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I like the chrome bezels on the gauges!!! Give it a classy look!!!
Here's a trick for NOT driving around with the turn signals on- without putting a Cadillac emblem on the back of your car...
After up to (programmable) 4 minute and 15 seconds of the turn signals being on a piezo buzzer will start to beep with the flashing turn signals.
It's wired to ignition- so it won't buzz if you have the car off and using the hazards.
I like the chrome bezels on the gauges!!! Give it a classy look!!!
Here's a trick for NOT driving around with the turn signals on- without putting a Cadillac emblem on the back of your car...
After up to (programmable) 4 minute and 15 seconds of the turn signals being on a piezo buzzer will start to beep with the flashing turn signals.
It's wired to ignition- so it won't buzz if you have the car off and using the hazards.
Just a little FO tid-bits. We use FO alot at work. Most are single strand plastic. There are some multi-strand actual glass fiber cables but they all come with a metal ferrel on the ends. We use special cutters for the single strand plastic cables that come with the replacement FO cables. They cut perfectly straight without scratching. You're supposed to only use the cutter once but I've found over the years it can be used multiple times before signal degradation. Pictured is me holding one of the plastic FO cables to my phone to show its single strand like in the Corvette. Second picture is the cutter. I actually used one of these cutters to clean up the ends of my Corvette FO cables years ago. I had to remove the little keeper thingy to do it. I was careful not to break the keeper thingy and managed to put them back on when done. Enjoy.
Actually what Chevy used back then was single strand plastic cable but you still need a clean cut.
Just a clarification "to whom it may concern". At least on my 69, the FO is multiple strand with a bronze ferrule. It's hard to get a single clean-cut so I am living with slightly degraded light intensity. Is your cutter good at multi-strand?
Also I buggered up one of the ferrules (which is essentially what holds the fiber in the guide). My local guy doesn't have a source for these.
Hey Ignatz,
My '69 is also multi-strand F.O.
Try my cobble method to hold the ends in the lens tubes if your ferrules are gone.
I used a section of shrink wrap tube just back from the cut edge of each cable. You may need more than one layer to get the fit snug. I think I also dabbed some superglue on the shrink tube so it would hold in good over time.
Last edited by Bergerboy; Feb 24, 2021 at 12:54 PM.
Hey Ignatz,
My '69 is also multi-strand F.O.
Try my cobble method to hold the ends in the lens tubes if your ferrules are gone.
I used a section of shrink wrap tube just back from the cut edge of each cable. You may need more than one layer to get the fit snug. I think I also dabbed some superglue on the shrink tube so it would hold in good over time.
Thanks Bergerboy. I'm going to have get into that area again to fix the e-brake slider anyway. I'll go easy on the heat gun.
Just a clarification "to whom it may concern". At least on my 69, the FO is multiple strand with a bronze ferrule. It's hard to get a single clean-cut so I am living with slightly degraded light intensity. Is your cutter good at multi-strand?
Also I buggered up one of the ferrules (which is essentially what holds the fiber in the guide). My local guy doesn't have a source for these.
No, the cutter is used only on the plastic ones. I mean I guess it could do the glass fiber ones but I've never tried as all our glass fiber ones have metal ferrules on the ends and are fixed length depending on application.
Maybe Chevy changed them or maybe I didn't look at them hard enough. Probably the latter. I know after I cut them they transmitted light better.
When I installed headlight relays and larger wire with ceramic plugs I modified the plugs to accommodate the FO cables and they were stiff as all get out. More so than the original wiring which either the jacket is a different material than the wiring or the inside is indeed plastic making it stiffer than the electrical wiring.
Only a few bucks apiece-
small- 2" x 3"
Has a 'remote' sensor- normally open and normally closed relay (10A)
Light detection and brightness detection- can be adjusted via potentiometer
I'm thinking this could also be used to turn on your headlights at dusk/night...
Last edited by Richard454; Feb 24, 2021 at 10:00 PM.
Richard thanks much! Woof woof. As I believe these are inductive, will I cause any problems having to extend the sensors?
I amazed at how you can find these things.
Thanks again!
It's for model trains, I guess they are catching up to us 60's guys.
Finally I think you guys are forgetting that the lightbulbs themselves attach to ground. There is no ground wire. For incandescents, if you wanted to see if a filament had burned out you would source some current through a limiting resistor and check to see if there was any voltage across that resistor. Incandescents are zero resistance until they heat up, that occurs almost instantly. As far as my statement goes, that only works if the source side of the wire is floating. Further an Arduino ADC isn't differential input so it's not an easy hookup to one of those boards.
Again I haven't given this much thought. "Use the Fiber" is my advice still.
The original GM jacketed plastic fiber optic cables are multi strand plastic. They were called Crofon and had that printed on the jacketing. Scientific America would sell Crofon by the foot. Lou.
Only a few bucks apiece-
small- 2" x 3"
Has a 'remote' sensor- normally open and normally closed relay (10A)
Light detection and brightness detection- can be adjusted via potentiometer
I'm thinking this could also be used to turn on your headlights at dusk/night...
Richard,
Ic I could impose once again, how would I wire these buys?
Thanks much. Big much!
Is this becoming the reverse approach to Rube Goldberg? [Rube constructs a plethora of simple devices in a complicated way to achieve a simple task.] Using electronics to transfer the fact that a light is actually illuminated ????
Is this becoming the reverse approach to Rube Goldberg? [Rube constructs a plethora of [u]simple devices in a complicated way to achieve a simple task.] Using electronics to transfer the fact that a light is actually illuminated ????
I know after I cut them they transmitted light better. 
