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I am in the process of dying some of my interior panels on my 77 smoke gray (original color). I was not planning on using clear coat, but got to thinking that if I ordered it today, would waiting a week or so after spraying the dye be too long to apply the clear? The last time I dyed an interior, I used the clear and I think it was clear coated within the same day.
I am in the process of dying some of my interior panels on my 77 smoke gray (original color). I was not planning on using clear coat, but got to thinking that if I ordered it today, would waiting a week or so after spraying the dye be too long to apply the clear? The last time I dyed an interior, I used the clear and I think it was clear coated within the same day.
I use clear within an hour of applying the dye, not sure if have to, but that's what I do.
I agree that using the clear is the best option, but want to know if waiting a week between the dye application and clearcoat is going to cause adhesion problems.
I mixed auto paint in seventies. I don't recall any clear atop interior. I do recall factory formulae called for mixing flattening agent into the interior paint. I don't recall a mixed dye process, but perhaps I simply can't recall.
I agree that using the clear is the best option, but want to know if waiting a week between the dye application and clearcoat is going to cause adhesion problems.
I had no problem and did wait a few days between dye and clear.
Waiting a week or two isn’t going to matter any. I’ve dyed over a dozen interiors and helped with a dozen more. Three of these cars won NCRS top awards in recent years. Avoid high gloss or even semi gloss clear coats. Do not apply clear on high humidity days or at night. As 7T1vette says, SEM is really good, so is Eastwood’s Diamond Clear and Automotive Touchup Inc. too. Duplicolor clear and Rust oleum down right sucks, can get sticky and cracks. Clear dries very fast so don’t spray too far away that the paint dries in mid air before hitting the intended surface.
Always, Always . . . .did I mention “Always?” Test on an area not in obvious sight like the seat back -before you go to town anywhere else. And one other thing. Oxblood, and the Tan colors can show spots where the oils from your hands have been on vinyl smooth surfaces. It’s a good idea to go over areas to be painted with window wipes prior to clear coating. Don’t worry in 30 minutes or less it’s certainly dry enough to start spraying.
When new, these interiors were not 'shiny'. At best they were at the semi-gloss level. The amount of gloss can be adjusted by the amount of "flattener" put into the vinyl dye mix.
Waiting a week or two isn’t going to matter any. I’ve dyed over a dozen interiors and helped with a dozen more. Three of these cars won NCRS top awards in recent years. Avoid high gloss or even semi gloss clear coats. Do not apply clear on high humidity days or at night. As 7T1vette says, SEM is really good, so is Eastwood’s Diamond Clear and Automotive Touchup Inc. too. Duplicolor clear and Rust oleum down right sucks, can get sticky and cracks. Clear dries very fast so don’t spray too far away that the paint dries in mid air before hitting the intended surface.
Always, Always . . . .did I mention “Always?” Test on an area not in obvious sight like the seat back -before you go to town anywhere else. And one other thing. Oxblood, and the Tan colors can show spots where the oils from your hands have been on vinyl smooth surfaces. It’s a good idea to go over areas to be painted with window wipes prior to clear coating. Don’t worry in 30 minutes or less it’s certainly dry enough to start spraying.
Rich
Just found this old post. I have dyed my 72 dash and instrument cluster green with the CA brand and considering a SEM clear coat. They have a satin or a low luster clear, any suggestions? The dark green color is dull and chalky looking, which clear would you suggest to match the factory sheen.
Since my interior dash panels were pretty much trashed as far as different dye colors, cracks and other broken stuff I decided to repair everything and do a repaint. The seats, door panels, and dash pad are all in good shape so I didn't do nothing with them. I plan on replacing all of it later on down the road, but wanted it to look good for now. I found a very close match of Rust Oleum spray paint and did a finish coat of clear. Used a satin polyurethane for the clear. Came out really nice and will work until the funds get built back up for a new interior.
I have no idea why anyone would put clear coat on vinyl dye. Vinyl dye bonds to the plastic. Clear coat would just 'coat' the vinyl dye. It could chip, peel, whatever. Original parts were dyed with a semi-gloss sheen and had no clear coat. They lasted that way for decades.
Most guys don't use the clear but in some circumstances it can help add wear longevity, or change the shine characteristics if you wanted/needed to. Or bring shine back (to dull areas). A wet coat (follow can directions) should melt into the substrate. Otherwise, most guys don't need it. But lets say an owner's 'dyed' dash became dull from UV over the yrs, it might spruce things up a bit (hopefully they didn't spray armor-all all over it!).
Interior clear coat question
