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I’m pretty sure mine are original. Trying to decide when I should change out. Any advice on which to get? Also, what improvement would I possibly notice after I change them out?
When in first gear and letting off throttle I get a slight jerk until I apply throttle again. Any suggestions on how to improve this?
You want adjustables, those stock pieces are to be used for holding open doors. I'll look for the thread, but adjustables with sold heim joints is the way to go. If you want a cushy ride you should buy a C8
I’m pretty sure mine are original. Trying to decide when I should change out. Any advice on which to get? Also, what improvement would I possibly notice after I change them out?
The rubber bushings should not be dry/cracked/egg-shape/enlarged I.D. where bolt goes through
The rear alignment should not get wacky every time you hit a bump.
The rear of the car should not feel "squirmy".
You should hear less rattling noises.
Last edited by doorgunner; Jul 12, 2021 at 05:07 PM.
Your wheel alignment shop will love you for getting rid of the old rods / cam bolt. Some bubbas would beat on the rod with a sledge hammer to get the proper camber.
You can check some Vette vendors for much improved adjustable strut rod availability and prices.
And if the original rubber bushings made it 40 yrs, new rubber will make another 40. Leave poly to the track users.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Jul 12, 2021 at 05:32 PM.
I appreciate all of the advice, everyone. It looks like this will be one of those projects that I do later, since the benefit isnt that big versus what I have going on right now. I’m sure there isn’t a very big improvement in the quality of the ride. All of my other suspension has been replaced or upgraded. I’m just trying to make the drive lines as tight as I can get it. It very well may be this is as good as it gets.
OP, if your original bushing are in good condition I would leave it alone. I do not recommend the cheap aftermarket china made rubber bushings available from most Vette vendors. Maybe it was just my dumb luck, but this is what happened to mine after less than 2 months of service when I noticed the rear wheel camber starting to fade. The rubber had no rigidity and squished out of shape.
I ended up machining my own bushings out of Acetal/Delrin rod, and washers and spacers out of stainless steel to retain the mostly stock appearance of the installed strut rod.
So far so good and the alignment has stayed rock solid for the past 4-5 years. If stock appearance doesn't matter to you, adjustable rod with heim joints is probably the best option with poly bushings a close second.
If the car gets loose in the *** on and off the throttle.....it is the trailing arm bushings most likely.
The recommended adjustable strut rods are a necessity to me......I have the rubber adjustable ones but am changing them out soon to solid heim joints on a threaded aluminum rod......I am doing the trailing arms now, bought two brand new ones for $400 as opposed to removing mine, having them powdercoated and new bushings pressed in......I am also doing the rearend crossmember reinforcement plates that go where the cushions are: https://www.ebay.com/itm/37355184508...AAAOSw4a1bbEcA
If the car gets loose in the *** on and off the throttle.....it is the trailing arm bushings most likely.
The recommended adjustable strut rods are a necessity to me......I have the rubber adjustable ones but am changing them out soon to solid heim joints on a threaded aluminum rod......I am doing the trailing arms now, bought two brand new ones for $400 as opposed to removing mine, having them powdercoated and new bushings pressed in......I am also doing the rearend crossmember reinforcement plates that go where the cushions are: https://www.ebay.com/itm/37355184508...AAAOSw4a1bbEcA
Well, I wasn't going to say at the risk of being flamed......but I bought them at Corvettemods.com. I called and got a human to check stock then ordered off the site. I ordered them on Saturday and got them the following Friday.....not bad. Corvettemods has had a lot of bad reviews here, but that seems to be changing as of current reviews........the trailing arms are a super nice black powdercoat. Only thing is I have to move the E-Brake bracket to the top.....so I am slicing it off very carefully (It is only welded on the sides)...grinding just what I need off the top to mount, and TIG welding it on. After I will touch it all up with 1 Shot Sign Paint Black using a brush......
Well, I wasn't going to say at the risk of being flamed......but I bought them at Corvettemods.com. I called and got a human to check stock then ordered off the site. I ordered them on Saturday and got them the following Friday.....not bad. Corvettemods has had a lot of bad reviews here, but that seems to be changing as of current reviews........the trailing arms are a super nice black powdercoat. Only thing is I have to move the E-Brake bracket to the top.....so I am slicing it off very carefully (It is only welded on the sides)...grinding just what I need off the top to mount, and TIG welding it on. After I will touch it all up with 1 Shot Sign Paint Black using a brush......
In your opinion, would it be better to just go with the prebuilt assembly with the bearings and bushings ready to go? Are you reusing old bearings or rebuilding yourself or??
In my little bit of searching, by the time I buy trailing arms and bearings separately, it seems like I could just get an assembly and be done with it.
I really want to do this job if I am going to keep the car.
In your opinion, would it be better to just go with the prebuilt assembly with the bearings and bushings ready to go? Are you reusing old bearings or rebuilding yourself or??
In my little bit of searching, by the time I buy trailing arms and bearings separately, it seems like I could just get an assembly and be done with it.
I really want to do this job if I am going to keep the car.
The assemblies are nice.....pop em in and go. I am a major cheap *** so I am reusing everything bearing wise.......assuming they are in excellent condition of course. There is nothing wrong with them now AFAIK.
I did pop for stainless pivot mount bolts......I am kinda crazy about stainless fasteners: https://www.zip-corvette.com/63-82-t...stainless.html
When you look in the wheel well you will see it I like that. My cheap *** did buy $30 a piece bolts.....LOL! But I will guarantee you won't have to cut these out in the future!
I rebuilt my strut rods and used rubber bushings. A smooth ride is a good thing. Be careful with the size of the bushings. There are different sizes depending on what year. They need to be a tight fit. The old ones were all cracked. The hard part was getting the old ones out, I had to burn them out.
Be careful with stainless bolts on structural, high load areas. They don't have the strength of a good solid steel bolt. But do look purdy.
I rebuilt my strut rods and used rubber bushings. A smooth ride is a good thing. Be careful with the size of the bushings. There are different sizes depending on what year. They need to be a tight fit. The old ones were all cracked. The hard part was getting the old ones out, I had to burn them out.
Be careful with stainless bolts on structural, high load areas. They don't have the strength of a good solid steel bolt. But do look purdy.
I was wondering about the stainless hardware being okay for use. If the bolts get replaced, i will not be the one taking them out next time, so regular nuts and bolts for me!
The assemblies are nice.....pop em in and go. I am a major cheap *** so I am reusing everything bearing wise.......assuming they are in excellent condition of course. There is nothing wrong with them now AFAIK.
I did pop for stainless pivot mount bolts......I am kinda crazy about stainless fasteners: https://www.zip-corvette.com/63-82-t...stainless.html
When you look in the wheel well you will see it I like that. My cheap *** did buy $30 a piece bolts.....LOL! But I will guarantee you won't have to cut these out in the future!
Jebby
Kind of leading this thread astray. Sorry.
i took a look at Van Steel and see that they will totally rebuild the trailing arms and bearing assemblies for $410 each. That seems like a great deal to me and I will likely go in that direction.
Can you tell me how you got the new bushings in? I bought a set from Zip and need to determine what tool I need or do I just take them to a shop that has a press.