Just to say the fiberoptics especially for Dave's car - would be the best.

Using a circuit on each bulb filament- just on the back of the car would add up quick- four bulbs with two circuits each- four halos plus the license plate light ( that is a very important light- don't ask me how I know!!!)
you end up with 13 circuits- then the reverse lights - so 14!!!

The fiber optics- one fiber cable run can read parking light (halo)- brake and turn- so you cut the number to 1/2. The fiber-optic can also let you know by the intensity of the light - so the bulb might work -but be barely lit.


One thing that I do use LED's for diagnosing is- LED fuses- no extra wiring and is a big help when looking under the dash. Lights up when blown.




I have a blown fuse in a circuit with the fuel pump shut off inertia switch- if the switch is tripped- the LED tells me what is wrong.

 

Thanks all for your input. I wish I was in better understanding, however as it relates to a fiber optic solution, if I have separate incandescent bulbs for the brake/ turn signals, and LED rings for taillights. How would a fiber optic solution be able to determine which bulb set might be out. As I understand how the system works, illumination is transferred to the console. If the LEDs taillights are providing illumination, how would the system recognize that the brake light might be out? Ideally I would like to have illumination at the console if there was a light out. Would there be a circuit that might work? Thanks much... big much

 

Doorgunner thank you for your response. I can understand that logic. Can I please request of you a diagram of how you would wire the relays into such circuits and diodes? Much appreciated!

 

Appreciate the offer of a circuit. As was previously indicated, how would a fiber optic solution as original be able to determine if one of the light group is out? IE if brake light is out, but LED is on, how would it know the difference? Additionally, again it would be more advantageous to have an LED indicate a light out as opposed to a light on as original. A non starter for a fiber optic solution as I understand.
Your thoughts?

 

It's really quite a simple system. As you said when the lights are on the FO picks up the light and transmits them to the console. Here is a picture of the tail light housing. There is one for each brake/tail light, one for the LP light, One for front parking lamps, each side and one for low beams and high beams each side. The connections are all pretty much the same.




That's why I say it would probably be better/easier to just source all the original parts. Holes can be drilled into the housing to make it all work. The most expensive piece would be the center console shift plate as the FO's are located at the back of it so the whole shift plate would need to be replaced unless you drill holes in your current plate and retrofit the FO into it.
Some think I'm crazy but the FO and the wiper door are why I wanted a '71 and below. To me that **** is just cool.

 

Doorgunner thank you for your reply.At the risk of going to the well too often, could you please provide a little more detail/diagram for this. I understand separate chassis ground and splicing into each with wire and diode. Is each of those wires with diode supposed to connect to the negative terminal on the LEDs? Also I understand a relay will be required for each circuit would you be willing to please provide clarity on relay wiring to illuminate said LEDs when bulb is inoperable. I just need/ want to monitor the 4 incandescent bulbs providing brake/turn signal operations. Bar tab on me if you’re ever in my neck of the woods!
Thanks big time.

 

I'm a rookie at wiring relays. A diode may not be needed.
Another member might need to verify/change my drawing.
I included some different ways to wire relays.
Just substitute the tail light bulb and the Warning LED in the console into the relay diagram(s) to see which diagram works best..............

 

Big time thanks!

 

I'm with Ignatz - the "Cool Factor" is in play here, meaning the Fiber Optics were state of the art for the late '60s, and seeing them operate as they were intended originally, wins out for me. My only wish would be for some sort of amplification method to increase the brightness of the FO output lenses on the console. They seem rather lackluster, even after freshening up the cables and lenses at both ends.

A couple of points for platinummaker that do come to mind:
- If given a choice, I would opt for a "lit unless blown" condition for the monitors, rather than lighting only when a specific bulb is out - this follows the "Cool Factor" as well.
- You seem concerned about the ability to distinguish if the brake light vs. the tail light bulb (or LED) is out. If your LED set-up uses the same single housing as shown in post #25 from theandies, then the FO output would be that the console lens would be at "regular" brightness with only tail light on, and then at a higher brightness when the brakes are applied. If either of the those bulbs were out, you would detect that from the console lens accordingly.
- Random thought: If I recall correctly, early C3's (and most cars of that vintage) did have a form of detection system for park/tail/brake light bulbs. When you apply the turn signal or hazard flasher, the speed of the flashing decreases due to the change in resistance caused by the blown bulb.

 

Hey Doorgunner- valiant effort...and not to discourage but-

If you have the coil of the relay in a series (85 & 86) with the bulb ( incandescent) the relay will trigger- but the bulb will not light- as the relay will not let enough current to flow to a ground and light the bulb.

If you are using a LED light- it will light - but not flow enough current to trigger the relay...

The coil inside the relay - long- thin wire uses the power to make a magnetic field to activate the relay. Not enough power - can't make a strong enough magnet- relay won't operate.

 

All,
Thanks for your continued input into my undertaking. I agree with Ignatz and Bergerboy that the system is way cool... so much so, that even though it’s pursuit of in a model that did not have it, is causing such consternation and effort,I’m still wanting to move forward. In the event that a relay installation will not allow for illumination showing bulb failure, then I can still opt to mimic the original system and have all console lights illuminate unless failure. That’s an easy one for even my limited skills. Since the car is modified from original in many ways, I don’t feel confined to original adaptation.With newer technology available and the combined generous brain power of all on this site, I was hoping to replicate the esthetics of the original, with the functionality best suited for my tastes.
If a relay properly configured to illuminate an LED in the console upon bulb failure is not an option, could those of you who are soothsayers of the black art of OHM’s law, please put me out if my misery. Thanks again (sincerely)

 

Since you are determined to forge ahead, I suggest, as did Bikespace, that you take a good hard look at the Arduino boards. You don't need or want relays clicking and clacking, an all solid state solution with on-board ADC's and discrete LED drivers is all you need. It's all there on one $10 board. And all of the wiring to the directionals is on the steering column so you probably don't need to even get under the car.

