Okay... wild stab in the dark here... but i have to ask.

I need a car (C3 project) looked at in the States (i'm in Western Canada), but i am sick sick SICK ov getting snaked. At this point i'd rather buy sight-unseen have a completely rusted out wreck shipped to me than have another good project bought out from under me. How do you trust people you dont know... especially on a forum full ov people that obsess about the same cars i do? (and every single one with more means and money than i have?) I know many ov you here have been here a while, met each other, or have built up relationships... but i dont really know anyone, beyond their online personalities (i lurked here for years before i finally signed up). I just last week got snaked out ov a PERFECT local deal... a complete, solid 70 4-speed coupe for 8500Cdn (thats like less than 7K to you guys)... WHILE i was on my way to buy it.

I need a car looked at, in the Eastern States. Its a goddamn wreck, but it might be perfect for ME. I'm close to just pulling the trigger and saying how bad could i possibly get hosed...

Am i stupid to trust anyone at this point?

 

my number one rule In life of how to trust people....

DONT

 

No - there are honest people out there, it's just getting more difficult to find them. I was in your shoes about 3 years ago and bought a car for 17K that has turned out to be exactly what the seller said it was. The best motto was from Ronald Reagan - "Trust but Verify". You might be better to join a local club and work with people in person - I have found people to be more honest if they can put a face to the person they are talking to. Also, know that as he buyer you have all the leverage - so be picky and take your time.

 

I have bought a lot of wrecked cars to restore, all were sight unseen. My rule of thumb is the deal has to be good enough to cover the worst case scenario, and if it ends up being better than expected, that's a bonus. I've never had anyone look at cars for me, I look at pictures very carefully, and if buying from a private party, I get a feel from talking to the seller for a while.

 

Exactly, The minute you start feeling any red flags is the minute you should start looking elsewhere. Do a facetime with the guy and have him point the camera where you want to look, or get videos. Don't be afraid to go low, be honest and tell him you are the one taking the chance and the price reflects that, if he says no then move on... There is no shortage of these cars and they are not going to get super valuable any time soon so be patient..

Good Luck
60

 

Can you elaborate on the “snaked” deal? A 1970 4 spd is worth more - a lot more than $7000 if half the parts were there! Are you lowballing offers and the sellers are finding better deals before you get back to them? When I’m serious about buying a car I offer a deposit if I’m not with cash in hand. That way I have a vested interest in that car.
Anybody buying a car from me is lucky for the opportunity. I never sell projects and I never inflate the prices only to come down to sell. In fact, 99% of the time I won’t take any offer less than 95% of my offer.
Here’s what I do that Nobody can or will do:
I have a full height 2 post lift you can feel free to raise the car and examine without me looking over your shoulder in the process for as long as required.
If you want to test, you may as long as it’s not invasive. Example: you can remove covers to inspect body mounts, or do a compression test, but you cannot remove the oil pan or anything needing a resealing or readjusting. I have a complete record and photos when possible of ID numbers of the engine, trans, rear, and in the case if the car can possibly be a contender for a show car in the future I provide ID for the originality of all important parts Like the carb, alternator, heads, manifolds and air pump if so equipped. Pictures are provided of Trans pan removed, rear differential cover removed, all 8 cylinders (with photographing scope) and birdcage. Every C3 I sell I remove required trim and photograph all accessible areas of the birdcage frame. I provide everyone with a detail report of all work done, by me or anyone for me and what I know was done by a previous owner. I know my cars completely and provide a written disclosure of any known or suspected defects or needed repairs including items that may need attention in the future. I let you drive the car for as long as needed, in stop and go traffic and on open highway. You are free to bring anybody you choose whether it’s a mechanic or a lawyer, I don’t care.

Here is my favorite part, I put into writing that if you find that I was deceitful or not correct in my statements of current condition, including the records and the information within, you may, within the first 10 days return the car for a refund provided it’s in the very same condition and mileage not exceeding 250 miles and the same full tank of gas I gave with the car.

