Hi,
mild winter so far getting out at least byweekly..doing inspection under for leaks etc..
may i ask for advice on these bushings? I have never done any strut rods. C3 new to me.




How bad til replacement and best method to replace bushings..it looks like alignment needed after with that oblong adjuster? Difficulty to repair or replace? All other bushings look ok and u joints..
or can i go a few more years..
31000 miles..
thank you

 

Flogged, might as well replace them now.
Not too difficult to replace. Just make sure you mark the position on the adjuster below the diff each side so you can put it back in with the same alignment.
You'll have to remove the shock absorber as the rod and shocker are mounted to the same piece.
You can take out both at the same time by removing the 4 bolts that mount into the bottom of the diff, just make sure you remove those with a breaker bar instead of an impact gun because I've heard of some shearing off inside the housing and you turn a 1 hours job into a nightmare :{

 

thank you..so remove from dif not the bolt?
do i buy these already rebuilt or easy enough to hammer out and in and buy replacements..
that dif comment scares me ..

 

You can buy brand new rods and just straight up replace them or the cheaper option is to just re bush your ones.

The new rods you can get are adjustable, somebody else may have experience in the adjustable rods and if they're good or not

 

You pull the bolts on both ends of the strut rods - the one on the outside is also the shock mount bolt. The one on the inside is the adjuster. Mark the adjuster so you can re-install it with the same adjustment so your camber will be in the ballpark after re-installation.

Strut rods removed with hardware:


Typical, condition of the original bushings:


Outboard attach point after removal of the shock mount. The shock must be pulled off the mount stud first, and then the shock mount is knocked forward to release:


On the inboard side, remove the nut on the back side, and then push the bolt forward:


You can't use an impact hammer to remove the old bushings - the rubber sleeve will absorb all the impact. I use a couple of sockets in a vice and simply press them out. Good use for a 3/4" drive socket set.

Replace the bushings with Energy Suspension part number 3-7101G for the early cars (small strut rod ends - 1-1/2" OD rod ends), or 3-7102G for the later cars with the larger strut rod eye ends (1-3/4" OD ends). Entire removal, press out, and rebuild takes about an hour.


Lars

 

Replaced the bushings with Energy Suspension part number 3-7101G. Entire removal, press out, and rebuild takes about an hour.


Lars[/QUOTE]

thank very much!
usa made too.
i researched that part number and amazon and energy say 3.7102g not 01..i hope that one is right.
ordered the 02 ..thank you will update..always wanted a harbor freight 3/4 set..
will update. Ill try to remove it while waiting and clean..were those silver originally or did someone paint it?

 

Should be ok with the 3.7102 as that number is for the later strut rods with larger diameter ‘eyes’.

 

Thanks all for advice, i spent hours prepping and researching this site on many articles about this job and the infamous shock strut holder.
i am waiting on parts @lars recommended and figured on some articles they said removing spring will help so ordered new spring grommets from same place energy.
here goes one 1/2 tear down, pretty much as Lars outlined.but i didnt wait for the stud hammer tool for 30 bucks and seen a few threads that break the bearing carrier , or destroy stud, or cut out depending on what route going. I am trying to afford this hobby and therapy 😳.

penetrating oil for two days.
two jacks even with quickjack quite honesty i would really struggle doing this job on jack stand and you need some room to work and jacking spring. I needed the one jack forspring and one to raise wheel to remove strut and top bolts with trial and error but generally the wheel parallel seems to be right.
i used a puller, first on the strut then on the cage as it appeared to move the carrier ears but think better than a hammer? First knife out rubber to grab it with puller then it snaps once then i repositioned to the other ear and snapped a few more times and pushed through..
no way could i loosen the strut nuts and the spring nuts as it seems the cotter pin open castle rust welds to stud..my electric impact after 20 seconds finally freed them. Not easy holding top of spring bolt but it finally broke loose.
update when parts come and other side. And now to clean and find my 3/4 socket ser at store or open for other kits to push out bushings.


Went to strut first

Someone in hear before? The other one has graduations this one don’t maybe backwards will see later

Two jacks vice grips one spring one to move wheel up to unbind strut

Then other ear


Pita spring bolt

 

New energy suspension poly here and lubed up..
however i am really struggling and appreciate help.
i cannot align the strut to yoke. I tried every arc of wheel and off one way or another..there is quite a bit of twist and used a breaker bar to squeeze inner sleeve in but cannot get length or holes to line up very frustrating. The other end is in but very loose bolt to give me as much play as i can. Bushings in a arm seem intact..old one came off by jacking wheel to neutral and just fell out...
thank you for advice..sheesh this is just one side..tried with spring on and off as i replaced bushings too.
tried all swings of arc.



Wheels neg

Neutral

Used breaker bar to twist and het bushings in..verified bushings same length as old

You can see the slack twist in upper bushing

Where im at right now wheel fairly straight no spring tension...if i lower it binds more and goes forward up falls out..tried grease and mallet

 

The trailing arm changes angles as it moves up & down and twists the angle of the shock mount. I would lift the tire until the trailing arm is horizontal and the same for the two holes where the shock mount goes. Eyeball it or use a level if necessary. A large screwdriver or drift may help you align all the holes because without the strut rod the tire will also try to move in & out.
The tire/jack combo will need to be near vertical.

