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This diagram is for my ‘66, but all TI are similar. The connector I mentioned is the gray, white, pink wire connector on the left.
On a 1971 LT-1 TI amplifier connection is no longer at the Amplifier. But at the end of the pigtail. Later Amplifiers look like this along with its harness to the coil.
At the connection of the pig tail to the harness it could have corrosion but it is not likely. The most common problem for a runs and starts then dies or will sometimes not start then does. Is the pickup coil pigtail due the advancing plate movement inside the distributor cold works the very fine wire. When I had my 1971 LT-1 I always had 2 new pickup coils spares. Back in the day when I was just learning about the TI system. Always blamed the Amp but learned it was really the only item in the system that had movement that had the highest percentage of failure.
PJO, thank you for the clarification. I should know better by now not to assume C3 configurations follow C2 configurations, so I appreciate the correction and education! Always nice to learn something new.
2025 c3 ('68-'73) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2025 Corvette of the Year Finalist - Modified
2024 C1 of the Year Winner - Modified
2023 C1 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2023 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2022 C1 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2020 C1 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2019 C1 of Year Finalist (performance mods)
2018 C1 of Year Finalist
After working on the car for a couple of months to replace and refresh some things, the damn thing won’t start again. When I last left it last in December, it was running. I got it off the jack stands to align the rear end last week, and she won’t start. Exact same symptoms. Since then, I replaced the coil pick up with another new one. Same problem. Starts for a second, then dies. I’ve tried two 272 coils and one 207 coil, all repro. Two new coil pick ups, two used original TI amplifiers, several grounds, but same thing every time. I’m not an electrical expert by any means, so testing components is not my forte. I am beyond frustrated.
Last edited by Geralds57; Mar 1, 2022 at 02:32 PM.
Now first I would check your ignition switch could misaligned that when you release the key it is not in the run position. Or it has worn out over time.
I would say fark it at this point, drop a new HEI distributor in it, and come back to this problem another time. If you're like me, your goal is to drive the car this year, not work on it.
I would say fark it at this point, drop a new HEI distributor in it, and come back to this problem another time. If you're like me, your goal is to drive the car this year, not work on it.
why not keep the current distributor and mount a 4 pin hei module inside the box. OP could keep all the t.i. wiring and module in place ro keep the factory look. This is my plan should i have another t.i. failure.
2025 c3 ('68-'73) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2025 Corvette of the Year Finalist - Modified
2024 C1 of the Year Winner - Modified
2023 C1 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2023 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2022 C1 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2020 C1 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2019 C1 of Year Finalist (performance mods)
2018 C1 of Year Finalist
I talked to Dave Fiedler a few days ago, and gave me some things to check, outside of what I’ve tried. It looks like it might be the ignition switch on top of the steering column. With the key in the on position, I don’t have any voltage at the pigtail feeding the distributor, so I’ve ordered a new switch. It should have 12 volts that position. It shows voltage when cranking but dies when it springs back to the run position. That explains why it dies, no voltage. Going to be awhile before I get back on it.
