A family member of a friend has a 1969 convertible, 427, that they are considering to sell. It’s supposedly numbers matching, restored several years ago and in pristine condition but rarely driven because the owner no longer fits comfortably in it.

I’m more versed in C5s than C3s, so is there a good source of information that can shed light on what to look for when I see the car, value, etc?

Thanks for your help.

 

 

Download free app Corvette DNA

 

You can easily confirm the numbers matching. This site is helpful for confirming VIN, trim, engine codes, etc.

http://corvettec3.ca/

 

Just buy it!!!!! If you dont like it give it to me. but realistically the 10 things thread is the best. post 107 restarts the thread. If it was restored a few years back, I doubt there would be any rust issues. Anything else is easily solved, but there shouldnt be any other question of should or shouldnt, its a 427........

 

Really appreciate the responses. Thanks so much.

I just looked at the car (red on red 1969 convertible, 426, power brakes) and it is extremely nice. Restored 15 years ago but body and interior extremely clean, engine bay and undercarriage very nice but not show car clean. Very well-kept C3 and everything works.

I’m getting conflicting information on value. For example, the Corvette DNA app rates this Vette (1969 convertible, 427, power brakes) at just over $35k in what I would consider excellent condition.

Another site I often check is Collector Car Market Review. They have it at just over $43k.

I realize value basically what someone is willing to pay, but what is a realistic ballpark?

Thanks again.

 

You can also use the Haggerty Valuation tool put out by Haggerty insurance. It is closely aligned with how the insurance company would view its current value. It also defines the levels of condition like fair, good, excellent, concours, etc. It is also free and I have found it to be very helpful. Good luck in your assessment. Oh, and if you want it inspected I would consider using the outline of the NCRS guide book. That is what I use to inspect a car. Not for NCRS judging, but to assure myself I check off all the vulnerable areas. Good luck.
AllVettes4Me

 

I think it would depend on the horsepower options. If you get it and insure it for stated value, obviously use the higher of the 2. What is the sale price? 5 years ago I saw a lot of big block vetted starting in the low 30k neighborhood. Again condition and options matter and your description sounds good so far

 

The only reasonable question is "What are you willing to pay for that car?" If the folks who have the car are trying to sell it and they have provided you with what they are asking for the car, make an offer that is at the low end of what you think the car is worth on the open market [in your area]. Factor in the Covid-19 issue that no one is really in a buying mood at present. Then the bargaining process can begin. You make an offer, they counter-offer, etc. until you make a deal or until you decide they are asking too much for the car.

One thing I will offer to you: All of these 'stock' vintage cars are becoming dinosaurs; young folks want C3's, but they want them with modern drivetrains and upgraded brakes, suspension and steering. The sellers need to realize that demand for what they have is on the wane; they cannot go by what is seen on TV auction shows and 10 year-old price schedules. If you buy the car at a top price, you will not recoup that amount if you sell it in 5 years. But, you won't recoup your money on a new car, either.

Think through the issues, what YOU feel the car is worth, and put together a bargaining plan that you can live with...however it plays out. You MUST have a max price fixed in your mind when you go to deal on the car; and you MUST stick to it. The car you are considering sounds like a very good candidate for a great looking driver car. But there are others still out there....this isn't the only 'fish in the sea". Good luck!!

 

Any chance of posting a few pictures here? You would be shocked at some of the observations experienced C3 people could offer that you would not know.

 

I haven’t seen it in person, but here are a few photos sent to me. Appreciate your thoughts.

 

worthless. the sticker is gone off the valve cover... looks very nice in these pics. body gaps look good. looks pretty original. downside is it does NOT look like it is owned by a clueless idiot that has no clue it is worth more than 10k... i guess you meant yourself as the wannabe. cuz a car like this is what most of us wannabe driving. tell the owners to get the crap out of the map pocket.

 

Current owner has had the car more than 20 years, and had it restored not long after purchasing. I don’t know how extensive the restoration was, but supposedly they have all records. Cosmetically it looks very nice. Engine bay is clean but not eat-off-it clean, and I would assume/hope underside is similar. Owner has only driven it sparingly since restoration because it’s a tight squeeze, and has kept it indoors under cover. From what I can see, besides the 427 it has power brakes. I can’t see in the photos anything to indicate power steering. Also looks like an aftermarket radio. I’m not looking for a steal here (nice as that would be); just what is fair for everyone.

 

As good as it looks if your offereing, I would offer upper 30's.. Its in great shape, I was looking at he panel gaps as well and looking for wires hanging out and anything out of place.........Is he selling becasue he doesnt use it anymore or is it a have to sell situation? If you really want to be fair have an appraiser come look at it or take the pictures you have to someone that has decades of experience. You'll get an honest assesment. zooming in its a 390HP car with no power window or AC so that puts it closer to the bottom of the expensive list but again, the owner looks like he did a great job on it....much better than mine.

 

As Rescue said above it's an lower optioned L36 427, appears to be in nice condition although you'll need to look it over in the air on a lift. There are some incorrect and missing items (smog pump for example), not sure if that matters to you if you wish to have it judged.

 

Wow, that's nice. Good luck with the negotiations.
Peter

 

I am not interested in having a car judged, but I Do prefer originality. I am curious what else you see in the photos that are missing or incorrect. Thanks for your thoughts.

 

The missing smog pump was already mentioned. Tough to see in the image, but looking at the belt angles, is it possible there is a power steering pump, matching this routing diagram?



If you care about originality, I'd think you'd want to confirm that the numbers match. This is more than just checking that a partial VIN is stamped on the block. Make sure the three-letter engine code matches what is there, dates and numbers match on the carb, you don't have an engine that came with an automatic, only to now have a manual. Thing like that. If you are willing to pay a premium for originality, check all of that. This site has some codes to check.
http://corvettec3.ca/

Also, although it is red on red now, is that how it came from the factory? It may matter to you, it may not. Hopefully the trim tag is original, matches what is there, and is not counterfeit like many are on black cars.

 

You should get the VIN for that car and have local police give you a 'read' of its validity. It would also be good to know whether the car has been titled and registered in your city/state. Dealing with an out-of-state title....or no title...and being owned by a deceased party may be tough issue to resolve. Best to know the issues up front, before you commit. You could always put some money down on it with stipulation that the VIN comes back clean and that the title is legal and clear.

Based on what I can see of the alternator belt, I think the car has power steering, in addition to power brakes. NO power windows, no A/C, aftermarket radio [but it says "CORVETTE"],

Oh...and the master cylinder is painted RED !! Well, nothing is perfect............