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Why does this never fit?

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Old Nov 1, 2020 | 04:41 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by FuriousFred
Had the exakt Same Issue,

new dashpad, original Instrument bezel.
After a reasonably long „fight„ i figured out
that a 5 mm rubber strip between the bezel
and the console would do two things:
-Lifting up the bezel giving more wiggleroom for the upper edge
​​​​​​ (sounds counterintuitve but really works).
-insulating two vibration/rattle prone components.
With my black interior nearly invisible/stock looking

Strip:



Upper alignement (Not the best pic, you ´ ll have to zoom or believe me that the upper edge sits near perfect &#128513




Hope this helps
Freddy
Excellent move......see, this was my point, you just have to NOT be satisfied till the fit is right. Its just a mechanical object fixed to another mechanical object.
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Old Nov 1, 2020 | 06:49 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by FuriousFred
Had the exact same Issue,

new dashpad, original Instrument bezel.
After a reasonably long „fight„ i figured out
that a 5 mm rubber strip between the Bezel
and the console would do two things:
-Lifting up the bezel giving more wiggleroom for the upper edge
​​​​​​ (sounds counterintuitve but really works).
-insulating two vibration/rattle prone components.
With my black interior nearly invisible/stock looking

Strip:



Upper alignement (Not the best pic, you ´ ll have to zoom or believe me that the upper edge sits near perfect &#128513




Hope this helps
Freddy
This makes me want a black interior
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Old Nov 1, 2020 | 08:09 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by FuriousFred
So it's a 5mm piece of foam insulation or something?

Also, who makes that steering wheel? Love it.
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Old Nov 1, 2020 | 09:20 AM
  #24  
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Just a strip of good old rubber,

if you look at the OP pic you can see that the bezel needs to go up a little
and tilt back a little, the strip does / allows both motions and eliminates a
rattle source i had located there. Amongst all the Others😂

The Steering Wheel came from Corvette Central 14‘ Black and brushed Spokes,
having PS there are only positives ( apart from Originality)
Easier Ingress(?), More direct Feel, Bolt on and no Problems with Indicator Stock


Best Regards
Freddy

Last edited by FuriousFred; Nov 1, 2020 at 09:21 AM. Reason: Grammar
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Old Nov 1, 2020 | 12:49 PM
  #25  
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I bought my 68 coupe when it was four years old. First thing to break was the clock quit. I had bought a GM 68 shop manual and nothing in it says to be careful of breaking the bezel. The only safe way to remove the gauge bezel is to remove the passenger side dash pad first.
I snapped my 68 only smooth faced bezel. I later bought a 69 shop manual and it has in bold letters to be careful of snapping the bezel! And this is the dumbest part, GM claimed that it was made that way to break in an impact! First of all the four side screws and the two lower studs are not going to budge if you somehow get your knee up that high in an accident! I wonder how many bezels got broken by GM service people back in the day? I tried to order a new 68 bezel when my car was roughly 4 1/2 years old and they were unavailable already. Lou.
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Old Nov 1, 2020 | 03:00 PM
  #26  
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i repaired mine with small slivers of washer that i JB welded into small slits I cut into the breaks. The last time it snapped I added long pieces of aluminum onto the outside that are about an inch wide and about 1/16th thick. it bridges the big open area where the upper wiper switch cover goes so you cant see it. That really stiffened it up


Last edited by Rescue Rogers; Nov 1, 2020 at 03:08 PM.
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Old Nov 1, 2020 | 08:25 PM
  #27  
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I repaired mine with jb weld..I groud the area in a feathered fashion and filled it with jb weld to give it something to grab and hold without making the repair area oversized.. actually it was one of a lot of broken ones I bought on ebay that werent cut up for an aftermarket stereo like the one in my car was when I bought it.

Last edited by augiedoggy; Nov 1, 2020 at 08:26 PM.
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