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I don't, but so many old wives tales out there. How many distribution blocks have you rebuilt?
If the distribution block is full of gunk, it will probably stick to one side, but then it should be replaced or rebuilt.
FYI If your distribution block is defective (mine had a bad O ring that disintegrated and partially blocked a port), get it rebuilt. ALL of the current china crap replacements come from the same chinese manufacture, regardless of the vendor or the price. I installed a new replacement, threw my original one away, and later found out that the internal machining, port spacing, etc, were not exactly correct. It kinda, mostly, worked, but the port spacing was off and didn't totally match the piston. So I went on to look at other parts, etc. I would have been better off rebuilding my old one.
FYI If your distribution block is defective (mine had a bad O ring that disintegrated and partially blocked a port), get it rebuilt. ALL of the current china crap replacements come from the same chinese manufacture, regardless of the vendor or the price. I installed a new replacement, threw my original one away, and later found out that the internal machining, port spacing, etc, were not exactly correct. It kinda, mostly, worked, but the port spacing was off and didn't totally match the piston. So I went on to look at other parts, etc. I would have been better off rebuilding my old one.
That's what I did. I rebuilt my old block. I have never used the ones that all the vendors sell.
This is the block for the 68 vet that most distributors sell. Not sure about later models. I don't think it's chinesium. Another good reason not to use DOT5. I'm pretty sure this isn't compatible.
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
Originally Posted by kodpkd
I am sorry,,,,, but that doesn't happen and that's not the purpose the valve. It only lights the warning light. The MC is divided in two halves. Front and rear. This is supposed to keep one half working, but I am not convinced of this either. As it says the light will only be on when you are pushing on the pedal,,, and goes off, the valve centers, when you lift the pedal,, no resetting, no stomping.
My '74 Service Manual says the same and on my Vette the LIGHT will go ON as you press the brake pedal and OFF as you release the pedal. That is how mine works.
For those that need to center the piston so the light goes OFF, yes! Stomping works for some but another way might be to have a helper depress and hold the brake pedal as you crack open a front bleeder.
If the light is still ON press and hold and crack a rear.
Your Corvette will stop on one system even if you had a serious leak but it will increase stopping distance by a lot.
Update: I have replaced my stainless steel brake pistons with aluminum in the passenger rear caliper. Took the car for a test drive...there was a slight improvement but still more braking in the rear of the car. So I decided to do some experimenting and took out my new rear brake pads on both rear wheels and put in my 20 year old organic brake pads. Took the car for a test drive and had a more definite bite in the rear brakes. So my next experiment was to reinstall new brake pads in the rear calipers. Then I put the same old brake pads in the front calipers and that made a big difference in the braking system. So my new brake pads are carbon ceramic..I think I may have just gotten a bad set of pads. I have contacted the company and I did receive a communication from them asking for proof of purchase. Next communication from the company was an email about a package coming..probably a new set of brake pads..don't know yet. Maybe the same problem will continue with these new ones...don't know that yet either. Appreciate everyone's input...I'll let you know what happens. Lazlo
I think old brake pads will work better in the "old manual" systems. The new pad designs are just not designed for manual systems. I have good luck with organic and semi metallic. That is, if you just want to putt around town.