I remain in friendly terms with every living buyer of every car I’ve sold since 1996 to date and although I’m not a dealer I’ve never been in court or have any complaints (feel free to Google or public record search me).

 

Don't buy a completely rusted out wreck! Keep on learning about the cars and what price is reasonable for the condition so the person to trust will be yourself. Patience and the right one will eventually come along...just be ready to be the quicker snake!

 

I would check the car for rust and cracks in the body/ good paint. My 2 requirements was no rust issues and good paint, the rest I can fix. Some of the rust can be in the lower body mounts on the birdcage, but that means the windshield windshield pillar has a better chance of rusting, especially with the T tops. If the windshield is rusted you need major surgery to fix it. As for trus you hae to go with what you got. I liked that the guy I bought my car from let me put iot on a lift to check fo rrust but he didnt let me drive. If I did I may have passed. IT needed work everywhere mechanically cause that clown had every system messed up

 

Doveryai, no proveryai

 

My maternal grandmother used to say that. Everyone was a liar to her

 

I treat everyone I meet with respect...until they don't deserve it. If someone I don't know is buying something from me...or selling something to me, I may be respectful, but I'm not STUPID!!!
Trust is EARNED, not "assumed". When someone 'sounds' legitimate and wants to pay for a car with ca$h, I'll tell him/her "Great. What bank do you use? We'll meet at your branch and you can give them the money...and they can give me a bank draft." More than one such 'customer' has never called me back.

Where are you going to be headed to look at this car? Surely, there is someone in that area that frequents this Forum and can assist you in checking out the vehicle a bit before you spend the time and money to take a look at it. Also, if you strike a deal, you could send a monetary deposit via PayPal, etc. so that there is documented transfer of money for holding the car. Just spell out the details of the deal via e-mail and get the seller to RESEND you a copy back to show their agreement. That way you have the deal documented and funds transferred to hold the vehicle for you. If they welsh on that deal, it's called FRAUD....

 

I have never, not in over 40 used old cars now, been scammed. I've bought junk knowing it was junk, i've taken chances, and both got lucky and got what i deserved. I've definitely been lied to, a lot, but every time i could tell, and i kept it in mind. I've never lost money on an old car.

But i have also never bought a car without seeing it in person, or at least meeting the owner in person. I can 'get' a lot from a personal meeting. My psychology skills are sharp. But this car is almost 3000 miles away, and in another (closed) country. In THIS scenario... i have exactly zero leverage. But damn... the deal is good...

I'm damn patient, but its been well over a year now, and my driveway is still empty. I'm not looking to invest 50K here... i just want a half-decent project that fits as many ov my parameters as possible. I wont get a nice car for 7K USD or less... but i've seen plenty ov 68-73's here in that range that are more than good enough for me.

 

This one... IF THE SELLER IS BEING HONEST IN HIS AD... is more than enough for the money.... for me anyways. I am also VERY keen at gleaning info from pictures. But again... thats IF you actually get what is pictured in the end.

 

Its a long, long story that i'm not going to get into here... but i did EVERYTHING right. I was more than careful. The 'feeling' from the guy on the phone was very good. Not a hint ov red flag. Nothing. He just outright straight-up lied. I was bringing him asking price. I'm not a lowballer. I hate those ******. And ALL the parts were there. It had a small section ov frame rust where some birds had made a nest, but he had the parts to fix, and it was still driveable. I got to the car the SECOND i had the money. I'd have gone midnight the night before... but people dont like that. He said come out, i was on my way, on-route, he allowed someone else to come and see, and they brought a trailer. I... would have told anyone else to wait until THE GUY COMING TO BUY IT (from a good distance mind you) had turned it down. THAT... is the honest, honorable thing to do. I've done it. He was weak.


Its nice you can do all that. I cant, but i'm honest, and i sell for fair prices, which means i dont have to be shady. Its a deal, its right here, i just told you everything wrong with it, choice is yours. I have never had anything come back to me in 30 years, and i used to buy/sell Mopar parts for a living. Not everyone is a crook. I was one ov a handful ov Mopar parts guys here, and i was the only one that wasn't shady. I was also the only one that wasn't very wealthy. Interesting co-relation there, ya think? HHMMMMM... . . .

