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What is she worth?

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Old Dec 9, 2020 | 09:57 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by vettebuyer6369
If you decide to report the details of this transaction, you certainly have a right to do so, but as far as the forum is concerned, the one and only place to start and maintain that thread would be in the Transactions Feedback section. Place a factual thread there and not in other places on the site in addition.

Of course you can post wherever you want outside the site.
Thanks for the tip. Will do.
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Old Dec 9, 2020 | 11:00 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Hammerhead Fred
Here it is on the registry posted @5 years ago.
Looks like it needs some help.
Those 2 engine photos sure look different on the C3 Registry. I wonder which one the OP has?






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Old Dec 9, 2020 | 11:08 AM
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OP: I'm so sorry you've ended up in this situation. Integrity is sometimes in short order when it comes to selling cars, etc. That said, you're getting good advice on this forum. Good people here.

IMO, you don't want to throw good money after bad. It's not that this are is awful or can't be restored, but if it's not something you want (or can't) tackle, then you'll likely be better off selling it honestly and cutting your losses. C3s are great cars, but you need to do some homework before buying. Sometimes life throws us hard lessons - take a deep breath, learn from this, and keep being the upfront and honest person you appear to be. If the seller won't help and they're in the car business, by all means let us know. Report them to the BBB, etc. And then move on.

I would suggest two things: watch the video below; and never buy a C3 sight unseen. If you're thinking of buying a C3 that is not close enough that you can personally inspect, there are services that will do so for a reasonable fee. And I also think you'll find the good members of this forum will be willing to go inspect it for you if they're close.

Don't let this one spoil the fun of the hobby. In the end, you'll be fine and your integrity will remain intact. Best, Paul

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Old Dec 9, 2020 | 11:14 AM
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The engine bay looks like the 2nd photo.

Hard lumps.

I talked to the seller via text this morning. They don't want to discuss anything via text or e-mail. They said if I can't call they don't want to talk to me. I wonder if they'll feel the same if I call them and tell them I'm recording the conversation?

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Old Dec 9, 2020 | 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by tknospdr
So the people I bought it from did not just embellish (as I'm sure most do who are trying to sell a car), but they flat out lied about pretty much every aspect of this car.
They own a business but I of course signed a document stating I was buying the car AS IS, so I assume I have no recourse.
I'm going to reach out to them and see if they offer me any relief, but if not I will start a new thread that lists everything they told me about the car that ended up being false. I'll list their names and contact info to make sure nobody else gets ripped off by them. And I'll post it everywhere I can.

I feel like I'm a pretty honest person and I think I tend to suffer for it as I expect everyone else to be the same...

Happens to everyone, this is the real world we live in. I got ripped off by a scam website selling auto parts just a couple of days ago and now fighting with paypal (good luck, ha!). And I like to think I am pretty savvy, hmmm.... But, it will never change my core beliefs of being honest and straightforward in transactions. Me? I suggest you keep it and fix the problems yourself. I did not know what a trailing arm was 10 years ago and now I own the tools to do my next one. Great fun working on C3's and wish I had bought one a longtime ago. At least your C3 is running and driveable so you are ahead of me!
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Old Dec 9, 2020 | 12:06 PM
  #26  
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Hey 20Mercury, good message, you also make me smile as I've become 'intimately acquainted' with a couple of C3s too - and will be doing trailing arms this winter. They might not really need it, but it will look a lot better and I have a small rear diff leak so I'll have that rebuilt too. And 'while I'm in there................................... .............'

BTW, my wife had a deal go bad that was thru paypal. Long story short: it was a product that was shipped from a US distributor and the product wasn't what they said it was. They wanted her to return it, at our expense, to China. That cost as much as the dumb product. It wasn't about the money, for my wife it was the principle. She got her money back from the seller and paypal reimbursed her for the cost of shipping. We were impressed. Good luck, Paul
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Old Dec 9, 2020 | 01:32 PM
  #27  
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It's a nice looking car and certainly has some value being a convertible with a big block and ac. As is the case with these cars you really have to dig deep to understand the extent and cost of repairs required to either make it a nice driver or a high end restoration. The costs add up quick.
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Old Dec 9, 2020 | 02:10 PM
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Thanks for all the info.
To be fair, wanting a daily driver the cosmetic stuff is of no consequence to me. If it was perfect I'd be too worried about road debris to enjoy driving it.
I was told that it was a solid car with no rust and in good working condition and that's what I expected.
I figured several thousand bucks to bring it to DD status but dayum!

If there's anyone in FL that is interested in maybe helping to get the car to where I can just drive it in any weather till the wheels fall off please feel free to PM me.
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Old Dec 9, 2020 | 02:29 PM
  #29  
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I remember this car from the other thread about the non original motor.

the only current pics I see are very close up of the windshield and roof, and wheel well.

Pics from registry are obviously older and may not reflect current condition.

I agree with others that the labor rate from this shop will bury you alive if you plan on keeping this car and never personally turning a wrench.

I would not let this shop do any of this work. I’m sure they are competent, but that’s a lot of dough to part with for very limited gain.

