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Looking for advice... I picked up a 1973 C3 that was my grandmothers a few weeks ago. It had been sitting in her carport for the last 16 years. She used to take me driving in it as a young child and I'm working to bring it back to running and driving condition. I don't know a lot about cars so the learning curve is steep!
What I've done so far:
*replaced fuel pickup, fuel lines, and filter
*changed spark plugs, coil, and sanded points
*rebuilt all calipers with new o-rings and seals, replaced brake hoses/lines as needed, bled brake system
I finally got to drive the car around the block yesterday! When I got home, I just left it idleing in the driveway for a while to charge the battery (son left the key on overnight). Next thing I know, it just turns off and wouldn't crank back up. It was like it wasn't getting fuel or it had a very weak spark? I turned it over this morning and it fired right back up.
If you are going to do any repairs look on eBay for a 73 Chevrolet Service Manual, AIM (assembly installation manual), and all the C3 catalogs from every one of the Corvette Parts Suppliers (they have terrific illustrations plus any replacement parts/prices you may need). It really neat that you have taken over your grandmother’s car, she must be something to have owned a Corvette! Congratulations you have come to the right place.
Check the spark, if good look/smell for gas at the carburetor.
Thanks, I have some manuals saved in my Amazon cart right now.
I've ordered a carb rebuild kit and other parts to completely clean and rebuild the quadrajet, thinking that it is likely gummed up from sitting so long.
I just found it weird that it was running so well and then all of the sudden, it just wouldn't run for nothing. If the fuel pump return line is clogged, could that be an issue? It's the only line I didn't make sure to clear when working through the fuel delivery.
What was the temperature on the gauge when idling and did you verify with an infrared thermometer? Running at idle for a long period of time will tend to raise the coolant temperature, has low fuel flow, and with no/low air flow (like when driving) to remove the heat, you may have vapor locked the fuel lines. That certainly explains why it started when cold. Check the routing of the new fuel lines to maximize clearance with the manifolds/exhaust. Replacing fuel lines is a difficult job with the body on.
Sounds like you are on the right track. Make it stop, make it run, make it run faster, make it pretty...in that order. You will probably want to look over/replace every price of suspension rubber. Don't forget the rag joint.
What was the temperature on the gauge when idling and did you verify with an infrared thermometer? Running at idle for a long period of time will tend to raise the coolant temperature, has low fuel flow, and with no/low air flow (like when driving) to remove the heat, you may have vapor locked the fuel lines. That certainly explains why it started when cold. Check the routing of the new fuel lines to maximize clearance with the manifolds/exhaust. Replacing fuel lines is a difficult job with the body on.
Sounds like you are on the right track. Make it stop, make it run, make it run faster, make it pretty...in that order. You will probably want to look over/replace every price of suspension rubber. Don't forget the rag joint.
Cool story. Good luck with it.
The temp gauge read about 210, assuming it was correct. I didn't verify that it was correct. I did pump the gas and it sprayed fuel so it wasn't vapor locked. What about the fuel return line, could it give me a problem if it is blocked? I've ordered a kit and parts to rebuild the carb, I'm sure it needs help after sitting so long.
Nice car. You will have fun tinkering with it. My suggestion. When you find something you want to fix or make new again, look how it was when GM built it. They ran just fine in the 60's. There are way to MANY aftermarket add ons you can buy, but to many just create more serious issues. Pumps, springs, fluids etc etc etc.
If it is a points ignition......if you leave the key on, it is a 50/50 if the point is closed or open, and if it is closed can burn the contacts on the points as the ignition is energized. This is the reason the Acc position on the key exists.
The ignition coil will get get very hot if the key is left on and the distributor points are closed. This may damage the coil and will overload the contacts in the points so these will need checked as Jebby said.
Does Amazon sell the Assembly Instruction Manual (AIM)?
If they don't go to any Corvette vendor and get the AIM for you year. It's the manual the factory used to assembled the car on the line. It's my go-to manual for everything.
One important matter - those tires that have been sitting for 16 years will need replaced pronto, no matter how good they look. One of them can easily blow and tear up a lot of a nice looking body. Post more pics for us and glad to have you along. Cool story with your Vet!
One important matter - those tires that have been sitting for 16 years will need replaced pronto, no matter how good they look. One of them can easily blow and tear up a lot of a nice looking body. Post more pics for us and glad to have you along. Cool story with your Vet!
Yes, they definitely have flat spots on them. I'll get them replaced after I work the kinks out of the car before really taking it on the road.
The ignition coil will get get very hot if the key is left on and the distributor points are closed. This may damage the coil and will overload the contacts in the points so these will need checked as Jebby said.
Originally Posted by Jebbysan
If it is a points ignition......if you leave the key on, it is a 50/50 if the point is closed or open, and if it is closed can burn the contacts on the points as the ignition is energized. This is the reason the Acc position on the key exists.
Jebby
I changed the coil out yesterday after getting several with the same advice regarding leaving the key on for an extended time. The car is running now. I think this is what it was being that it just shut off all of the sudden when it got hot and wouldn't start again. It acted like it wasn't getting a spark so I feel confident that is what it was.
I also cleaned up the plugs and put new plug wires in. Those front 2 plug wires on each side!!! How do you run the passenger side through the shield without removing the starter??
I would replace the points and condenser as well, could be pitted. Simple task and dwell meter is best to use but you can set them with a feeler gauge.
Nice to keep the car in the family. curious if it's a 4 speed or auto.
I would replace the points and condenser as well, could be pitted. Simple task and dwell meter is best to use but you can set them with a feeler gauge.
Nice to keep the car in the family. curious if it's a 4 speed or auto.
It's an auto. I don't have a dwell meter, is that something I should invest in?
It's an auto. I don't have a dwell meter, is that something I should invest in?
They're nice to have, but you can also use a multi meter that has a duty cycle % option. A dwell of 30 on an 8 cylinder would be 67% on a duty cycle meter. I still have my old dwell meter.
It's an auto. I don't have a dwell meter, is that something I should invest in?
Ford and Chrysler didn't have windows to adjust the dwell like GM did, we did them with a feeler gauge with the points open on the cam. This is old school tune that I guess is being lost today. You probably can find a nice dwell meter on ebay cheap, why not get one and keep it with the car. Some may say to go electronic and convert but I keep the points in my car and it runs great.
PS You should also have an adjustable timing light as well