Good luck!

 

This twist is why I never recommend anything other than the adjustable strut rods.......you can clock the ends and they go right in.

Jebby

 

Thank you @leigh1322 finally figured out to come close to level as you say have to remove spring or car picks up..still a pita..next side when old one falls out im putting new one in..maybe...

@Jebbysan
it would have helped but the twist i needed was the other parallel.. and i did see your old posts for some good adjustables but many were out of stock, and i wonder it seems once in they have wuite a bit of torque so wouldn’t that not happen if ends swivel? Dont know just noted it dont move forged one peice..and heh..cmon stock look, grit blast struts and matte clear, polished spring bolt?? And a new drift tool usa made....priceless..
praying side 2

thanks to you all


Pretty good torsion bar

 

So the key to getting it to line up was to disconnect the spring?

 

no smoking gun.. my advice is that you cannot really jack up the wheel to make arm level...without taking spring off as it starts to lift car..
taking it off the wheel about parallel worked to have the old one drop but its pre worn

i let wheel drop to get closer , twist etc.. than jammed in a 5/16 drift punch then raised and lowered wheel.. creaks and grumbles.. start one side.. bolt replaces drift... raise again (with drift and bolt keeps it from moving away when raising wheel.. so you are battling parallel vs distance.... leave the top bolt loose and adjust max to best align..can tighten to original location later..

im surprised that maybe the strut does more than keep parallel as they both seem to have considerable torsion.. no wonder its forged..

will update side 2

 

i don't need to tighten on ground with poly bushings right? seems they stay loose?

 

I will be performing this task in the near future, and I appreciate all the advise and the pictures. I think mine are in worse condition.

 

That's correct but make sure to grease them up good with some silicone grease.

 

After reading fifty threads before this my thought is
If bad try to cut away rubber if still there, drill a hole as large as allowed ( not into bolt) to cut bushing if badly rusted to let penetrant get into it for a while. Mine actually penetrated without drilling so puller worked..
fear in all this is breaking ears. Others cut off if replacing strut, banging off with tool purchased, pipe cap from hardware..but i think key is to get penetrant in.
lower spring..
i had to use electric impact to get bolt started off spring.
two jacks after car in air.
lots of threads to use rubber or poly..i liked the usa energy poly..change spring bushings while there. Used all of the lube they give you.
think ill jack up wheel approximate ride hide then torque as no way im fitting under after.
blasted strut rod use matte clear lowes..sloppy air brush harbor freight for rustoleum black flat oil thinned with acetone damn close match..bearing surface raw no paint, spring silver spring bolt is actually pretty shiny when polished..if anyone cares..

 

This strut carries 90% of the handling load. The rubber bushings are "softer" and allow for the "twisting" to occur more easily as the trailing arm moves up/down. The poly urethane bushings are much "harder" and don't "twist" as easily. But twist they must as the rear suspension moves up and down. So they introduce an added "stiffness" due to the extra binding, and will disintegrate more rapidly than normal from all the flexing/twisting. That will also introduce some binding or jerkiness into the handling. Maybe most would not notice it, but this is not a real good application for poly bushings IMHO. I would either keep the flexible rubber (and their shorter life) or go straight to metal heim joints that do not flex at all, but can twist easily, have zero affect on ride quality, and can be adjusted easily. Best place / use on the C3 for a real race car part!.

But you already have them in, so just keep an eye on them, they may not last as long in this position as they do in other places on the car.!

 

Ya i read many threads on rubber vs poly..my conclusion is poly failures were probably not USA made extruded and seen some from a company many complained about. As long as the poly wont damage anything i would want a stifer ride. Now that ive done this job and everything is siliconed ptfe and never seize if i had to it again it will allow me some more detailing time 🙄 ...used poly on spring bushings too as rubber was pretty squished and torn...and squeaked..im under this car more than icare to admit and for sure will keep an eye out.

ok wrapped up for now..did not put heat shield on as i assume ill need to adjust or take it somewhere or try to adjust myself...
so the right side was a pain too, i learned as mentioned that wheel moves all over... i would say drop spring, lower wheel to get close..use drift screwdriver and secure end then raise wheel with jack, this pulls wheel in closer, also as the top is loose adjust as needed length for ease of alignment..lower wheel to about perpendicular and you will see it align..easier said than done but you’ll figure it out. That new $10 5/16 drift is now in my new tool inventory. Never bought the hammer shock mount tool.

Funny one of the adjusters was assembled backwards and the graduations were on back side so i painted some on..some qc there..ha.

after sitting on ground it appears they are all pretty straight and look good compared to in the air toe in..

i jousted the car many times but sure seems like more toe in than I remember...will have to drive it and see where 0 parallel is..or just take it to alignment shop as ill be guessing forever how much to adjust..

good luck on this job hope it help..about 70 bucks all in and a new tool..


In air note twist from wheel hanging...poly should hold..


Spring Was touching wheels when assembled

On ground looks good

No joke on power of spring and jack trying to slip..seemed to me welding vise grips are better but one side would hit exhaust so used c clamp