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Hey guys,
The paint on my '77 is pretty shot. I bought the car about two years ago and I've replaced just about everything except for the paint. I'm a pretty good mechanic but my painting skills are completely untested. I went out today to get some quotes from my local shops. I offered to strip and sand the paint and take off the bumpers, trim, and badges, but even so, the lowest quote I got was $3,000, but most were around 4 to 6 grand. Is this pretty reasonable or am I getting taken for a ride? Secondarily, how hard do you guys think it would be to just do the paint myself? I like to DIY things, I find that sort of thing rewarding, but I just want to make sure the car doesn't look worse after I'm done with it.
[QUOTE= Secondarily, how hard do you guys think it would be to just do the paint myself? I like to DIY things, I find that sort of thing rewarding, but I just want to make sure the car doesn't look worse after I'm done with it.[/QUOTE]
you can definately do it yourself i was a beginner and read tons of info on the subject.
Paint / materials / gun / compressor, etc cost me about 3,000.00
Painted it my self, single stage poly, cut and buffed....
Results?
I'm surprised that the quotes are so low. In this part of the world that's what you'd pay some local guy to shoot the car in his garage, with uncertain results.
Hey guys,
The paint on my '77 is pretty shot. I bought the car about two years ago and I've replaced just about everything except for the paint. I'm a pretty good mechanic but my painting skills are completely untested. I went out today to get some quotes from my local shops. I offered to strip and sand the paint and take off the bumpers, trim, and badges, but even so, the lowest quote I got was $3,000, but most were around 4 to 6 grand. Is this pretty reasonable or am I getting taken for a ride? Secondarily, how hard do you guys think it would be to just do the paint myself? I like to DIY things, I find that sort of thing rewarding, but I just want to make sure the car doesn't look worse after I'm done with it.
I just finished painting my 71 convertible...stripped to bare fiberglass, primer, base/clear, wet sanding to eliminate the orange peel from my 1st time paintjob, in my garage. It took months. From my perspective someone else doing the job is worth it, provided you are confident the work will be done well and on your timeline. I have a whole new respect for the people that do this type of work for a living. Having said all this there is no better feeling than having someone look at my finished product and ask who/where it was painted, and I can say I did it myself right here. Good luck!
You want a good paint job, your looking over $10,000 on a Corvette. Its fiberglass, and until the paint is stripped you have no idea what bodywork is required. And bodywork on fiberglass takes more talent than on a metal car.......just think of all those ridge lines, an orbital will shave them off in a second. Lastly, the cost or materials is way more than you know, including paint, solvents, sandpaper,etc. This subject has been discussed many times on this forum, and you get what you pay for. The only paint job that would be cheap is if a PROFESSIONAL painter, familar with fiberglass, did the work on his own car, and charged no labor. Its all about the number of hours multiplied times the hourly rate.......its only fair. There is no free lunch.
Quality branded primer and paint alone will be in the $2000 -$3000 neighborhood and this doesn't include the filler or any other supplies. Now, assuming no body repairs, add in 3-5 days of sanding, prepping, block sanding, shooting, cutting and polishing at $100-$150/hr and you're looking at, what, $4000-$5000 added to the cost of the supplies. Rightfully or wrongfully so, many shops believe Corvettes must be near perfect out the door and that adds time costs over re-shooting a Camry, Accord, or some pedestrian vehicle.
Last edited by barkingrats; Jul 20, 2020 at 08:12 PM.
I'm thinking a Corvette is a hell of a way to "learn" how to prep and paint......You might just spend a whole lot of time and a whole lot of money to find out in the end that you wish you coughed up the cash and had it done professionally.
I guess I didn't realize the going rates around the country. I live up in Michigan's UP where everything usually pretty cheap, so what may be smoking deals elsewhere came as a bit of a shock to me. I'll have to get back to saving and hopefully I can get it painted next May just before the snow melts.
