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One or more of the previous owners of my '77 didn't much care if she sat out in the weather or not. After compound, polish, wax, and LOTS of elbow grease, I got the paint looking MUCH better. However, there are two spots on the rear deck at the bases both pillars where the paint bubbled and flaked (or was scraped) off.
I'm certainly no expert on automotive paint, but my thought is to spot fix the area by wet sanding and priming, then spray and blend in with a color matching paint. I don't need it to look perfect, but I'd like something better than the way it looks now. Am I on the right track with this or does anyone have a better solution that doesn't involve a total repaint?
A full body repaint is on my wish list, but I have a ton of other expenditures that have priority over that right now.
You have the right idea. But the problem with those areas is that they were poorly prepped. So, you may have to remove more paint in those areas to get back to paint that is solidly attached. If that causes you to remove primer, too, you'll need to clean the fiberglass well (non-volatile cleaner), scuff it, prime it and paint it. Your solid paint color will make it easier to match.
If you have some $$$ saved up, you might consider driving it by a few paint shops to see what their take is on the damage and get some repair estimates. Be sure to tell that that you ONLY want to repair the damaged areas. A 'pro' will do a much better job, unless you have had experience painting fiberglass.
Agree with 7T1vette - no easy way to get it done right without exposing more area for proper prep, then blending is always a issue since its a big panel.
Only other alternative I can think of is to use touch up bottle brush.....which might not be good enough for you. I went that route similar area around back window since its not the most noticeable area on a driver.
Looks like a good candidate to attempt a drop fill on. The crisp areas around where the paint chipped out has created a recessed area that you can fill with thin successive layers of paint applied by dripping it in and letting it dry. Eventually it will level with the surrounding area at which point you add few more layers and then can lightly sand back to level and polish.
Thanks for the feedback, everyone. Maybe I'll run it by a paint & body shop to get an estimate before I attempt anything on my own. I'd rather it be done right than super cheap, BUT I also don't want to spend a lot of money on it that could otherwise be used to improve performance.
Thanks for the feedback, everyone. Maybe I'll run it by a paint & body shop to get an estimate before I attempt anything on my own. I'd rather it be done right than super cheap, BUT I also don't want to spend a lot of money on it that could otherwise be used to improve performance.
i like the suggestions you got.. buy some repair paint from one of the vendors paint stores.. (some are lacquers) pick off very loose paint (don't go nuts..) clean with wax and grease remover, and pour in and brush around..as stated before.. perfect candidate.. and slows further disbondment . 20 bucks..until repaint..
I really hate seeing paintwork not done right, or corners cut in the name of "I'll fix it right later"....but that's one ugly place....so, if you know any used car dealers(or new, or salesholes that work for a dealer) ask if they use one of those mobile touch-up guys, and who he is, and how to get hold of him. There are good ones, and there are mediocre--but odds are good the end result will beat the pants off what you have now.Can't expect Ridler quality repairs from a job done quick and outside with minimal tools, but .... A couple hundred should be the end of the rainbow price wise. Good luck!
Looks like a good candidate to attempt a drop fill on. The crisp areas around where the paint chipped out has created a recessed area that you can fill with thin successive layers of paint applied by dripping it in and letting it dry. Eventually it will level with the surrounding area at which point you add few more layers and then can lightly sand back to level and polish.
BINGO this is the way I personally would "fix" the area. ESPECIALLY because it is not metallic it will be fairly easy to "dab" it in.
If the color is matched correctly and you do not point the areas out to other people - it is unlikely most would ever see the areas.
Here is an upclose of the fill in on the rear "spoiler" lip.