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I am considering buying a 78 vette with a damaged left front fender. His wheel fell of while driving. I see I can buy new fenders for it pretty cheap. Can I cut out the damaged area and put in a new part in that area, cut from the new fender? I watched a video about replacing the entire thing, but that's a big job, I just wonder if we could us a part of the new fender, then blend it in? This is all new territory here for me. The rest of the car of perfect.
The same thing happened to me, and what made it worse was that it was my own stupid fault. I'd had the car on stands for about 3 weeks and didn't properly tighten the left front wheel when I put it back down. After five minutes of driving, terrible noises, left front drops down and I had to use the door to push the tire/wheel away from the car so I could get out and see exactly what my carelessness had cost me.
I live in Europe, so not much hope of a shop with the right experience, and I decided to do it myself. Not a lot of fun, but, even an honest friend of mine who saw the car before and after says it's pretty damned good. Paint matching the original was almost impossible, so I stopped at the top fender crease and then back to the door/fender crack. With the light hitting it from above, the new paint and old paint are seen from 2 different angles, and it looks normal.
For what it's worth, I'd repair it. If you match the old and new paint at those pin stripes, it should work out really well.
My car's a more or less daily driver, and it's 45 years old, definitely not a show car.
Anybody who funds fault with it probably drives a Hyundai, so who cares?
I am considering buying a 78 vette with a damaged left front fender. His wheel fell of while driving. I see I can buy new fenders for it pretty cheap. Can I cut out the damaged area and put in a new part in that area, cut from the new fender? I watched a video about replacing the entire thing, but that's a big job, I just wonder if we could us a part of the new fender, then blend it in? This is all new territory here for me. The rest of the car of perfect.
As nice as that car appears, it is worthy of a proper repair on that fender. The right person will have no problem replacing that fender in a manner that would be nearly if not completely undetectable. A "spliced" fender would be quickly detected and cast a shadow of suspect on the car to future purchasers. I think blending and matching the paint will be the greater challenge and you will have that regardless of your method of repair. Chip.
first, where are you? this whole nose can be found cheap, but shipping makes free parts very expensive when this big a part is involved. the nose is a big job, but takes much less actual body work. the damage across the top is right at the bonding strip where the fender is attached to the hood surround. so the whole fender would be an easier repair than tryna patch the damage where the damage is. but a patch panel loike this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/15393784155...4AAOSwllZewtGt will take care of most of the bad stuff. if you were to try to do this yourself, you need to accept that the first version will come out less than perfect. but you need to learn glass work somewhere.
The same thing happened to me, and what made it worse was that it was my own stupid fault. I'd had the car on stands for about 3 weeks and didn't properly tighten the left front wheel when I put it back down. After five minutes of driving, terrible noises, left front drops down and I had to use the door to push the tire/wheel away from the car so I could get out and see exactly what my carelessness had cost me.
I live in Europe, so not much hope of a shop with the right experience, and I decided to do it myself. Not a lot of fun, but, even an honest friend of mine who saw the car before and after says it's pretty damned good. Paint matching the original was almost impossible, so I stopped at the top fender crease and then back to the door/fender crack. With the light hitting it from above, the new paint and old paint are seen from 2 different angles, and it looks normal.
For what it's worth, I'd repair it. If you match the old and new paint at those pin stripes, it should work out really well.
My car's a more or less daily driver, and it's 45 years old, definitely not a show car.
Anybody who funds fault with it probably drives a Hyundai, so who cares?
The fender damage is repairable. I would be more concerned as to how the wheel and tire came off.
EXACTLY! Rookie here/Me. Correct the problem that caused the driver wheel to fall off (the passenger wheel may fall off, also)
If you can find a used fender locally. Or a partial fender to make the repair yourself, that would be good to gain experience. If it doesn't look exactly correct when you finish the repair, a body shop may be able to smooth out your repair and paint the fender..
The wheel fell of because the shop that did his brakes did not tighten the lugs. They will not have anything to do with it now. If I get one, I surely not take it to them. They simply told him "not my problem". As for the paint I agree that will be a big challenge to get the color to match. I may have to have the entire car re shot. I am up in Nor cal, Vacaville to be exact.
Judging from your pictures, I would say this is a 60/40 split between repairing vs replacing the whole fender - meaning it’s close to a toss-up. If you are planning on doing it yourself, IMO it’s a no-brainer to repair as evidenced by hdeoyng’s post. Done correctly, you’ll never know it happened.
Whichever way you go, be sure that the fiberglass repairs are done with an epoxy based resin. Your car is built with SMC (Sheet Molding Compound) panels which are NOT compatible with the polyester resins that are used with FRP (Fiberglass Reinforced Plastic) panels that were phased out by 1973.
Silver paint is the absolute worst to match. You can try to have it matched but I would seriously consider a respray of the entire left side.
What would you guys think a price for this vehicle as it sits? I went back over and offered to jack it up and get it on wheels again but he doesn't have the lug nuts, because they all fell off. I told him to get a set and we'll get it up on it's wheels again. I'd like to test drive it first before I make an offer, I see prices are all over the place for this year, Decent ones go for around 14,0000 and up. I figure that repair would be all of 5000.00. if not more. Am I thinking right?
Someone that knows what their doing can fix that, no need to replace the fender. As for value that's a hard call but something south of $5K given the repair bill to get it fixed.
Understand your desire to want to test drive it but the rotor is likely toast from the incident. The threads on the studs are also likely messed up. As I see it, you can:
1). Submit an as-is/where-is lowball and see if he bites
2). Assuming he’s willing to allow you to, carefully examine the rotor for damage. If it doesn’t turn freely and truely, don’t attempt to drive it. While you are looking, assess the condition of the lower control arm, steering linkage, sway bar attachment. Any damage to these is also a non-starter for driving. The backing plate is junk so you can bend it out of the way if everything else checks out. Know that he is the owner so he bears all liability in the event you drive the car and can’t control it. I assume the car will start and run so while you will be able to hear the engine, you won’t be able to confirm the condition of the transmission, differential, etc. In this case you will have to decide how much risk you are willing to take and adjust your bid accordingly.
3). Get him to replace the rotor/other damaged mechanical items, to put the car in driveable condition, then submit an offer accordingly.
In researching this vehicle, I found there were two 350 motors availible, A base motor and a higher compression L 82 motor I think it The owner just knows it is a 350, How can I tell which motor it is?
In researching this vehicle, I found there were two 350 motors availible, A base motor and a higher compression L 82 motor I think it The owner just knows it is a 350, How can I tell which motor it is?
If all you know is “its a 350” it could be an original L48, or an original L82 or an NOM motor. The difference of value will be significant.
It sounds like you need someone with Corvette experience to help you properly inspect this car before you thinking about writing any checks.
That cracked fender might be keeping you from seeing the rest of the car.
That cracked fender might be keeping you from seeing the rest of the car.
The above is right IMO, I don't think you can find a C3 that does not need something fixed or replaced. So besides your front end repair which looks like more than 5gs to me when paint is figured in, you don't know any additional costs. The owner has to realize this if you make an offer but I'll wager they won't.. Good luck, get it cheap or keep looking..
The fifth character of the VIN will be a 4 for original L-82 cars; an L for the base engine cars.
and then the engine identifiers posted above. PLUS the vin stamp on the block willmatch the last 8 of the vin on windshield if it is the orig engine. if L48 orig engine is essentially meaningless. if L82, it adds value.
What to do?
