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Wondering about wheel aligning on my 75 C3. I´ve changed all bushings.
502 BB, 3.08 rear. With Gear Vendors overdrive on 2.40 .Lower, harder springs.
Most driven at high speed on the german "Autobahn" often 120-150 mph.
Thanks from Gremany/Hamburg,
Kalle
Last edited by mullvamp; Mar 10, 2021 at 09:18 PM.
Wondering about wheel aligning on my 75 C3. I´ve changed all bushings.
502 BB, 3.08 rear. With Gear Vendors overdrive on 2.40 .Lower, hard springs.
Most driven at high speed on the german "Autobahn" often 120-150 mph.
Thanks from Gremany/Hamburg,
Kalle
High speed stability requires more caster than factory. Factory ~ 2.75 degree's, get as much as you can. This may require offset upper arms, or after market arms with more caster. Best option is something similar to
You need a bit of toe-in to keep the front wheels from "wandering" around. At normal speeds (120KPH or less), 1 to 3 mm would be about right. I have no experience with speeds higher than that, but I would think you need to have some amount of toe-in on the front wheels to keep them tracking straight.
Front toe in is an easy adjustment by turning the tie rod adjusters. In the rear, you need shims. I would pick up a set of stainless steel shims and bring them with you to the shop.
Thank you one more time for the answers.
I have taken a set of stainless steel shims with me to the shop. They did a good job.
Front toe in is 0.09 degrees per wheel, (together 0.18 degrees).
Rear toe in is only about 0.33 degrees per wheel. Because of the thicker PU bushing it was impossible to move the trailingarm any more to get other numbers.
Driving feeling is ok for 10 X 15 rims/255/60/15 V
Regards from Germany, stay healthy in this covid time...
Kalle.
Last edited by mullvamp; Mar 11, 2021 at 08:58 PM.
You can slot the holes in the upper A arms to gain more caster, this will get you close to 4.7 deg positive and is almost undetectable if you have to keep things looking stock.