Loose or going amp on my 8 track cranking prompted me to remove..while there i am fixing seat belt red plastic and what the hell..try to fix the clock.
I was going to fix it before but the screw that holds the positive power to the clock would just twist with the circuitboard and I didn’t want to break it this time I grab the bottom with a pair of hemostats and the nut came off.
I understand why the nut was spinning is because the plastic for the clock was broken in three pieces it doesn’t seem to affect the function but certainly the stud that sticks out for the power so I’m in the process of a park seeing the pieces back together hopefully it will hold.
my clock would work if I tapped on the clock adjuster or run for maybe 10 seconds and stop or randomly come on.
this link was very helpful
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ck-repair.html

I took a motorcycle battery charger and hooked it up, the clock did not run, the contacts seem black but I don’t know if that’s the problem so I sandpaper and file them off the best I could. I took a half a can of plastic contact cleaner and it seem to start running if I manually pull the arm back and let it go but I must admit it took some time for it to run on its own and a lot of spraying of plastic safe contact cleaner I did not use any oil.
A few pictures of what it looks like in my plastic repair but it seems to be running fine while the glue dries I’ll leave the battery charger on before I button it up it’s very fascinating to watch at work so I made a YouTube video of the contacts and an overall view hey if it doesn’t work and I get my stereo back maybe I’ll do a quartz one but so far so good.
I forgot to turn the fan off but you can hear it clicking like a clock and I’m easily amused to watch the contacts work it seems the plastic that was held into a jig with pins basically the pins just break the plastic overtime but it does not seem to affect its function and I Epoxied that back in with the pieces It appears about 106 seconds for it to reset.










Notice the stud loose from broken plastic


Had to grab bottom to loosen nut from spinning

 

Looks like it lasts for about an hour..it just stops and it’s not the contacts..
didn’t use any lube just contact cleaner safe for plastics..kept great time for an hour…
i can get it going by simply adjusting clock..so close..

thoughts? Yes i am aware new just wondering as im so close if there is another thought on why it stops…fix to try

thanks!

 

I’ve repaired three of these clocks (73, 74 and 77) and I oiled them all. Be very sparing with the oil, but there are places where some of the pins that the parts and pieces ride on have a shallow “well” where they poke through the metal or plastic backing plate. These small “wells” of oil provide lubrication for the pins as they turn allowing the mechanism to function. I suspect you’re not going to see the clock run for very long dry. Give her some oil and see how she works. I did mine (77) about two years ago and she’s still working like a champ!

 

so anywhere ‘axle’ pins touch..what oil did you use? Spray?
looks like a lot of clock forums say mobil one synthetic! Only put in ‘wells’

i ordered this

when radio back will see…should have left clock out

 

I used Three-in-One oil. Seemed to work well

 

follow up so far..
bought ebay quartz clock but was DOA used and returned.. too good to be true 65 bucks
purchased this oil

Horace Whitlock's Clock Oil. 100% Synthetic Oil. The Perfect Oil for Any Mechanical Clock. Tested on 3,000+ Clocks Over a Ten Year Period. Comes with (1) 23 Gauge 2" and (1) 3" Dispensing Needle.

lubed as @Devs77 said (and oiled the gears why not) and it seemed to help, of course it stopped about hour in, but now it seems the contacts not clean enough.. basically the sandpaper didn't touch the contacts, so I got a points file from oreillys and took considerable material off the contacts...still not flat I was surprised how bad the were..
assembled 3x ....8 track stereo back and all installed so far so good!!!!
becoming an expert at removing console .still a pita.. latest tips..I taped the sharp edge of the metal gauge cluster to it does not catch the trim when removing, loosen lower console to allow more room (of course seats and sides out) repair any loose pins of connector with epoxy under copper tab so they don't move and crush on the insanely short pigtail, leave stereo loose from ground stud.

edit update..
oil and contacts were the trick so far!
so cool to hear that clock tick and reset… takes weeks!! To adjust to not run fast or slow..pretty cool..