Me too.

 

The first step in "trusting" someone, in regards to picking a C3 Corvette, is to first identify the mindset and perceptions of the guy you are considering trusting. You have to be on the same page as to what you are looking for, what is important, etc. There are lots of people on this forum that look at these cars as some museum piece (NCRS Types), others buy them for "investment", and you can tell these types by the fact the cars live in the garages for months and years....accumulating almost no miles. And then you have the types, like me, who love the C3 Corvette for what it is, and that includes driving the car. I restored my car to better than GM ever considered,....and then I drive it as much as I can. I also realize that every model year of C3 Corvette is 90% the same as every other model year. Rubber bumpers versus chrome, blah blah blah. From a pure enthusiast point of view, that loves every year of the car, they are all just a few mods a way from being the same. Engine power is easily changed. Suspension and transmissions, easy. An 81 Corvette can be as fun to drive as a 69,.....all depends. Its funny to me when a guy makes claims that a 69 427 Corvette is better than an 81......sure, bone stock there is a difference, but again.....all easily fixed. I can tell you that my 77, .....with good suspension, steering and a 406 SBC is a COMPLETELY different machine than a stock 1977 Corvette.

Point is......if you want help, you first have to figure out what kind of Corvette person you are talking to. You find the right guy in that regard, then you just have to know if he is an ethical, and moral person....or a crook. That is harder to know. I trust very few people....and learned that the hard way. As others have said....trust is earned....over a period of time...through experience. Its not something that happens overnight.

 

I know enough to avoid the BS. Seems completely rusted out wreck is all i get to have. I have a certain amount ov money, and thats all i'm going to have. Where i live you cant save money, at all... and the longer i hold onto this, the smaller the stack gets. Its been well over a year ov looking. I want a car.

I can be quick locally, but across borders? I'm 100% relying on other people, and moving at their speed. It sucks. Hence the original question.

 

Sounds about right. Thats all i get here for my money. However... i'll take a complete, decent looking steel bumper 4-speed car with all that rust over a clean, rust free rubber bumper car. FOR ME... its cheaper and easier to fix rust than it is to buy, and graft on both front and back steel bumper clips.

 

Agreed. And again... hence the original question. Its not so easy on my end...

 

Yes... i know, but whats to stop whichever stranger i ask to go see it, from falling in love, and then buying it themselves? or shoot it towards a friend that wants one?

A LOT ov people have little vision, and wont even bother unless the pics are flattering, but you get them up close and in person, and they see the deal. Then wham! Its gone. Worse? 'I ' made that happen. This has happened to me before, twice. Hell, i cant even link a car to ask if the AD looks good... or ask if someone has say a 69 coupe for sale cheap... because the second someone answers, its snaked by someone who never even bothered to ask. I lost a beautiful dream car doing that once. never again.

 

Yeah... and i've only been here a year, unfortunately.

I know even an 81 can be turned into a 69, or a convertible can be made into a coupe... auto to stick, smallblock to bigblock... etc. But how much extra work do i want to do? There are local 74-79 cars for around 3K USD here... automatics, roachy, that i could clone into a 69 stick car... but man... front clip, rear clip, stick conversion, all the details... suddenly that 3K car is a 15K car. Thats not gonna happen overnight, and i dont want to look at a 75 ***-end, or a bubble window, or drive around in 'D' for five years. Best just to buy a steel bumper roach. I'm not restoring it. I'm daily driving it (365 days a year, and racing it when i can.

There is a completely plowed 70-72 coupe near me, gutted, automatic... rusty as all hell (you can see the rust from the road), complete, but hanging/sagging/cracked front clip. Its far gone, but from behind it looks whole... and i'd pay a grand for it. Just cant get a hold ov the owner. THAT... is a bad idea... one i've passed on for a year now... but this is getting ridiculous. Guy probably would want 5K for it anyways...