When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
While installing Vintage Air in my '69 big block (factory air), I discovered this. Pls let me know what you think. Thanks! PS: Sorry for the blown up pic...
The cylindrical 'thingys' are non-flammable end pieces to the fusible link; and the insulation on it is also non-flammable. That is very important to the construction of a fusible link, because if it fails (due to some dead-short in that power line), the wire inside the insulation will melt (yes, melt) and power will be interrupted. If there were regular insulation and/or no fire-break end pieces on the link, it would start an insulation fire and "toast" the vehicle.
Makes you wonder how "lucky" some DIY folks are who replaced a GM fusible link by just sticking some smaller gauge, regular wire in its place.....
I get that our C3’s were designed with these scary fusible links, but wouldn’t it be better to replace these ancient fusible links by installing an inline fuse or actually install an under hood fuse block and run these circuits through spade type modern fuses?
Even if you wanted to have an all original appearing engine compartment a small fuse block is easy to conceal.
Last edited by OldCarBum; Nov 6, 2021 at 12:45 PM.
If you replace it with a fuse you’ll want a slowblow type to replace a fuseable link. Allows for short period of over amperage like a fuseable link would.
If you replace it with a fuse you’ll want a slowblow type to replace a fuseable link. Allows for short period of over amperage like a fuseable link would.
I'd like to confirm a 30 amp blade fuse will provide the correct level of protection? Please let me know if the 30A will work OK. I'm not so good RE electrical. Will try to find info on "slow-blowd type" fuses. Working to replace my fusible link which is on its l last leg...
I don't know to tell the truth. It looks to be the GM orange 10 gauge wire in which case it could be 30 amps. A good place to start maybe. Fuseable links aren't rated the same as fuses. IMO a fuseable link should be replaced by a fuseable link. But if you want to go another route it's up to you.
This is what a slow blow looks like in case you've not seen one.
You might try researching out to Richard454.
He has designed several electrical circuits for our C3's and he may be able to answer your questions.
If he does provide you with a new design to replace a fusible link, please share it with us.