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You can tell the poster never had a Jaguar, Fiat, Audi etc etc. Possibly a Mazda Miata may be considered the most reliable sportscar on the planet, probably Corvette is #2.
Try throwing $2000 at a Porsche 911...it'll buy you 6 spark-plugs and a half of a set of lugnuts.
I find my C-3 to be FANTASTICALLY RELIABLE...but whadda I know, I've only owned it 43 years. I'll let you know when it breaks!
You can tell the poster never had a Jaguar, Fiat, Audi etc etc. Possibly a Mazda Miata may be considered the most reliable sportscar on the planet, probably Corvette is #2.
Try throwing $2000 at a Porsche 911...it'll buy you 6 spark-plugs and a half of a set of lugnuts.
I find my C-3 to be FANTASTICALLY RELIABLE...but whadda I know, I've only owned it 43 years. I'll let you know when it breaks!
Unkahal
Correct. The foreign makes are too rich for my blood. Plus the fact that you have had yours for so long. Many (most) of us do not have that luxury. So we do what we can to improve what we have.
all 3 are also relative terms. cheaper than a ferrari? faster than a prius? more reliable than a yugo?
How about not throwing a ton more into the car than it is worth or is necessary. I know the car will never be worth more than I put into it, but no reason to be stupid about it.
I am definitely not faster than a Prius, maybe a Yugo. Probably more reliable than a Yugo, too. Thank goodness for the Yugo.
For reliable and faster, my answer is the same. Suspension/tires. $2K will almost cover a rear suspension rebuild, if you send the trailing arms out, replace the strut rods with heim joints, and add Bilstein shocks. Add another $1K for composite rear spring, all new bushings in the front suspension, and replacing broken parts.
replace or upgrade that which you don't like. brakes need to be right. suspension needs to be at least stock and good. after that, fix what breaks. you do this, that is gonna break. the car is the boss. let it tell you what to spend money on...
Based on your name, is this a ‘75? Need more information!
Yes, I have the mighty l48 with the catalytic converter still on the car. Not sure if it has been de-pelleted or not. Someday I'll look.
I am currently working on some issues after the car sat for a few years. Last year I figured out why the fuel bladder was collapsing, new plugs and wires, simple at home carb refresh and a few other things. Trying to get the brakes sorted out now and just started taking a look at the power steering to repair the drips.
Although the pandemic only had me out for 1 month last year, it was enough to get me started. This year I have put on about 100 miles to see what is going to pop up.
BTW, is that your car in your profile pic? C2 is my favorite but I do not believe it would bring me enough joy and happiness to drop the coin.
For reliable and faster, my answer is the same. Suspension/tires. $2K will almost cover a rear suspension rebuild, if you send the trailing arms out, replace the strut rods with heim joints, and add Bilstein shocks. Add another $1K for composite rear spring, all new bushings in the front suspension, and replacing broken parts.
I'm thinking about this winter for the trailing arms and the rest. But I wonder if the spring is worth it. Weight loss is good, I guess. But I read so many threads that are unhappy with ride height and not being able to get it correct. As derekderek said, fix what is broken. Which for me is the 45 year old trailing arms and the hillbilly bent strut rods. And I am happy with regular shocks, I suppose.
Really, I am more interested in reliable than fast. I might do 1,000 miles in a year if I trust the car.
I'm thinking about this winter for the trailing arms and the rest. But I wonder if the spring is worth it. Weight loss is good, I guess. But I read so many threads that are unhappy with ride height and not being able to get it correct. As derekderek said, fix what is broken. Which for me is the 45 year old trailing arms and the hillbilly bent strut rods. And I am happy with regular shocks, I suppose.
Really, I am more interested in reliable than fast. I might do 1,000 miles in a year if I trust the car.
The spring is absolutely worth it, if you get the right one. There's a long lead time right now even for the wrong springs. The correct springs are the (defunct) VB&P low arch springs, which Van Steel now sells (or is gearing up to reproduce, it's unclear). There are several threads on this.
But, yes, the spring is absolutely worth it, if you're in there anyway.
For reliable, carry an extra 4-pin HEI module with you, and a distributor cap with coil. The coil can go out slowly with symptoms. The module can leave you stranded with no warning.
Please post some photos!
Last edited by Bikespace; Apr 29, 2021 at 10:08 PM.
Nothing unusual here except the zip tie holding the front grill in place. I have a new grill waiting to be put in place I really like the look of the stock engine compartment. Wires under manifolds. Orange everywhere. Chrome distributor and wire covers. I just get a kick out of it. Another typical Corvette picture. The paint is much worse than the pics show, especially the driver's door which has a couple thick layers of repair for some reason.
This car was pretty much unmolested when I purchased it 10+ years ago. The interior is passable for me. I did replace the door panels which made a huge difference in looks. It had some Janky chrome valve covers I finally replaced last year. The outer door handles were replaced several years ago but I just recently got them working somewhat better.
Last edited by 7t5; Apr 30, 2021 at 01:20 AM.
Reason: add some explanation
DeWitts aluminum radiator for reliability. Keep it cool. A good set of gears, maybe 3.73s and a posi unit for speed. That would just about kill your two grand. Might have enough left for a pizza. Nothing is cheap on these cars.
DeWitts aluminum radiator for reliability. Keep it cool.
Or a Champion. Along the lines of keeping it cool.... I see your state has no front license plates? Id open that up. Why cut off 1/3 of your grill area if you don`t have to?