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Just one refinement on this procedure - The bolt on each end of the differential crossmember should be loosened and and turned out about 1/4 inch but not removed while you pry the crossmember loose at each end. This will hold everything in place on the jack. When both sides pop free then remove the 2 bolts and lower it down.
Excellent safety advice here. Removed more of these than I care to remember and the first one I did not do this. Fortunately my feet were nowhere near it but you do not want 100+ pounds of iron falling to the floor. It will squash anything in its way. It will not balance well on your floor jack. When it finally pops it goes all awry quickly. Support it with the bolts as said above. Safety first!
Excellent safety advice here. Removed more of these than I care to remember and the first one I did not do this. Fortunately my feet were nowhere near it but you do not want 100+ pounds of iron falling to the floor. It will squash anything in its way. It will not balance well on your floor jack. When it finally pops it goes all awry quickly. Support it with the bolts as said above. Safety first!
great advice guys. I really appreciate it.
so if the cross member has to be pried off, is there a gasget or pad that has to be replaced ?
From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
Not necessarily.
The procedure I provided was not all encompassing and safety procedures need to be applied. I did what BK added to the procedure but I did use a hydraulic floor jack with a flat rubber pad to lower the assembly to the ground as well as raise it back up again. It didn't fall off the jack but I did take my time doing it. I guess it depends on what level of safety one is comfortable with.
Last edited by resdoggie; Oct 31, 2020 at 05:23 PM.
great advice guys. I really appreciate it.
so if the cross member has to be pried off, is there a gasket or pad that has to be replaced ?
There IS a gasket that goes between the rear cover and the body of the differential. That will have to be replaced, and it would be a good time to put fresh gear oil in the diff.. (don't forget the Posi additive)
Since it sounds like you will be working on you car more. I suggest you purchase the AIM (Assembly Instruction Manual) and the shop service manual for your year. Not a Hayes, the GM manual. Also, when you replace the spring and are torquing the center mounting plate bolts, make sure there is weight on the suspension. Otherwise you will bend the plate. Been there, done that. The vendors will be more than happy to sell you another one. You might want to put your location in you profile, there may be a member near you that can help you out. Good luck.
so I finally got the last spring plate bolt out and cleaned things up. Seems the pass diff seal had been leaking and left gunk on that side.
Here’s my question. I don’t know if the leaf spring from Eckler’s is not right or I am installing it wrong. This is just a test to see how it would go since I am have new diff cover and parts coming. I did loosely bolt the spring to the diff with the two bolts as there is at least 3/4 of the the diff mount support left to secure to. But the ends do not line up to the end bolts. I do have the vette on jack stands with the wheels hanging. I did jack up one wheel and that allowed me to install the bolt and cushions on that side. But the other side is still over an inch off from going in the spring hole even jacking up the wheel. So I am wondering if this is a part not made correctly to connect to the end bolts. OR if I am doing something wrong ?? I have called Eckler’s and someone is to get back to me. (Not holding my breath). TIA