Need Input!
however, perusing the marketplace I came across a 1976 stingray 4 speed red with black interior and an, 'upgraded motor that has more power than stock.'
now, dammit, im stuck.
I can't decide whether I should grab the L82 auto or go with the 76 stingray
ive always preferred manual trans in my sports cars but these cars are a little small for me (6'2" 210lbs)
I understand you guys are kind of shooting in the dark with advice but I don't know where else to turn lol
so, any input is welcome as I prepare to buy my first Vette!!!
TIA!
however, perusing the marketplace I came across a 1976 stingray 4 speed red with black interior and an, 'upgraded motor that has more power than stock.'
now, dammit, im stuck.
I can't decide whether I should grab the L82 auto or go with the 76 stingray
ive always preferred manual trans in my sports cars but these cars are a little small for me (6'2" 210lbs)
I understand you guys are kind of shooting in the dark with advice but I don't know where else to turn lol
so, any input is welcome as I prepare to buy my first Vette!!!
TIA!
You saw another car for sale that you know NOTHING about. What was the question again?
lol whether I should give in to the desire to plant my left foot on the man pedal or not.
'agreed to buy' is a bit firm, I haven't even driven the car yet and he hasn't driven it in 2 years... its agreed that I want it but still pending a drive and detailed inspection so, backing out isn't going to hurt anyones feelings. as of yesterday he's still waiting on a water pump, alternator and new battery before it'll even start.
side question, is there a VIN history service like carfax available for cars this old?
Last edited by schuffler; May 7, 2021 at 05:32 PM.

If I had to choose, I'd buy that 80 L82 in a heartbeat, tune it up and drive the wheels off for a season. Then I'd save up for a 5-speed conversion, probably a Tremec TKX from SST. 1980 is the best year for Vettes without chrome bumpers. They are 250 lbs lighter than the year before, and the last year without computers. Go sit in both, and see what speaks to you. Personally, I can't stand the pre-78 interior.
I have the exact opposite 80, an L48 4-speed, white on red interior. The manual makes the car. I'm also 6'1", and somehow I have a bit more room in my 80 than in my wife's 79 auto. The glass T-Tops will help you, but I rarely put mine on. Oyster White interiors are awesome.
Either way, be sure to check for rust behind the kickpanels and the other usual spots. Good luck, and let us know what you decide!
If I had to choose, I'd buy that 80 L82 in a heartbeat, tune it up and drive the wheels off for a season. Then I'd save up for a 5-speed conversion, probably a Tremec TKX from SST. 1980 is the best year for Vettes without chrome bumpers. They are 250 lbs lighter than the year before, and the last year without computers. Go sit in both, and see what speaks to you. Personally, I can't stand the pre-78 interior.
I have the exact opposite 80, an L48 4-speed, white on red interior. The manual makes the car. I'm also 6'1", and somehow I have a bit more room in my 80 than in my wife's 79 auto. The glass T-Tops will help you, but I rarely put mine on. Oyster White interiors are awesome.
Either way, be sure to check for rust behind the kickpanels and the other usual spots. Good luck, and let us know what you decide!
solid advice!! ive checked the usual spots around the birdcage, the rear wheel wells and the frame on the 80 and its in great shape, very little surface rust. there's a pretty big door gap on the driver side, not so much on the passenger side but from what ive read thats common on these cars and can mean anything from a drunk assembler on the line to drooping nose or bent frame. the 76 is 3.5 hours from me so its difficult to just go check it out... I'm going to have the guy do a walk around via FaceTime on Sunday and ill have the best look I can at those spots. ill definitely be posting tons of progress pics here regardless of which I choose.
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Does either car have a service history?
That might sway you one way or the other.
Plan of spending a few grand more after the purchase,
Price a new interior and carpets and a few random parts.
Are you handy? Can you fix your Corvette yourself, if not add a few grand more!


use this to check old VINs: https://www.nicb.org/vincheck
'agreed to buy' is a bit firm, I haven't even driven the car yet and he hasn't driven it in 2 years... its agreed that I want it but still pending a drive and detailed inspection so, backing out isn't going to hurt anyones feelings. as of yesterday he's still waiting on a water pump, alternator and new battery before it'll even start.
side question, is there a VIN history service like carfax available for cars this old?
Last edited by carriljc; May 7, 2021 at 08:11 PM.






No brainer. I wouldn't hesitate on the Manual Stingray if it checks out rust wise, bird cage, paint, etc.
Automatic is nice for your wife.
Last edited by 4-vettes; May 8, 2021 at 03:04 AM.
In the photo of the 76, the rear bumper is not correct. But, the 80 is 41 years old and the 76 is 44. In either case plan to do some work.
I’m more of a fan of the early C3s’, 68-through 77. Regardless of the direction you go, a C3 will always be a C3. When you put them in a Corvette line, their beautiful body lines always attract attention.
Best of luck with your purchase!
How much work (and money) are you prepared to put into whatever car you get?
Which one can you get in and drive/enjoy right away ...this summer?
I say buy the car that meets most of those qualifications...

You have to wonder why no one has driven the 80 for so long , what is going to start leaking when the dry seals start working again.
4 speed = fun ............auto = steering wheel attendant

RUST is the main issue here . (or lack of to be clear ! )
Last edited by bazza77; May 8, 2021 at 07:21 PM.
Let me try it and do it factually.
First, you may not be concerned about long term value but a 76 is probably the least likely to appreciate in value of all C3's. Just like the 64 is with C2's. The L82 1980 is probably the most likely rubber bumper to appreciate. Don't hate me I owned both, it is what it is.
Second, If that is a numbers matching L82 it is the lowest price I have seen in a decade. Please PM me if you don't buy it. So you are buying very low in a possibly appreciating car. Conversely, a modified motor non matching number rubber bumper anything is going to be worth about what it is right now for years to come.
Third, that high performance motor will always be a mystery, what did Bubba do to build that motor up? And that can mean thousands of dollars in downstream expense. There are great cars out there built by great builders but unless ALL the details and parts are known then you are really up the creek when a problem occurs. I could show you a few right now for sale that are great builds but they are 50k plus not sub 10k. That alone is a red flag.
Buy the L82, it is the KNOWN quantity, You know the players and the car has no mysteries and a solid pedigree with a future. Not only that but it is an incredible start to a performance platform. That 4 bolt L82 can be easily and inexpensively modified to produce much more HP without losing the matching numbers.
Last edited by LeeS; May 11, 2021 at 06:54 PM.

















