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So I need to replace the windshield post trim weatherstripping on both driver and passenger side, it's basically crumbling away. While doing this, I noticed some surface rust on the birdcage post on the passenger side and would like to get this fixed
before I continue. So I have removed the weatherstripping and the chrome trim that holds the moulding in, and have scraped the adhesive off, but I'm concerned about removing the trim piece that covers the birdcage pillar post.
The white area in the top photo is where I see some surface rust - most likely there is some more hiding out and I would like to get this fixed now. What is the best way to removing this trim piece
without bending it?
From the AIM, it appears that these trim pieces are glued to the birdcage pillar posts? Is there a easy way to remove this chrome trim piece from the birdcage pillar post without bending it?
So I also want to remove the windshield top chrome moulding and interior post pieces. The interior pieces came off pretty easy, but even after taking out the 4 top screws, it appears the top chrome strip (for a convertible) I would assume is stuck on with seam sealer?
Interestingly, the interior side windshield post pieces have both screws and velcro holding them on. Has anyone recently tacked this?
For anyone that has to remove the trim from around the windshield, the side trim is just seam sealed into place. I was able to carefully pry it from the birdcage post uprights using a large flat screwdriver and sliding it between the upright chrome trim and the birdcage post upright. Unfortunately, after I removed the center interior pieces, I discovered some surface rust that needs to be repaired, so it looks like the windshield will have to be removed.
Uprights were not too bad at all for 50 years, but...
The center of the windshield frame had some corrosion near the windshield piece, although there was not rust through and the frame felt solid.
So I guess I'll have to have the windshield removed and fix this up.
That choice is up to you....depending on how significant you find that amount of rusting. (surface rust? swiss cheese?) If it were my car, I probably would not pull the windshield to repair it unless I spotted some serious rust OR water easily came into the interior in a modest rain or when the car was washed. If the windshield was still sealed fairly well, I wouldn't be messing around with it.
glad I pulled mine out about a year ago. much easier to repair the frame with it out. AND I found the glass was never sealed properly at the top center. FOUND the bloody leak!
and I was able to get my frame properly cleaned up, repaired light rust I found under the glass.
do it right the first time. pull the glass !
That choice is up to you....depending on how significant you find that amount of rusting. (surface rust? swiss cheese?) If it were my car, I probably would not pull the windshield to repair it unless I spotted some serious rust OR water easily came into the interior in a modest rain or when the car was washed. If the windshield was still sealed fairly well, I wouldn't be messing around with it.
Looking at the sealant put on the top, I would assume the PO must have had some leakage. Since I have never had the car out in the rain yet, I don't know the extent of the leakage. The rust is surface at this point, but I do want to fix it while I have the chance to do so. On top of that, the end caps on the top of the windshield need to be re-chromed as there is some pitting here and there, and the last screw that holds those caps on is hidden in the front near the glass. I don't think I can get those screws out without breaking the glass since they are literally 1/8 to 1/4 inch away from the windshield edge. I contacted a Corvette guy nearby who will provide someone who did his windshield pull several years ago.
Removed the wiper door assembly so I could better get to the windshield. Local Corvette people around here have told me that cracking the windshield is very likely since the factory sealant gets very tough and is very hard to cut even with a piano wire cutter. Probably would not be the worse thing as the windshield has some wiper scratches in it over the years. On top of that, I have heard that the windshield will delaminate many times when they are older than 45-50 years, so maybe it's time for a nee one anyway. My question is the finish on the fiberglass "floor" or the wiper door box. The following pics were taken after the wiper door mechanism was taken out, and you can see there was white overspray present on the bottom of the fiberglass "box". It also appears as if the overspray paint is cracking and peeling as well..
My question - what color or finish would be correct for the car in this area?
I recently pulled a windshield off an 81 coupe...it is a parts car...to replace my 82 cracked windshield. The note of caution about cutting the sealant around the windshield-be patient. We were very careful using the Harbor freight piano wire tool. We started by pushing the starter hole tool provided with the kit from inside the car on the drivers side pillar about half way up then attached the wire to the holders and carefully did the sawing around the windshield. Do not let the piano wire saw on the glass or it will break the glass. The corners are the critical go slow spots especially the lowers as the wire needs guidance to keep it away from the glass. Once we got the sealant cut we pushed out from the inside top and lifted it off the car. Cleaned the old sealant off the windshield with a razor blade and acetone. We are at the point of pulling the cracked one off the 82 now with a 81 replacement waiting to install. Good luck!
