear end half shafts where it bolts to the rear differential. Pics of these areas will confirm the original paint color and whether it is a 427 car.
Not to be rude or stop the responses, so please do not read this reply like that. But I am not asking how to verfy if the car is a true bigblock 69 black in black vert... that part I know it is.
my question was simply if this is a horrible buy or decent or what. I know its indeed a True black on black Vert 69 big block 4 speed car. I don't know what version 427 I will take pics next time I am over there.
So even a basic 69, vert that's not rusted out and has a big block and a 4 speed in it.. has to be worth what? 8-10k? so this with more real thigns and colors more?
Is there anything worse, than wanting to buy a car and the seller say's " make me an offer ". I can guarantee, you will not like my offer. If you are selling, you should know what the car is worth and price it accordingly. Don't leave it to me to come up with a good number for you. If this is the case with your friend I would pass. That being said, a very cool project. I like it for under 10,000 . Wrong turn signal lenses in front, but you already knew that.
Not to be rude or stop the responses, so please do not read this reply like that. But I am not asking how to verfy if the car is a true bigblock 69 black in black vert... that part I know it is.
my question was simply if this is a horrible buy or decent or what. I know its indeed a True black on black Vert 69 big block 4 speed car. I don't know what version 427 I will take pics next time I am over there.
So even a basic 69, vert that's not rusted out and has a big block and a 4 speed in it.. has to be worth what? 8-10k? so this with more real thigns and colors more?
If the frame and birdcage are not rusted , it is worth $8-10K even if you are unable to 100% verify originality. The trepidation from some of us come from prior experience from sellers that are adamant about what they have only to find out it's not the case because they are going by what was told to them when they purchased it. As far as actual value, it would greatly depend on exactly what 427 option, everything matching, and the original trim tag verifying it was black/black (reproduction trim tags are available and look original to the novice eye).
More information and pictures will get you a better idea of value but if no rust I think you are safe at that figure.
IMHO, I think you should be asking how much you will have to PAY PROFESSIONALS to make it into whatever it's you're hoping it will be......
Say you buy it for $8-15K, and you move it all over to your garage then what????
Do you have quite a large budget to begin with this "project" after purchase? I'm just saying from where I'm sitting it's obviously going to be tens of thousand of dollars after purchase to get it even close to your description below. It would help your budget and your dreams if you're a skilled mechanic as well as a skilled auto body tech experienced with Fiberglas and painting, or you have a ton of cash.
"I would plan to get it right, and tight, and nice interior, and everything working with the big blower and side pipes and good paint, and have a awesome hotwheels/ hot rod 69 vet to play with. Car show/cruise, what ever."
you are asking about value. condition is paramount. primarily frame, birdcage and body. after that comes whether the 427 and trans and rear have the correct vin stamp and which 427. 390, 400, or 435 hp. 900 paint code is orig black. ALL of these affect that value you are asking about. so don't get pissy. ANY big block convertible that is not rusty is worth minimum 10k. and after you are done playing with that big-*** hot wheels engine that makes the worlds biggest blind spot, it will probably get you 1500 to 2500 off orig price and then you can see where you are going. but back to the paint and engine codes. like that guy in the first Dirty Harry movie. We gots ta know! so, do you feel lucky?