Me, I would roll the dice and consider painting it yourself. Depends on where you live though. I'm going to make some assumptions so I apologize in advance. I think you are young (<20) so you are cash strapped. Maybe live out in a semi-rural area. A 77's resale value should always be a concern. I just can't drop $5K+ and expect to get that back out. I think your car is white now, so would that be the color going forward?
I have painted a car in my garage in the middle of the suburbs. It was a mess. That paint floats everywhere and I wouldn't probably do it again. Luckily the neighbors didn't complain at the smell/chemicals. I have heard many stories where the police have been called for similar events. But you know it is kinda a right of passage to learn. Add this to the list of things in life that you probably shouldn't have done but did. Not sure if you want single stage or base/clear. I did the 2 stage and it actually turned out pretty good. I did buy a good buffer and good paint so all the orange peel disappeared. With some colors you can panel paint (section at a time) others it has to be all at once. If you have done what you described in the past, I think you have the ability to tackle this also.
I'm going to do mine- but I've got experience in this. Not a lot, but enough to know I can do it. It's a labour of love. But- as others have stated, a Stingray is NOT a good car to learn on. Even preparing it wrong could be disastrous. That said- here's why you're being quoted thousands of dollars:
(1) Strip whatever the current paint is down to the fibreglass. This includes any bondo. I can't guarantee my work if it's applied to someone else's. If that previous repair delaminates, it will kill the paint, and I'll look bad.
(2) Repair. See point 1.
(3) Skim coat, block sand panels straight. Prep is everything.
(4) Repeat #3 until you're learning karate from Mr Miagi.
(5) Repeat #4.
(6) Sealer coat. We want this paint job to last, so the surface must be sealed.
(7) High build primer.
(8) Sand it again
(9) Repeat 7 & 8 until you're satisfied.
(10) Final primer coat.
(11) Colour coat. Assuming base/clear.
(12) Clear coat. Several coats
(13) Wet sand, Buff and Polish.
(14) Reassemble the car.
And, you've not considered the tools required... to do this right, you need a GOOD quality compressor- capable of at least 10cfm depending on the gun you use. You'll need a booth - a clean environment to paint in, because you don't want the paint contaminated. And paint guns - with different sized nozzles - to handle the primer coats, base coats, clears etc. Not to mention sanding blocks, sandpaper, respirator.
It's a lot of work, and a lot of overhead. That's why its not cheap. And I'm sure I've missed some things here.
Finally, if you do it yourself and screw it up, then it's on you. This would be money well spent if you can.
I'm going to do mine- but I've got experience in this. Not a lot, but enough to know I can do it. It's a labour of love. But- as others have stated, a Stingray is NOT a good car to learn on. Even preparing it wrong could be disastrous. That said- here's why you're being quoted thousands of dollars:
(1) Strip whatever the current paint is down to the fibreglass. This includes any bondo. I can't guarantee my work if it's applied to someone else's. If that previous repair delaminates, it will kill the paint, and I'll look bad.
(2) Repair. See point 1.
(3) Skim coat, block sand panels straight. Prep is everything.
(4) Repeat #3 until you're learning karate from Mr Miagi.
(5) Repeat #4.
(6) Sealer coat. We want this paint job to last, so the surface must be sealed.
(7) High build primer.
(8) Sand it again
(9) Repeat 7 & 8 until you're satisfied.
(10) Final primer coat.
(11) Colour coat. Assuming base/clear.
(12) Clear coat. Several coats
(13) Wet sand, Buff and Polish.
(14) Reassemble the car.
And, you've not considered the tools required... to do this right, you need a GOOD quality compressor- capable of at least 10cfm depending on the gun you use. You'll need a booth - a clean environment to paint in, because you don't want the paint contaminated. And paint guns - with different sized nozzles - to handle the primer coats, base coats, clears etc. Not to mention sanding blocks, sandpaper, respirator.
It's a lot of work, and a lot of overhead. That's why its not cheap. And I'm sure I've missed some things here.
Finally, if you do it yourself and screw it up, then it's on you. This would be money well spent if you can.
