Corvette brake bleeding problem
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 38
Likes: 2
Corvette brake bleeding problem
Hello guys,
yesterday i bleed my rear calipers cause i rebuild both and i recognize a problem. I try different methods to bleed my c3 . I start with the right and then the left rear side. With greavity bleeding air came out and all seems fine. When i was finished i checked the peddle it feels solid , but when i press the pedal hard to check that nothing leaking the peal got real soft. I don't have a leak of fluid and my fluid level still is the same. Then i bleeding my system with pressure . My buddy sit in the car and press the pedal and then i recognize that it can be something wrong. Every time he presses the pedal it came very much air bubbles out of the calipers and it got NOT less. I take much care about the fluid level so it will not drain out. I think it can be a sealing problem with a master break cylinder to the break booster?? Some one have the same problems? Any advice would help
nice wishes and a good day
Andreas
yesterday i bleed my rear calipers cause i rebuild both and i recognize a problem. I try different methods to bleed my c3 . I start with the right and then the left rear side. With greavity bleeding air came out and all seems fine. When i was finished i checked the peddle it feels solid , but when i press the pedal hard to check that nothing leaking the peal got real soft. I don't have a leak of fluid and my fluid level still is the same. Then i bleeding my system with pressure . My buddy sit in the car and press the pedal and then i recognize that it can be something wrong. Every time he presses the pedal it came very much air bubbles out of the calipers and it got NOT less. I take much care about the fluid level so it will not drain out. I think it can be a sealing problem with a master break cylinder to the break booster?? Some one have the same problems? Any advice would help
nice wishes and a good day
Andreas
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 6,742
Likes: 1,384
Go buy or make a pressure bleeder.
Here you go.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...y-version.html
Here you go.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...y-version.html
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
The rear calipers have TWO bleeders which both need to be bled. I always work from the master cylinder to the farthest bleeder on the vehicle. GM says to do it from farthest TO the master cylinder.
Take your pick of which strategy you prefer; but stay with whichever method you choose.
Take your pick of which strategy you prefer; but stay with whichever method you choose.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 8,336
Likes: 2,810
From: Cool Northern Michigan
Lionom,
The less you touch the brake pedal, the better off you are. Doing so just aggravates other issues such as the dash brake warning light.
I never touch the pedal until the whole job is complete.
Either buy a vacuum hand pump (EBay $20) or buy a Motive tank for easier bleeding of the system, without using the pedal.
I suspect your master cylinder is at fault, now. You state: have no leaks. Pedal was firm then went to the floor.
Is the master new or just rebuilt lately? If so, was it bench bled? Correctly?
The seal between the master & the booster is nothing more than a dust seal, foam gasket. There is no brake line pressure at that location.
The less you touch the brake pedal, the better off you are. Doing so just aggravates other issues such as the dash brake warning light.
I never touch the pedal until the whole job is complete.
Either buy a vacuum hand pump (EBay $20) or buy a Motive tank for easier bleeding of the system, without using the pedal.
I suspect your master cylinder is at fault, now. You state: have no leaks. Pedal was firm then went to the floor.
Is the master new or just rebuilt lately? If so, was it bench bled? Correctly?
The seal between the master & the booster is nothing more than a dust seal, foam gasket. There is no brake line pressure at that location.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 8,336
Likes: 2,810
From: Cool Northern Michigan
The vacuum hand pump is for removing bubbles in the lines. The pump kit comes with adaptors to attach to the caliper bleeder screws and the brake fluid & bubbles goes into a container.
Pump can be found on EBay for around $22. Very handy tool not just for brakes but testing vacuum advance also.
You can test your master with the purchase of some brake lines. To find out if the master is good or bad you need to isolate the master from the rest of the brake system.
If you want more info on how to accomplish this, let me know.
Pump can be found on EBay for around $22. Very handy tool not just for brakes but testing vacuum advance also.
You can test your master with the purchase of some brake lines. To find out if the master is good or bad you need to isolate the master from the rest of the brake system.
If you want more info on how to accomplish this, let me know.
Last edited by HeadsU.P.; Aug 3, 2021 at 06:57 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
The only problem with the vacuum pump is that it can suck air around the threads on the [loosened] bleeder, giving you false indication of needing to be bled more. Some folks have put putty or RTV around the threads (temporarily) to prevent this. I'm still of the old school where you actually depress the brake pedal.
But, the issues of applying the brake pedal 'poorly' during the bleeding process are real. Rapid depressing or rapid release of pedal is a big NO-NO. Smooth and easy does it.
But, the issues of applying the brake pedal 'poorly' during the bleeding process are real. Rapid depressing or rapid release of pedal is a big NO-NO. Smooth and easy does it.
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