Let’s talk about cracks
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 3,232
Likes: 1,232
From: PHX AZ
Johan.... I think you might have mis-understood.
Lifting from the side; Jack under the REAR jack point on frame, just in front of the wheelwell. Jack from under the FRONT jack point just as the frame takes the 'S' bend.
AT THE SAME TIME!
Do not torque the 'flexible flyer' frame.
Front or back is about the same....lift both sides from the jack points EVENLY TOGETHER. Edit...when I'm doing a big Job on the C-3's and I use the Quick Jack...I go one step further IMMEDIATELY and use a stout block of wood under the engine cradle and a 'trailer' screw jack, and about the same thing in the back with a 4X4" across the bumper/shipping mounts. I take the cantilever tension/droop out of the frame and level up the body . Then I level the car...so the doors open a close with two fingers.
This assures that the engine and or rear end is not 'hanging in space'. (Yeah, there's an hour of fiddle #$%^-ing around, but I figure it's worth it if it don't EVER hear that sound!
There are others who say I'm **** that way..."hey it sits on its wheels without all that chocking and blocking"....but paintjobs are really expensive!
This is why many of us have QUICK-JACKS or equivalent....they lift EVENLY.
Cheers Unkahal
Lifting from the side; Jack under the REAR jack point on frame, just in front of the wheelwell. Jack from under the FRONT jack point just as the frame takes the 'S' bend.
AT THE SAME TIME!
Do not torque the 'flexible flyer' frame.
Front or back is about the same....lift both sides from the jack points EVENLY TOGETHER. Edit...when I'm doing a big Job on the C-3's and I use the Quick Jack...I go one step further IMMEDIATELY and use a stout block of wood under the engine cradle and a 'trailer' screw jack, and about the same thing in the back with a 4X4" across the bumper/shipping mounts. I take the cantilever tension/droop out of the frame and level up the body . Then I level the car...so the doors open a close with two fingers.
This assures that the engine and or rear end is not 'hanging in space'. (Yeah, there's an hour of fiddle #$%^-ing around, but I figure it's worth it if it don't EVER hear that sound!
There are others who say I'm **** that way..."hey it sits on its wheels without all that chocking and blocking"....but paintjobs are really expensive!
This is why many of us have QUICK-JACKS or equivalent....they lift EVENLY.
Cheers Unkahal
Last edited by L-46man; Aug 9, 2021 at 05:48 PM.
Drifting
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 1,545
Likes: 405
From: Brampton, Ontario Canada
Drifting
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 1,545
Likes: 405
From: Brampton, Ontario Canada
It's possible if you....
Buy it new! I was also lucky enough to have a garage from day one. And I never got stupid. Even at age 18 when I bought it.
And I never drove it in the winter. I borrowed Dad's car during the winter of '76-'77 & I had a beater after that.
Plus the last time it was on a wet street was 1985. A charmed life indeed...
Buy it new! I was also lucky enough to have a garage from day one. And I never got stupid. Even at age 18 when I bought it.
And I never drove it in the winter. I borrowed Dad's car during the winter of '76-'77 & I had a beater after that.
Plus the last time it was on a wet street was 1985. A charmed life indeed...