That's a really great instruction list. The Karate Kid references were fire. My dad has the needed tools, air compressor, and space for the painting and he is willing to let me use them. He has a good amount of experience painting cars. It sounds like Vettes can be real oddballs, but if he's watching over my shoulder, I wouldn't figure I'd be able to screw it up too bad. However, I guess that's just the risk and reward. It sounds like there's a lot to mull over. On the bright side, it's not like I need it painted show quality, or even within the year. Maybe I could just do some touch to cover up some of the worst of the exposed fiberglass and then get everything professionally done at a later date TBD. Does that sound pretty achievable?
Me, I would roll the dice and consider painting it yourself. Depends on where you live though. I'm going to make some assumptions so I apologize in advance. I think you are young (<20) so you are cash strapped. Maybe live out in a semi-rural area. A 77's resale value should always be a concern. I just can't drop $5K+ and expect to get that back out. I think your car is white now, so would that be the color going forward?
I have painted a car in my garage in the middle of the suburbs. It was a mess. That paint floats everywhere and I wouldn't probably do it again. Luckily the neighbors didn't complain at the smell/chemicals. I have heard many stories where the police have been called for similar events. But you know it is kinda a right of passage to learn. Add this to the list of things in life that you probably shouldn't have done but did. Not sure if you want single stage or base/clear. I did the 2 stage and it actually turned out pretty good. I did buy a good buffer and good paint so all the orange peel disappeared. With some colors you can panel paint (section at a time) others it has to be all at once. If you have done what you described in the past, I think you have the ability to tackle this also.
Maybe you don't know this, but you cannot own and repair any C3 Corvette and avoid being upside down. They simply cost to much to do proper work, and values are not high enough, especially rubber bumper cars. There will be a few exceptions, but anyone who thinks otherwise are lying or fooling themselves, or at the very extreme lucky.......don't count on it.
I'm going to do mine- but I've got experience in this. Not a lot, but enough to know I can do it. It's a labour of love. But- as others have stated, a Stingray is NOT a good car to learn on. Even preparing it wrong could be disastrous. That said- here's why you're being quoted thousands of dollars:
(1) Strip whatever the current paint is down to the fibreglass. This includes any bondo. I can't guarantee my work if it's applied to someone else's. If that previous repair delaminates, it will kill the paint, and I'll look bad.
(2) Repair. See point 1.
(3) Skim coat, block sand panels straight. Prep is everything.
(4) Repeat #3 until you're learning karate from Mr Miagi.
(5) Repeat #4.
(6) Sealer coat. We want this paint job to last, so the surface must be sealed.
(7) High build primer.
(8) Sand it again
(9) Repeat 7 & 8 until you're satisfied.
(10) Final primer coat.
(11) Colour coat. Assuming base/clear.
(12) Clear coat. Several coats
(13) Wet sand, Buff and Polish.
(14) Reassemble the car.
And, you've not considered the tools required... to do this right, you need a GOOD quality compressor- capable of at least 10cfm depending on the gun you use. You'll need a booth - a clean environment to paint in, because you don't want the paint contaminated. And paint guns - with different sized nozzles - to handle the primer coats, base coats, clears etc. Not to mention sanding blocks, sandpaper, respirator.
It's a lot of work, and a lot of overhead. That's why its not cheap. And I'm sure I've missed some things here.
Finally, if you do it yourself and screw it up, then it's on you. This would be money well spent if you can.
And THE BIGGEST ISSUE is whether or not any person can maintain motivation, and the endurance, to follow through from start to finish on a paint job, or a full restoration. It took me 4-1/2 years to do a full body off restoration, working most every weekend, and I did NOT strip and repaint the car.....that would have added a couple years for me. Its a tremendous amount of work, which I enjoyed, but its the reality of doing a good job on a complete restoration......you have to have passion for it,.......and many do not, which is why so many projects never get finished.
