Radiator Support
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Joined: Nov 2020
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From: Central WI (summer) South Texas (winter)
Radiator Support
I’ve removed the radiator and support so the engine can be pulled for rebuild. I knew the 46 year old support was rusted and planned to replace it as a part of this project. Now that I’m gathering the new parts and reading tech pages, I’m seeing shims. There were no shims when I removed it and I’m guessing it’s been out previously when the PO had a rebuild done 30 years ago. How do I determine if shims are needed and how many to to use?
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Rookie here: build a 2" x 2" thick "frame" to fit into the area where you removed the radiator support...it will prevent the nose from sagging or cracking the surrounding fiberglass.
I'm guessing shims are used on the sides of the radiator support IF it fits loosely between the inner fenders where they bolt to the sides of the rad and underneath the support.
(My project had no rad. support so I fabricated one that fit/bolted tightly against the inner fender braces)
Wait for other members to give you better info.
I'm guessing shims are used on the sides of the radiator support IF it fits loosely between the inner fenders where they bolt to the sides of the rad and underneath the support.
(My project had no rad. support so I fabricated one that fit/bolted tightly against the inner fender braces)
Wait for other members to give you better info.
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how was the nose fitting around the support, at the hood and at the fire wall and doors?
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Joined: Nov 2020
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From: Central WI (summer) South Texas (winter)
Thanks for the input. The nose didn’t appear to be sagging tho the door gaps were slightly larger at the top than the bottom. To me the gaps looked “75 correct”. One of the two lower support bolts was missing so the original was held in place mostly by the three on each side of the support. Kinda sounds like I need to have a few shims and add them if the lower horizontal section doesn’t sit tight to the cross section it rests on. Too much time to think about it as I wait for a new support to arrive.
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the three on each side attach the inner fenders to the rad support. the rad support is then attached to the air tank-crossmember-crash bar-whatever. . the 2 big bolts om the bottom of the red support set the height of the front of the nose. and after 46 years when not held up the door gaps will spread at the top as the nose drops. as Doorgunner said, fake up something to hold the nose up so door gaps look unchanged. reinstalling shot rad support and blocking it is quickest and easiest.
