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Old Nov 8, 2021 | 05:11 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Rich123
I'm finally able to work on this again.
I ordered a repair kit from Ecklers, watched a couple of videos and read a couple of PDFs and jumped into it today. I was able to follow the instructions along pretty well until I needed to pull the ball socket sleeve. It doesn't budge. It looks like it is supposed to slide out after the retaining piece is unscrewed from the top but it doesn't. It doesn't move at all.
Am I missing something???
Also, as I'm pulling it apart I can see that it is really dirty inside. The oil in it actually has grit in it. I'm planning to try to flush the whole system before reinstalling the valve.
If the "Adapter sleeve" is jammed in the valve body, that's your problem. That sleeve (the ball end of the stud goes into it) is what controls the actual power assistance. It needs to slide in the body to do that. You'll need to get that out of the body and clean it thoroughly. Ideally, get a new one, but last time I looked the "full" rebuild kit was not available.

Incidentally, I don't know what you have already read, but I watched the Wilcox video, but also rad these instructions, which I found almost more useful:
http://www.cssbinc.com/images/ads/ho...structions.pdf

Sounds like the rubber boot may have failed, and/or the seals.

Last edited by Stephen Irons; Nov 8, 2021 at 05:16 AM.
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Old Nov 8, 2021 | 09:24 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Stephen Irons
If the "Adapter sleeve" is jammed in the valve body, that's your problem. That sleeve (the ball end of the stud goes into it) is what controls the actual power assistance. It needs to slide in the body to do that. You'll need to get that out of the body and clean it thoroughly. Ideally, get a new one, but last time I looked the "full" rebuild kit was not available.

Incidentally, I don't know what you have already read, but I watched the Wilcox video, but also rad these instructions, which I found almost more useful:
http://www.cssbinc.com/images/ads/ho...structions.pdf

Sounds like the rubber boot may have failed, and/or the seals.
I actually printed out the PDF in the link you listed. I had used it to disassemble the valve. The Wilcox video was also a good source, even though it was about reassembly, it does have good information along with pictures and video which helped me in one area where the PDF seemed to miss a step.
In the video, he slides the Adapter sleeve or ball stud cage, as it's called in the PDF, into the housing very easily. Since my sleeve does not move I thought that maybe it was threaded into the housing, but after figuring out the principle of the valve, I can see that it must slide easily or, like mine, it won't work at all. I left it soaking over night and will probably leave it all day. If it does not come out easily, and with the close tolerances that seem to be involved, I'm afraid that I'll destroy it trying to get it out. So, I'm pretty sure I'll end up buying a new complete unit.
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Old Nov 9, 2021 | 04:36 AM
  #23  
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Yes, when I rebuilt mine, the "cage" was a little difficult to remove, it moved, but wasn't keen to come out! But some very careful cleaning and judicious use of fine "wet & dry" and it was a nice fit, no slack, but it slide in and out easily. Hopefully you'll will become free.....
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Old Nov 9, 2021 | 11:14 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Stephen Irons
Yes, when I rebuilt mine, the "cage" was a little difficult to remove, it moved, but wasn't keen to come out! But some very careful cleaning and judicious use of fine "wet & dry" and it was a nice fit, no slack, but it slide in and out easily. Hopefully you'll will become free.....
I've had it soaking in kerosene for two days, if that doesn't do it tonight I'm going to soak it in WD40
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Old Jun 9, 2022 | 02:44 PM
  #25  
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Follow up-----
The old unit was virtually destroyed and useless, so I bought a new one. I had to drive the sleeve out with a hammer and large drift. There were very few parts that could be salvaged, but I did save a few in my "this could come in handy" drawer.
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Old Jun 9, 2022 | 05:18 PM
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Well, that took awhile. but glad to hear your car is fixed.
Hopefully you got the wheel straight this time.
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Old Jun 9, 2022 | 05:35 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by 4-vettes
Well, that took awhile. but glad to hear your car is fixed.
Hopefully you got the wheel straight this time.
Thanks.....
I didn't get the wheel straight. I went in one too many turns and I'm not going to pull it apart and back it out one. I'll take it like it is....not leaking and working.
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Old Jun 9, 2022 | 05:54 PM
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ttt
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Old Jun 9, 2022 | 09:26 PM
  #29  
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Tie rods can be adjusted to compensate and center your wheel.
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Old Jun 9, 2022 | 10:56 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by 4-vettes
Tie rods can be adjusted to compensate and center your wheel.
Thanks, I didn't know that. I'll check that out.
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Old Jun 10, 2022 | 08:04 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Rich123
Thanks, I didn't know that. I'll check that out.
I wouldn't go there. You could fudge up somebody's laborest work from the alignment shop.
You start playing with the tie rods and you alter the Toe-In / Toe-Out specs.
Either do it right or leave the C.V. alone.
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Old Jun 10, 2022 | 08:45 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Peterbuilt
You might want to remove the pressure line at the pump then remove the big nut and see if the valve move freely.
Also 10 minutes and free.
adjust ur power steering control valve pretty simple fix good luck
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Old Jun 11, 2022 | 07:05 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by HeadsU.P.
I wouldn't go there. You could fudge up somebody's laborest work from the alignment shop.
You start playing with the tie rods and you alter the Toe-In / Toe-Out specs.
Either do it right or leave the C.V. alone.
well if it's not possible to measure toe at home, (it certainly is for many of us).
Then take it to an alignment shop and have them adjust the tie rods to straighten the wheel.
Seriously, if you turn one a quarter turn in and the other a quarter turn out your not going to mess it up!
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