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Differential front snubber installation

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Old Feb 20, 2021 | 03:38 PM
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Default Differential front snubber installation

Hello all...again.
I posted another thread in regards to my 82 raising and lowering when I shift gears. Long story short. I solved it by taking care of my high idling. I purchased a rear end front snubber kit from Wilcoxx just in case. I have read their installation instructions and they sound very easy. Looking at my task, it does not look as easy. It appears as if my yoke/ u joint is going to be in the way. For those who have done it, and remember how they did it, can you assist, please!!
How the F$%K did you get a wrench on the top bolt?
I purchased my new to me 82 two weeks ago and it has been on jack stands while I have replaced the tranny gasket, oil pan gasket, valve cover gaskets, rear end fluid change and a bunch of sensors. I finally got the car running right!!
Thank you
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Old Feb 20, 2021 | 04:14 PM
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The 80-82's have an aluminum differential housing. It is larger than it's steel brethren's housing and eats up space. It really needs to be put up on a lift and have a helper person. I abandoned my solo, Jack-stand attempt and took it to my local Corvette mechanic. He only charged me one hour. Make positive that you use rubber and not Polly in that particular application.
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Old Feb 22, 2021 | 12:35 AM
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You are waaaay ahead of the game if gaskets and a snubber are all you need to get it drivable
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Old Feb 22, 2021 | 02:19 AM
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I think I used an offset box end but it's been so long I can't remember. With that said I probably had the driveshaft out at the time so if you still have problems just unbolt the u-joint and push the driveshaft forward to get more room since you are already up on jack-stands.


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Old Feb 22, 2021 | 09:05 AM
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I've done this on my 77 several times. I had to unbolt the rear U joint and push the drive shaft up and forward to get a wrench on the bolt at the top. This is on jack stands.
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Old Feb 22, 2021 | 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by BKbroiler
I've done this on my 77 several times. I had to unbolt the rear U joint and push the drive shaft up and forward to get a wrench on the bolt at the top. This is on jack stands.
Yep.
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Old Feb 22, 2021 | 10:53 AM
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i did not move driveshaft but it was a PITA
Replacing snubber bushing 79 - CorvetteForum - Chevrolet Corvette Forum Discussion

i would note as mentioned above.. you have the aluminum 80 plus rear end so not sure how relevant pre 80 fix is..
i think a flex wrench held the bolt while socket took off bottom nut

Last edited by interpon; Feb 22, 2021 at 11:21 AM.
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Old Feb 22, 2021 | 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by interpon
i did not move driveshaft but it was a PITA
Replacing snubber bushing 79 - CorvetteForum - Chevrolet Corvette Forum Discussion

i would note as mentioned above.. you have the aluminum 80 plus rear end so not sure how relevant pre 80 fix is..
i think a flex wrench held the bolt while socket took off bottom nut
Yeah - I was lulled into doing it myself with these beautiful photos and there are/were two YouTube videos -- but, all apply to the pre-80's C3s. The lower affixment nut on the `80-82's is as accessible as on the pre-80's so it is tempting to get on with replacing it to alleviate the "clunk" while engaging the automatic transmission. But, come to find out that everything above it is very space-sparce. You need someone to hold a long crow bar to separate the upper bracket (?) so that someone - using BOTH hands to blindly reach up with no line of sight up into that dark/tight area - and, maneuver the bolt and old rubber snubber bushing out. Its so much easier to have the vehicle up on a hoist so that the second person has the space and leverage to pull the bar under a significant amount of tension to make millimeters of access space, while the other person (Tech) can reach up with both hands to both pull out the old one, and then replace it with the new bolt/washer and puck. I found it impossible to do it while laying down under jack stands without a third arm. The reason is because the `80-82 axle housing is about 5-10% larger than the pre- 80's because they added more mass to compensate for the lighter weight aluminum on a vehicle that they knew would be driven in a.... spirited manner. That small difference in the larger axle housing is just enough to make it hard to blindly unbolt and pull the bolt up and out at a precise angle.
My Corvette Shop Owner/Tech, (Bobby's Corvettes, Ypsilanti, MI - 30+ years) said that mine was by far the trickiest one he had ever done. One of his friends was even there to hold a flashlight up into the housing space so that Bobby could see anything since it is all done blindly by feel even while using his outdoor, driveway hoist outdoors in the bright July afternoon sun.
I take pride in doing all of my own moderate level repairs - but, this one stumped me and though I was a bit embarassed to take it in once I had failed, I got over it when I saw a renown Detroit metro C3 professional huffing, & cussing with two of us helping him. Again, if you own a pre-`80, disregard as this won't affect you - and the YouTube videos make it look comparatively easy.

Last edited by Lakeside49; Feb 23, 2021 at 09:18 AM.
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Old Feb 22, 2021 | 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Lakeside49
Yeah - I was lulled into doing it myself with these beautiful photos and there are/were two YouTube videos -- but, all apply to the pre-80's C3s. The lower affixment nut on the `80-82's is as accessible as on the pre-80's. But, come to find out that everything above it is very space-sparce. Bottom line, you need someone to hold a long crow bar to separate the upper bracket (?) so that someone - using BOTH hands to blindly, with no line of sight up into that dark/tight area, maneuver the bolt and old rubber snubber bushing out. Its so much easier to have the vehicle up on a hoist so that the second person can have leverage to pull the bar under a significant amount of tension to make millimeters of access space, while the Tech is reaching up with two hands to both pull out the old one, and then replace it with the new bolt/washer and puck versus trying to do it laying down under jack stands. I couldn't do it, and my hand/arm strength was absolutely not a factor - I had the bar sufficiently pulled down with one hand and my other hand up in the darkened/tight area trying to pull it out - but, the clearance in the `80-82 axle housing area doesn't compare to the pre- 80's because they added more mass to compensate for the lighter weight aluminum on a vehicle that they knew would be driven in a.... spirited manner. Its increased size in an already confined space is the tradeoff for reduced weight.
My Corvette Shop Owner/Tech, (Bobby's Corvettes, Ypsilanti, MI - 30+ years) said that mine was by far the trickiest one he had ever done. One of his friends was even there to hold a flashlight up into the housing space so that Bobby could see anything since it is all done blindly by feel even while using his outdoor, driveway hoist outdoors in the bright July afternoon sun.
I take pride in doing all of my own moderate level repairs - but, this one stumped me and though I was embarassed to take it in once I had failed, I got over it when I saw a renown Detroit metro C3 professional huffing, & cussing. Again, if you own a pre-`80, disregard as this won't affect you - and the YouTube videos make it look comparatively easy.
I could not agree with these comments more!!
I have always done most if not all my own wrenching, unless the vehicle is new and under warranty. I have been struggling with this snubber for the past two days, trying to figure out how to get it accomplish. There's no room whatsoever, even with the ujoint out. The yoke is still about 1 inch above the bolt. It is impossible to see what you're doing so you have to feel your way. I need another set of arms, at least one other right arm and alot more height. I have read instructions, I have seen videos and I have seen some photos supplied by other members. My 82 does not have as much clearance/ room as the others that I have seen. I usually don't ask for help unless it appears to be impossible to do. So, for now, I thank every body who contributed information to my thread. I will be leaving this task for the day that I take my car to Vette Doctors. All I have left to do now in order so I can drive my car is the left rear caliper, Shifter shaft seal and Power cylinder bushing.
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