Sure it sounds achievable. I stripped my 72 using a razor blade, did all the repairs myself. I do have experience in fiberglass repairs, sprayed primer, blocked, primer and block again and again. Had a pro look over my work, he made a few corrections, then sprayed the finish coat in a booth to get that show car finish. It’s a lot of work, and very messy. And using quality paints cost money. So if you don’t prep it right or use incompatible materials, u could blow your budget doing it all over again. My current 65 Mustang project is going to be a home garage paint job, but for now I’m just driving it as is. I learned a lot working on the corvette, and although my paint may not be show car quality, it will be arrow straight, and I’ll use a single stage, and can wet sand out the blemishes. The prep work is what really makes the paint job. Read as much as possible, practice spraying primer, learn how to block sand correctly and take your time.
Maybe you don't know this, but you cannot own and repair any C3 Corvette and avoid being upside down. They simply cost to much to do proper work, and values are not high enough, especially rubber bumper cars. There will be a few exceptions, but anyone who thinks otherwise are lying or fooling themselves, or at the very extreme lucky.......don't count on it.
True enough. That's why the only decent rubber-bumper cars out there have either been preserved or brought back to life by DIY owners. They're just nor worth the cost of a proper paint job, let alone anything else they might need.
Maybe you don't know this, but you cannot own and repair any C3 Corvette and avoid being upside down. They simply cost to much to do proper work, and values are not high enough, especially rubber bumper cars. There will be a few exceptions, but anyone who thinks otherwise are lying or fooling themselves, or at the very extreme lucky.......don't count on it.
I've already put wayyyy more money into the car than it's worth. It's not about what other people think or the resale value that determines how I'm building the car. I'm doing it because I'm truly in love with Corvettes. This car is already a dream come true for me. I hope to get this car to look as good as it runs mechanically, but I just have to be careful about the when. My disposable income isn't very high yet, but I think with a bit of saving we'll be there soon enough.
That's a really great instruction list. The Karate Kid references were fire. My dad has the needed tools, air compressor, and space for the painting and he is willing to let me use them. He has a good amount of experience painting cars. It sounds like Vettes can be real oddballs, but if he's watching over my shoulder, I wouldn't figure I'd be able to screw it up too bad. However, I guess that's just the risk and reward. It sounds like there's a lot to mull over. On the bright side, it's not like I need it painted show quality, or even within the year. Maybe I could just do some touch to cover up some of the worst of the exposed fiberglass and then get everything professionally done at a later date TBD. Does that sound pretty achievable?
I say go for it!!!
You won't loose life or limb over it- the worst - you have a not so great paint job....
If you have the free time- a place to do it- your dad to help out- It's a no brainer!!!
BUT if you have 10K sitting around-just burning a hole in your pocket- fully funded retirement- don't have the time or willingness to spend a bunch of hours doing it -plus don't enjoy the satisfaction of saying "Yep,I did that!"
Then spend $10K -get a perfect paint job and be afraid to drive the car-
Richard
Oh - here are some good reads - "the $100 rustoluem paint job"
My body off restoration took 5 yrs, and included an out of state move, and some personal hardships that stopped me for a bit. I had 4 months of stripping and glass work, and 4 months of priming and block sanding. The painter had the car for about 5 weeks. Everyone works at different speeds, with different amounts of time to allocate to a job. I worked about 40 hrs a week on the corvette. Plus my day job of another 40+ hrs a week. Yes it takes time.
I'm going to do mine- but I've got experience in this. Not a lot, but enough to know I can do it. It's a labour of love. But- as others have stated, a Stingray is NOT a good car to learn on. Even preparing it wrong could be disastrous. That said- here's why you're being quoted thousands of dollars:
(3) Skim coat, block sand panels straight. Prep is everything.
And I'm sure I've missed some things here.
Finally, if you do it yourself and screw it up, then it's on you. This would be money well spent if you can.
An excellent post. You didn't miss much. I did my car myself and it is near show quality. It can be done by an amateur. I would add two things:
(3)a DO NOT round over any creases in the fiberglass. So easy to make this mistake and you will never get that edge back.
and
Material costs alone are big numbers. For quality PPG paint and other supplies, I added up some $3600 in materials alone. I did recoup some costs reselling the leftovers.
Are Painters Overquoting Me?
