Exploder rivets
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 961
Likes: 275
From: Frederick MD
Exploder rivets
I am about done fixing the floor on the drivers side. Unfortunately I have to put all new insulation clips on the entire car because the jackass that owned the car before my younger brother just ripped the underside insulation off and cut tabs etc. It's a mess. I have the new clips and such but looking for a way to elevate any future pain and misery. In short I dont want to:
1. Remove the remaining insulation, seat, and so on to install the new aluminum rivets the OE way. Everytime I look into something on this car I end up finding something else that's screwed up.
2. Enlist my wife or oldest daughter to help me peen the new rivets over. (Will be an epic bitchfest).
My oldest brother whom is an autobody guy and also works on dirt late models on the weekend turned me onto these things. Looks like it would work but wanted to see if anybody has used these on fiberglass. They work kinda like a pop rivet but curl over on the backside pulling against kinda like a toggle bolt. They use these things to attach the nose pieces to the front of a dirt late model so I'm certain they are plenty strong. Thoughts?
https://behrents.com/parts/bsc-90030...kaAqheEALw_wcB
1. Remove the remaining insulation, seat, and so on to install the new aluminum rivets the OE way. Everytime I look into something on this car I end up finding something else that's screwed up.
2. Enlist my wife or oldest daughter to help me peen the new rivets over. (Will be an epic bitchfest).
My oldest brother whom is an autobody guy and also works on dirt late models on the weekend turned me onto these things. Looks like it would work but wanted to see if anybody has used these on fiberglass. They work kinda like a pop rivet but curl over on the backside pulling against kinda like a toggle bolt. They use these things to attach the nose pieces to the front of a dirt late model so I'm certain they are plenty strong. Thoughts?
https://behrents.com/parts/bsc-90030...kaAqheEALw_wcB
Last edited by kossuth; Nov 8, 2020 at 05:54 PM.
1967 Pedal Car Champion
Joined: Mar 2020
Posts: 9,140
Likes: 4,248
From: US-PNW
I used aluminum pop rivets, back up washers, and some JB epoxy to hold everything in place long enough to go back an forth between the interior and underneath to the interior again. Once the jute and carpet are over top, the slight bump from the rivets is undetectable.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 15,344
Likes: 4,009
From: Texas
Just tossing these out as another alternative...
General Purpose Split-Type Rivets For GM 11516807
Available on Amazon for ~$20 for 25 of them
GM uses these to attach the front splitters and side skirts on the C6 ZR1, C7 GS, Z06, and ZR1. They have a larger head than standard rivets. No idea if this will work, just happened to be cruising the C3 section since years ago I had a '78 and an '80 and saw the thread
General Purpose Split-Type Rivets For GM 11516807
Available on Amazon for ~$20 for 25 of them
GM uses these to attach the front splitters and side skirts on the C6 ZR1, C7 GS, Z06, and ZR1. They have a larger head than standard rivets. No idea if this will work, just happened to be cruising the C3 section since years ago I had a '78 and an '80 and saw the thread
Last edited by 96GS#007; Nov 8, 2020 at 09:51 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 3,753
Likes: 721
From: Lafayette Louisiana
Me, just added tunnel insulation to my 68 project with original L79 and Muncie. And I used ss screws/nuts with fender washers to secure the insulation. Better than the original fold over tabs, under the carpet on top and wow you would almost have to pull the engine to see on the bottom. I would have been the only person to ever know, except of course, I am now telling the Corvette Forum, ha! You can likely just pull the carpet back enough to get access to the ss screw or nut on the inside. Hope this helps.
Last edited by 20mercury; Nov 9, 2020 at 12:46 AM.
