When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Special tools: (helpful but not essential) A plastic set of molding removal tools (harbor freight was my source) so you don't scratch any of the stainless. Some PB Blaster for the stubborn screws and phillips head screw drivers. I would avoid any power tools on those, unless you are really careful.
For the trim around the windshield, start with the weatherstipping then do the A pillar trim removal. That should reveal the crossmember chrome trim screws. Be careful with these especially as there is usually rust. The corner trim molding pieces that the T-tops secure to must be removed after the windshield. Trust me, they look like you can get them out without pulling the glass, but you will crack that windshield if you try pulling them before the windshield is out.
There are more detailed and clearer threads on this and other sites if you do a google search, but maybe that helps get you started.
After you find the screws for the side pieces (they're under a "flap" in the weatherstrip) and remove them the piece will still seem attached. First make CERTAIN you've removed all the screws (the assembly manual is a real help here) and then pull rather forcefully as they were installed with a generous amount of a black tarry substance. When you go to replace remove the old sealer with gasoline or other solvent and use fibered roofing cement (in a tube like caulk) to reattach. It's available at any hardware store and from the official GM description of what they used it is essentially identical except that the fiber is no longer asbestos. Don't let the "A" word bother you as it's utterly encapsulated in the bitumen and thus harmless.even when you're removing it.
How do you remove the chrome header piece that sits on top the windshield frame on a convertible? There are several screws, is it also glued? did not want to pry it and bend it. Thanks for any advise, Rob
There's usually a pile of sealant in there as well, just go slow / easy. You could protect the other piece with some tape, maybe slip a flexible "putty knife" to help separate the sealant as you go
M
take a piece of cardboard. draw a cartoon of the windshield frame. every screw you remove you screw into the cardboard at the correct place. one for inside and one for outside. these screws are odd sizes. most #8 with #6 size heads. and some of the side screws are SHORT. you buy a new stainless screw a little long and screw it into the side of the glass, bad things happen. also the 10 clips that hold the top trim. you take them out and the screw holes will disappear. and the repro clips are taller and will hold the trim up higher. buy the glass and install it yourself. the glass guy will say "i will absolutely get it at the correct height." then he will use the same bead of urethane he uses on all windshields and the trim gap will be over 1/4 inch.
Last edited by derekderek; Jul 15, 2020 at 07:27 AM.