I recently pulled a windshield off an 81 coupe...it is a parts car...to replace my 82 cracked windshield. The note of caution about cutting the sealant around the windshield-be patient. We were very careful using the Harbor freight piano wire tool. We started by pushing the starter hole tool provided with the kit from inside the car on the drivers side pillar about half way up then attached the wire to the holders and carefully did the sawing around the windshield. Do not let the piano wire saw on the glass or it will break the glass. The corners are the critical go slow spots especially the lowers as the wire needs guidance to keep it away from the glass. Once we got the sealant cut we pushed out from the inside top and lifted it off the car. Cleaned the old sealant off the windshield with a razor blade and acetone. We are at the point of pulling the cracked one off the 82 now with a 81 replacement waiting to install. Good luck!
Did you have the top pillar chrome pieces (each side) removed when you did the windshield? I can't see a way of getting that last screw out (the one under and facing the windshield) out without cracking the glass. Without that corner trim removed, it appears to be a much more difficult
time of removing the windshield..
This cover is on the drivers side in the front of the wiper door box. I looked in the AIM but could not find it. It has seen better days - is it OK to take this out to clean it up?
Yes, chrome trim all removed first. A couple screw heads were damaged, but we managed to get them out...maybe try a side cutter pliers to grab the head.
As far as my understanding is, you cannot access the screws that hold the chrome end caps without first removing the windshield. I cannot verify this firsthand but that's what I was told. Ike
my chrome end caps needed restoration/ Rechroming as well. there are 2 screws in each one facing forward. out came my glass. and as I stated above. glad I did. repaired rust I didn't even know I had before. had my upper corners repaired and rechromed. and in went new glass. the glass is cheap. all the things you need to replace around it add up.
and when I installed those upper corners. I tossed the Phillips head screws and put in hex head sheet metal screws. if I live long enough to have to remove them again. I can now get them out with the glass in.
my chrome end caps needed restoration/ Rechroming as well. there are 2 screws in each one facing forward. out came my glass. and as I stated above. glad I did. repaired rust I didn't even know I had before. had my upper corners repaired and rechromed. and in went new glass. the glass is cheap. all the things you need to replace around it add up.
and when I installed those upper corners. I tossed the Phillips head screws and put in hex head sheet metal screws. if I live long enough to have to remove them again. I can now get them out with the glass in.
I've got 3 of the 4 screws out, of course the last one is buried deep and will take some time to work free. I'd really like to ask the engineer why they designed it a way to make windshield removal so difficult...
As far as my understanding is, you cannot access the screws that hold the chrome end caps without first removing the windshield. I cannot verify this firsthand but that's what I was told. Ike
It may vary from car to car depending on how high the glass sits. Same is true for the header trim screws and the top glass trim clips. I tried it but ended up cracking the windshield - which was already badly pitted. It gave me the opportunity to clean up the frame, recoat it, and put in new glass.
I like 4-vettes idea of using hex screws as replacements if you aren't concerned about originality. I used stainless steel screws.
Well I got all 4 screws out, so it's possible to do it without removing the windshield, but it is certainly not easy. Tons of PB-Blast and several pinched fingers, and lots of patience pay off. So far, it looks like I have a bit of corrosion repair ahead of me. You can clearly see where
water was leaking into the center of the upper windshield frame, probably was the reason the POs had extra caulking up top. The sides are not bad at all, nor is the place where the windshield frame meets the birdcage. The corrosion appears to be mostly surface and the metal appears strong when I tap on it, but if there is bad areas when I remove the windshield I guess I'll have to get a welder out.
Do you have pictures of the screws before, or while, you were removing them?
Not clear ones - sorry. I can tell you that the difficult part about extracting them isn't that they are only about 1/2 inch from the windshield edge, it is that the center of the screws is lower than the windshield top itself. Thus, you cannot use a phillips screwdriver on them effectively without cracking the windshield edge. What I did was use short arm needle nose pliers to turn the screws from the top after soaking them in PB-Blaster for a few days.
Windshield Post Trim Removal/Assembly
