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Hey guys. I bought some used vansteel offset trailing arms a while back and didn't realize they had extended studs on them. So I ordered OEM studs not thinking the knurl would also be larger. I'm trying to figure out how to replace the studs with a larger knurl but still keep an OEM level stud (7/16-20?) So that my rotors and wheels can still slide over them.
I can't locate my caliper to properly measure the diameter of the extended stud, but the knurled part fits snug inside a 16mm open end wrench, which of I'm correct correlates to a .630 diameter knurl. So I'm guessing I would be looking for a .630 knurl but 7/16-20 thread? Is that something that exists? What are my options? Drill bigger holes in my rotors and chop the stud down so it won't stick out an extra 2inches? Any help would be appreciated
-- thanks!
Being in Australia I found that finding the correct original studs was not possible unless I ordered from the states. a bit of a google search and I found a couple company's that make and market wheel studs. I managed to find studs that matched up perfectly other than being a tad long. Not much to shorten them.
I would suggest press one out. get a good measurement on the hole, spline. and then do a search online for studs.
Post a pic of the offset trailing arm with the extended studs (side-view) so we can see the actual studs. The solution may be simple.
I already pulled all the studs. The pic I posted is of an OEM style stud next to the longer stud that I pulled
Originally Posted by Bikespace
Can you swap the hub assemblies off of another set of trailing arms?
Or can you embrace the racecar look, with deep, open end lug nuts of the correct diameter?
I thought about that, but I'm looking for the cheapest option before going that far. That would include buying new hubs, redoing the bearings, etc...
Originally Posted by 4-vettes
Being in Australia I found that finding the correct original studs was not possible unless I ordered from the states. a bit of a google search and I found a couple company's that make and market wheel studs. I managed to find studs that matched up perfectly other than being a tad long. Not much to shorten them.
I would suggest press one out. get a good measurement on the hole, spline. and then do a search online for studs.
That's pretty much what I did, but couldn't find a .630 with a 7/16-20 thread so I just ordered shorter .630 1/2-20 and will widen the holes on the rotors. The rims will accommodate the bigger studs. I was just trying to get around touching the rotors
Those are ARP 1/2-20 x 3". I machine them to stock or any length then make sure the knurl doesn't extend past the axle flange otherwise you may have rotor runout issues. You can countersink the back of the rotor hat as well but I like to just keep them just under flush.
Those are ARP 1/2-20 x 3". I machine them to stock or any length then make sure the knurl doesn't extend past the axle flange otherwise you may have rotor runout issues. You can countersink the back of the rotor hat as well but I like to just keep them just under flush.
So what would you suggest I do in this scenario? Or are you offering to machine me 10 that would work for my situation? 👀
You can certainly install the ARP studs in the stock flange. If you are going to rebuild the axles it's a perfect time. If you just want to install the larger studs you can do it on the car. You have to measure the flange thickness to see how much of the knurl is sticking out and as I said you can countersink the inside of the rotor hat so the knurl clears- as long as its not too much. You can cut the studs to length with a cut off wheel and use a chamfer tool. You have to be sure to deburr all the mating parts or you will have a lot of rotor runout. Lisle makes a nice stud puller that will install these easier then a nut. If you have access to a lathe then you can machine them as I do. No solicitation intended, just information.
You can certainly install the ARP studs in the stock flange. If you are going to rebuild the axles it's a perfect time. If you just want to install the larger studs you can do it on the car. You have to measure the flange thickness to see how much of the knurl is sticking out and as I said you can countersink the inside of the rotor hat so the knurl clears- as long as its not too much. You can cut the studs to length with a cut off wheel and use a chamfer tool. You have to be sure to deburr all the mating parts or you will have a lot of rotor runout. Lisle makes a nice stud puller that will install these easier then a nut. If you have access to a lathe then you can machine them as I do. No solicitation intended, just information.
You're the man! I guess I got overzealous and removed the studs for no reason -- but stud puller and chamfer tool are on the way. Appreciate it!
Help with wheel studs
