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Old Apr 4, 2021 | 12:05 AM
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Default power brake booster

I wrote in here about a year ago having problems with brakes on my 76 . Alot of people said its hard to find the right booster that will fit . I bought one from a corvette supply place and yes its recessed the master cylinder almost doesnt wana fit because the studs on the booster are too long . Have it installed pedal almost to the floor adjusted the light for the brake lights all the way and you have to pull up a little on pedal so light doesnt stay on . My question is who makes the right booster for my vet? Ecklers looks just the the one i bought ive been looking around for a while they all look the same . Ive restored the vet everything is about new along with a balanced and blueprinted 355 with 430 hp wanting to drive very bad with limited brakes .
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Old Apr 4, 2021 | 08:54 AM
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Tuff Stuff, (American company), sells a booster/Master cylinder combo. So you know they will work together. can be purchased through Summit or just Google Tuff Stuff.
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Old Apr 4, 2021 | 09:19 AM
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Bought a tuff stuff booster last year. After 4 hours of r&r come to find out the booster was bad from the factory. Hassle returning it, poor customer service from them.
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Old Apr 4, 2021 | 10:04 AM
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thanks
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Old Apr 4, 2021 | 10:16 AM
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I got mine from Rock Auto, exactly like the original, no problems.
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Old Apr 4, 2021 | 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by cheapta
I got mine from Rock Auto, exactly like the original, no problems.
thanks
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Old Apr 4, 2021 | 10:23 AM
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The first thing I would check, to improve your brakes, is to check the booster rod contact to the MC. Very critical. There is a tool just for this. There should only be .02 inch gap between the rod and MC plunger. Then there is the entire brake bleeding issue.
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Old Apr 4, 2021 | 10:31 AM
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It can get aggravating getting the correct end-play on the M.C to Booster push-rod, and the brake pedal to Booster push-rod.
I forget if there is a "return spring" on the brake pedal pivot bolt to make the pedal return on it's own (if the booster won't do the job).
I always glance back at the car as I walk away...I opened the garage one morning and the brake lights were ON...Weird! It seems the switch was set correctly, but the pedal didn't always return to the "full-return" position
You can adjust the brake light switch a bit more to prevent "constant brake lights-on". Don't be concerned about the extra milli-second it takes for the brake lights to come on
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Old Apr 4, 2021 | 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by kodpkd
The first thing I would check, to improve your brakes, is to check the booster rod contact to the MC. Very critical. There is a tool just for this. There should only be .02 inch gap between the rod and MC plunger. Then there is the entire brake bleeding issue.
This is VERY important.
You can do it if you measure very carefully or you can buy a tool that is available from various sites that is very accurate.
CSSB has a new US made exact replica.
It's available through their ebay web site or various Corvette retailers.
Also, after you get every thing working correctly, if your pedal is too low, you can buy a longer clevis that will raise it about 2". Unfortunately, you have to remove the booster to install it.
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Old Apr 4, 2021 | 01:29 PM
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I bought a Tuff Stuff booster several years ago with the recessed area for the m/c. Works great! Highly recommended. Mark58, you could send out your old booster for rebuilding.
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Old Apr 4, 2021 | 03:58 PM
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To the best of my knowledge, the booster / MC rod gap should be 0.060. You want a notable gap there or the brakes will be applied constantly from the weight of the pedal assembly. That's 0.060 is about 1/16 of an inch.
Also, when the brakes are released, the pads / pistons & fluid have to have room to retract without dragging on the rotor.

Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Apr 4, 2021 at 04:01 PM.
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