Remember, if you can shovel coal, you can learn to code. There is an enormous support mechanism for the Arduino with endless examples to pillage and adapt to your situation.

 

Ignatz
Thank you. I am the analog man flailing in a digital world. Two questions please? What is an ADC? And how might I educate myself on Arduino?
Thanks again

 

ADC- stands for analog to digital conversions...

If you google Adruino - there's a ton of stuff out there- Youtube- Forums etc.

Being the smart *** that I am...you might want to consider running fiber optics to the Arduino boards-as they (fiber optics)are not susceptible to electromagnetic interference (EMI) or radio frequency interference (RFI)...just sayin!!!

My son's friend was over a while back when I was redoing my fiber optics- He couldn't believe it had fiber optics way back then -as that's the new cool thing!!!

 

Here's a for instance from a local supplier to us, just a little down the road from you. You are living in the middle of all kinds of help.

https://www.jameco.com/z/KIT-AC-OSHG...t_2199543.html

It has a grab bag of LED's so you get the simple "Hello World" kind of feedback by cut and pasting somebody else code in and seeing something light up. The only addition for a start at this is an analog voltmeter. Stay away from an all purpose autto-ranging gadget.

I haven't checked out the video resources myself but they claim an absolute beginner status. You seem like a smart guy, just a little leery of this particular field.

 

I still vote for KISS. Keep it simple stupid. Save yourself a headache and stick to how Chevy did it way back then. Running FO cables, drilling a few holes is much easier than messing with relays, A to D converters etc.
Turning on the light when a bulb burns out seems opposite to what the system is supposed to tell you. My point? When I first bought my '71 I got all my FO working, luckily I only had to get the rear tail lights working. Once I did that I found out my brake light switch would not work intermittently as when I stepped on the brake the FO wouldn't get brighter. Once I replaced the switch it worked fine. If it hasn't been for the FO's I would have never known my brake light switch was bad. Also it indicated one of my high beams was out.
Sure, if it worked opposite it would have done the same thing but part of the cool factor is having the FO indicator lights on all the time. FO will even tell you your brake lights are not working during the day.
As pointed out they are not that bright but I like it that way. Hell, I turn my instrument lights all the way down in my daily driver as full blast the blind me at night and reduce my night vision.
Simple, run 9 single cables, drill 5 holes (add holes to get into the cabin), buy or modify your headlamp connections to accommodate FO, install FO bezels, hook it all up and your done. No need to mess around with those pesky electrons.
My opinion but I think you're over thinking this.

EDIT - posted picture of headlamp connector with FO:

 

Plus - be sure to keep your FO cable ends cut cleanly. The light transmission is dependent on a smooth square end cut across all the tiny fibers. There are how-to tips on this forum and on the YouTubes. The connection of each cable into the receptor and the display lens is also critical to transmit the maximum light possible. I recommend using some heat shrink tube on each cable end to make a nice snug fit into the back of the console lens. Then a dab of super glue around tube (keep the fiber ends clear!) just for good measure.
Also - If you are using existing rear light housings and receptor lenses, check to make sure those are clean and clear from overspray. Mine were body colored after the car had been resprayed, so there was NO light coming through from the rear tail lights when I took ownership. I hope at least the prior owner had them remove the bulbs when they painted to car!
Good luck!

 

Actually what Chevy used back then was single strand plastic cable but you still need a clean cut.
I did my senior project when in college on FO data line loss through various splices and bends. This was for data signal but it still showed what splices and bends do to the light signal. The FO in the Corvettes are just strictly photon carriers without data like FIOS is.

 

I certainly wouldn't want to discourage anyone from learning how to program Arduinos. I've used them for lots of things, from measuring rocket acceleration/altitude, to measuring thermocouples in my Corvettes.

The 4-wire board seems to be sold out on Aliexpress, which may mean that they are not making them anymore. However, a reseller on Amazon still has 10-packs of the 4 wire sensor module (Amazon Link). I just ordered a pack.

Back to the KISS principle, the fiber solution is pretty awesome. Using the sensors I linked in either digital mode (on/off) or in analog mode interpreted through an Arduino, it should be "easy" to replicate the stock system with LEDs that come on with the indicator lights. You then just use your brain to interpret the lights, and detect if one is out. To do the reverse would take a LOT more wiring and a LOT more programming.

Maybe I'll mock it up on my bench when the parts arrive. I'd like to figure out how to get amber turn signals anyway.

 

I am very appreciative of all going to the mat to help salve my incessant desires. I have opted to configure the console to look and function more as original with illumination indicating functional lighting. I will just splice into separate ground wires from each brake light and run them up to the console LEDs. A LED out will indicate broken ground in a particular light. Seems overly simple in comparison to earlier discussion. I can tap into an ignition sourced positive from the dash/ console for LED power.
I had previously put turn signal indicators inside the L88 scoop. Part of my old man syndrome is forgetting a turn signal is on, and these under scoop lights provide a can’t miss reminder.
Thanks again



Sorry guys. I just realized that won’t work as it doesn’t appear the ground will ever be broken if each light is grounded to chassis and I tap into that wire for LED ground. Am I correct in that assumption? Back to the drawing board