Hey all,
I know this topic has been beat to death but still looking for input.
I have a 1969 convertible with a 350 300 hp out of a 1970 Camaro. Not numbers matching but period correct so I am fine with that. It does have the original Muncie M20 4 speed.
Power steering, power brakes, no AC. The car is in good overall condition with little to no rust and minimal body damage and almost all original parts and trim.
Basically the previous "restoration" is a **** show so I am restoring the whole thing, which is what I wanted when I bought it.
The previous owner started some upgrades to the engine but never finished. Upgraded aluminum heads & internals, Ebelbrock intake, etc. NO carb.
I am pulling the body off the frame in the next few weeks and have already stripped the car and pulled out a lot of the interior. I am under no delusions of time spent and that will be spent & cost.
I am getting quotes of about $1500 $2500 to rebuild the engine ending up in the 375 - 400 h p range when completed plus installing the Holley or FiTech EFI systems. I would like to keep the existing engine if possible at a cost of around $4000 vs buying a new one for around $5500 -$7000. I know what common sense says - replace - but would like some input on what others have done and if the add-on EFI systems are more of a hassle than it's worth.
Any feedback would be great. THX.

 

https://blueprintengines.com/product...dy-bp3503ctc1d


lot less than 5-7k, similar numbers hp/tq, warranty, roller cam, etc....

 

It all comes down to the reputation of the engine builder. Guys on this forum speak very highly of Blueprint engines. I would recommend avoiding GM crate engines at least until they stop manufacturing them in Mexico. I have seen at least six failures, and getting warranty coverage can be a hassle if the engine was not installed by a GM dealer. If your local machine shop/engine builder has a good reputation amongst the local hot rod community, that is also a good choice.

 

Common sense does say “just replace it”. You’re weighing your options and that’s a good thing. I’m one of those guys that will rebuild a motor when possible, but that’s because I love to know all the little details etc plus I like to build them. I’m a little nutty like that so I would likely rebuild regardless of the cost.

With that said... When you say $1500-$2500 for a rebuild what exactly are they doing? $1500 won’t go far at most machine shops today. If they get inside and find the pistons are worn you’ll need pistons and rings and we’re talking $500 roughly. Then you should be rebalancing the whole deal and that’s $250 or so. Figure labor is $100 an hour and you can see that $1500 is basically a tear down and inspection with he replacement of the existing rings, bearings, and MISC gaskets provided everything specs out if they are building it. We haven’t event talked about the camshaft, oil pump, and the heads if something is needed there.

Also you will have $1000-$2000 just in the fuel injection kit and all the parts and pieces and that is assuming you do all the labor. You’ll also need a different intake manifold most likely. If you currently have a dual plane you’ll most likely need to swap for a single plane. The reversion in dual plane intakes that is so critical for low speed carb signaling often can mess with fuel injection.

I don’t want to discourage you from rebuilding the motor but I do believe $1500 is really low. $2500 is more realistic provided there are no huge surprises.

Also crate motors aren’t the holly grail either. Yeah you can get a turnkey runner in that 400 hp range for $5500 or so. But that motor is not built to take any additional power on top IE nitrous etc. That price point gets you factory style 5.7 rods and hypereutectic pistons. I looked and I saw no mention of ARP hardware so I assume it’s stockish hardware. https://blueprintengines.com/product...on-bp35513ctf1

So let’s be clear. I’m not saying crate motors are junk. Quite the contrary, they are excellent for the guy that wants a turn key solution with a warranty that he plans to just drive. IE they are built with a performance number in mind and how do we do it as cheaply as possible. When we start the comparing the SAME components though a motor with GOOD local builders with the crate engine folks you would find they will line up pretty closely price wise except the warranty.

I know this is kinda a ramble but those are my thoughts.

 

Personal preference, but I would vote rebuild/build the engine you have. When you build off what you have, the parts catalog is wide open and you can do whatever you want.

 

Scan Craigslist to see if there are any crate engines that never got installed into stalled projects. I like Kossuth's thoughts above. If you can get the existing motor running that would help determine my thoughts. If the PO did what you indicated, then they seemed to think the shortblock was ok.

 

Thanks for the input. I think my plan will be to take the existing 350 in and see what all has been changed/upgraded and what I can expect as an outcome, both performance and cost. The advantage I have from a cost standpoint is that the engine is missing both a carb. & distributor and has a Victor Jr. intake on it now. I have been doing research on the after market fuel injection systems and I am sold on the Edelbrock Pro Flo 4.
I am replacing all fuel lines and will probably by a new FI ready gas tank.
That system comes complete with the new manifold so I could just dump the old for a few bucks.
The comparable drop -in 350 @ 373 hp from Blueprint will run me just over $5100 delivered to PHX. with the basic 550-510 Holley Sniper installed & dyno'ed. That at least gives me a comparable price point.
Body will come off in a bout 2 weeks and I'll go from there!

Thx again!

 

IF... you can find a good engine builder near you... it makes more sense to rebuild. That is IF your block is good. If it can go .030" over or less (preferably less), then fine. If you need more, then i'd go with a crate. Thing is with crates, you get deals because the vendors do volume, but you're still paying for things you dont need. You dont need a new block (if yours is thin, find a used one for a couple hundred). You DO need new heads, if you want any sort ov performance. You likely dont need a new crank. Even cast cranks are good for more power than 90% ov users end up with. You dont need a 383 stroker to make 400HP either. Soooo many people out there trying to spend your money... My philosophy is that if you have money and aren't particular in how things are done, buy new. If you're like me and have extremely specific tastes, you'll never find a crate that will fit. I'd build.