Depending on the overall condition, I may consider unloading it, but now that you know everything wrong with it, you may find it morally objectionable to attempt to sell it without disclosing what you now know... and find it difficult to collect what you have spent.

show us more pics of the body of the car.




Last edited by Big Block Dave; Dec 9, 2020 at 02:30 PM.
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Old Dec 9, 2020 | 02:45 PM
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"get the car to where I can just drive it in any weather"

My experience: all of my C3's leaked despite new weather strip etc, etc..... I always leave the floor plugs out underneath the carpet so the water will drain out. And gluing in carpet is a big no-no at my shop. I sorta view the all weather proposition for C3's as somewhere between riding on a Harley in the rain and a modern auto in the rain. Making the right comparisons is the secret to a happy life and C3's are better by far than the Harley. Even though, I would have really liked having a C3 as a daily driver, but remember this is a +/-50yr auto so it is good to have lots of friends.

All the best with whatever you decide!
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Old Dec 9, 2020 | 02:47 PM
  #31  
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The original sweep second hand clock is less than a minute off since I set it on Nov 25th, that's got to be worth a few thousand, right???









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Old Dec 9, 2020 | 02:57 PM
  #32  
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Default Wow, nice looking Corvette!

Wow, nice looking Corvette! I like it.

And the clock works??? no way,......ha!

Another thought for you, I would get somebody C3 knowledgeable in your area, Corvette Club member, NCRS members etc. and offer to pay them to come check it out for you and identify the big "gotta do's",. Like they say, first make it safe, then make it go, then last make it look nice (you are far along with nice). This is if you decide to keep it. If you decide to bail out, list it here for sale and maybe on ebay too with straight up, honest what you know. Somebody will buy it for the right price.

Last edited by 20mercury; Dec 9, 2020 at 03:02 PM.
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Old Dec 9, 2020 | 02:59 PM
  #33  
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The car photographs very well. Based on some of the blemishes in the closeup shots, I’m guessing this car is a “10 footer”.

Does the car steer, brake, and drive properly?

If so, just drive it... see if you like it. See what you don’t like..

if you want to invest in it, pull out the rear diff and have it rebuilt, then reinstall. You’ll still be ahead dollarwise vs having that shop change the cover and change pinion seal.

chip away at these things yourself and you’ll save a ton of money.

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Old Dec 9, 2020 | 03:54 PM
  #34  
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Default cost?

Originally Posted by Easy Mike
What did you pay for it?
OP,
serious question , what did you pay for it?
If you really want to know if you got ripped off, what did you pay?
We will be honest on the forum and tell you what we think..
If i had to guess you paid 12k then id say that's a good deal..don't sweat the small stuff.
If you paid upwards and or over say...18k ouch
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Old Dec 9, 2020 | 03:59 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by tknospdr
The engine bay looks like the 2nd photo.

Hard lumps.
I talked to the seller via text this morning. They don't want to discuss anything via text or e-mail. They said if I can't call they don't want to talk to me. I wonder if they'll feel the same if I call them and tell them I'm recording the conversation?

Looks a lot better than the first photo. Your thread caught my attention since we have the same car, mine is a 55K mile numbers matching LS5 Convertible, but the paint is 50 years old. I was looking for a price/value comparison.
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Old Dec 9, 2020 | 04:06 PM
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There's a bit of wander in the steering, but nothing like some old trucks I've driven. Otherwise it seems to go and stop alright.
One of the belts squeals above 1500RPMs. I gotta get that taken care of before it drives me insane. Not sure what it is though.
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Old Dec 9, 2020 | 04:08 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by tknospdr
There's a bit of wander in the steering, but nothing like some old trucks I've driven. Otherwise it seems to go and stop alright.
One of the belts squeals above 1500RPMs. I gotta get that taken care of before it drives me insane. Not sure what it is though.
Look to see if you have the crank to water pump belt installed along with the idler pulley (came on LS5's with AC).
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Old Dec 9, 2020 | 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by tknospdr
There's a bit of wander in the steering, but nothing like some old trucks I've driven. Otherwise it seems to go and stop alright.
One of the belts squeals above 1500RPMs. I gotta get that taken care of before it drives me insane. Not sure what it is though.

Chances are its the waterpump/crank/ power steering belt. Try tightening first. If no dice, try a new belt. Plenty of poorly aligned power steering pumps out there (I have one of them) can also add to this issue.


So what did you pay for the car?
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Old Dec 9, 2020 | 06:10 PM
  #39  
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Buy the best and forget the rest!
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Old Dec 9, 2020 | 09:04 PM
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The seller wants no written record Incase you take legal action... but that’s probibly obvious. I am not sure on your states regarding but even writing “as is” will not cover people who lie and mislead you. All on the direction you want to go.

that shops quote is crazy to me but I do my own work. I would find another person to do the work and get a second opinion.

did the shop mention the birdcage or any rust issues?

I have no opinion on them other then I could not afford that. I would hope an honest shop would bring up any structural issues or major issues that would be worth noting before dropping that much on a repair bill.
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