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I have a 70 C3 removable hardtop/convertible and can't figure-out if there are some side mount bolts and some in the back of the trunk panel (four total) that hold it down and where they are or if the top just fits into the same rear pins as the convertible top and thats it?
...if the top just fits into the same rear pins as the convertible top and thats it?...
Not quite. The hard top rear mounting studs pass through the folding top decklid latches. On some model years, there is a thumb screw in the center of the rear bow which uses a ferrule on the deck lid. There are two smaller mounts at the top of each lock post just behind the seats. The front bow of the hard top has three latches the same as the folding top.
I have a 70 C3 removable hardtop/convertible and can't figure-out if there are some side mount bolts and some in the back of the trunk panel (four total) that hold it down and where they are or if the top just fits into the same rear pins as the convertible top and thats it?
The hardtop has 2 side mounted bolts that attach to the inside of the rear deck. Those are REALLY important to use. In 1970, you should be using a threaded bolt in place of the convertible rear corner pins. They thread into the hardtop rear mounts (corners), then into the top receivers ( top of rear deck) and are secured underneath with a plate and nut. At some point ( not sure) there was a 3rd center mounted rear attachment point for the hardtop ( 5 rear points total). Pretty sure that was after 1969 sometime.
Front just uses short pins like the soft top.
And to save you a yoga inspired cussfest while trying to install the nuts on the rear posts with the soft top in the way... lay the hard top into position and lift the rear deck lid to give you the clearance to tighten the nuts on the posts. You’ll need two able bodied participants. Then you can lower it back down to screw in the side bolts and front compression levers.
Depends on the car. First, there are two long threaded shafts that go through the chrome bezels (used by the soft top) located on the rear lid. Some folks (don’t ask me how) attach nuts and run them up the threaded studs, oh yes while the soft top is in there too. Second, some cars have a hole located around the middle of the rear lid. Third, on the inside of rear lid (next to the top of the pass/driver seat) there are hard top mounted brackets with rubber covers that have bolts going into special nuts. These bolts are removed with a standard Philips head screw driver. My 73 vinyl covered hardtop has the long threaded shafts, and brackets inside of rear lid. I don't see how it’s possible to get nuts on the threaded shafts. I purchased a kit with a electric ceiling mounted winch and pole/harness to remove my top. I think it took me less than two minutes to put a couple of scratches on the rear deck from the thread shafts. After scratching the rear lid, I came up with a solution to keep future scratches from occurring. If you are going to employ a winch system, let me know and I will post pictures of my scratch preventer.
Depends on the car. First, there are two long threaded shafts that go through the chrome bezels (used by the soft top) located on the rear lid. Some folks (don’t ask me how) attach nuts and run them up the threaded studs, oh yes while the soft top is in there too. Second, some cars have a hole located around the middle of the rear lid. Third, on the inside of rear lid (next to the top of the pass/driver seat) there are hard top mounted brackets with rubber covers that have bolts going into special nuts. These bolts are removed with a standard Philips head screw driver. My 73 vinyl covered hardtop has the long threaded shafts, and brackets inside of rear lid. I don't see how it’s possible to get nuts on the threaded shafts. I purchased a kit with a electric ceiling mounted winch and pole/harness to remove my top. I think it took me less than two minutes to put a couple of scratches on the rear deck from the thread shafts. After scratching the rear lid, I came up with a solution to keep future scratches from occurring. If you are going to employ a winch system, let me know and I will post pictures of my scratch preventer.
Actually, the correct bolts that go through the brackets with the vinyl covers are hex head (1/2” wrench”) with a domed and flanged head. You can’t remove or tighten those correct ones with a phillips screwdriver. They are available from most vendors, and fit 1956-1975. GM never changed those.
Sorry, I haven’t put the top on in 7 or 8 months, you are correct, I have a nut driver that I bought to keep in the tube holder with the bolts., so I don’t loose them. Thanks
I know this is an old thread but I found a partial quick install trick. I bought a set of Convertible top pins and replaced the long threaded studs with these, You will need to trim the threaded end back about .325" and then it is a trial and error fine tune adjustment so that the catch the convertible latch very tight. You want to have to push down on the roof to get them to latch but still loose enough that the latch will release when it is time to remove the top. The remaining problem is that center securing bolt which requires a nut which you can't get to with the convertible top in place. So to fill the approximate 1/32" gap from the weather striping (mine weather stripping is brand new) to the deck lid in the center I have purchased some weather striping that has a bubble to it. My plan is to add this just before the factory weather stripping to seal up the gap.