Long overdue u-joint & diff swap thread
So some background. A year and a half ago I bought a '69 site unseen from AZ. It was about a month or so after covid started and no one was traveling. I had it inspected by Lemon Squad and it got a glowing review, so everything is good, right? Actually its in pretty good shape. The previous owner removed the 350 and put in a 454 (a '71 vintage I think) as well as Steeroids and a bunch of other stuff up front. I'm not sure if its been an AZ car all its life, but no worrying rust. The one area it needs attention is the rear suspension.
Its my first Corvette, and first truly older car, so driving it was a blast. It tended to wander a bit, and it took me a while to realize that this wasn't normal, and to track it down to the rear suspension. In the mean time, it started making a bad rasping sound from the driver's rear, and then developed a camber issue with the tire. Looking around, the cap had come off the u-joint.
At this point I'm already saving for either a Ridetech or Van Steel coil over replacement for the trailing arms, so I really don't want to put a ton of cash into the fix if I don't have to. I've got a rear bushing replacement kit from Corvette Central (who sent it in a Volunteer Vette box
), and I have greaseless spicer u-joints for the half shafts. @Andy Tuttle was kind enough to send me a spare set for the drive shaft as well. Thanks Andy! Since I want to eventually put more power under the hood, I'm preparing for that as well, and I got a new differential from RaceVette with more splines. So I took the half-shafts out in early November, and the car has been sitting on the lift since then waiting for me to get more time.
And actually it isn't that I didn't have time, I got a honey do from the wife to finish the chicken coup before it got too cold.
So yesterday I finally got more time to work on the car. I stripped everything off the diff. The hardest part was reaching the u-joint covers in front of the differential. The previous owner put a performance cross-pipe exhaust on, so the only way I was able to get enough room was to remove the lower differential cover and put a wrench in there. Thank the Lord that the bolts weren't rusted in.
Now I'm ready to remove the differential cross member, but I pulled the bolts and hit it with the short crowbars that I own. No joy. Right after this its off to work and the HW store to buy a bigger crow bar.
Thanks for reading!
Simon
After I rebuilt the stock front suspension I still noticed the wanderi g problem you spoke about.
After I removed the rusted mou ting bolts I had to soak both diff. crossmember cushions for several days on my '68 project.
It still require a 3' long crow bar with a 6' extension of pipe on the crowbar to pry the crossmember aloose.
I hope it goes easier for you.
Keep us updated with pics.
If the cushions are cracked/dry/brittle rubber/badly rusted it would be good to install new cushions.
- Paint or powder coat or something else?
- If I'm going to paint them, is it best to do them with the u-joints out, or with them in along with the flange?
- If its out, do I just use tape to protect the area where the u-joints are installed?
- Is it (paint or powder) going to affect the shafts balance?
- The differential
- How do I protect the moving areas (where the various axles join the diff body)? I'm not going to disassemble it. I don't have the confidence I would get it back together the right way.
- If I get it powder coated would the heat hurt the internals?
Thanks, Simon
* * * *
I included your other questions in this thread.
So I visited the HW store and came out with a new persuader...
I was able to get the differential support out, but not without a fight.
I overbalance when it popped loose and ended up hitting my ribs when I fell over the rear lift arm. Hopefully they aren't too serious, but it sure made moving the diff around a whole lot of fun. So I worked that loose and separated the differential from the support. Next task was to put the tire back on the '81 my uncle has stored in our barn. It caught a screw or something.
Probably my last update for a couple of days. We have to run up to Dallas (about 4 hours) for a funeral tomorrow and I won't have a chance to get anything done. Next comes cleaning/painting/powdercoating/whatever.
Thanks for reading!
powder coating requires high heat of ~375f substrate temperature.be sure your parts will handle..u joints will not. Protect threads to.
any black power epoxy preferred will do well..mid gloss may be more underbody appropriate 50-70 gloss
or…get the parts clean and liquid airdry clearcoat gloss or semi gloss to protect and look orignal as cast or raw steel..
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ual-l82-2.html
and labels if you like
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...abel-talk.html
Last edited by interpon; Dec 29, 2021 at 11:14 PM.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
powder coating requires high heat of ~375f substrate temperature.be sure your parts will handle..u joints will not. Protect threads to.
any black power epoxy preferred will do well..mid gloss may be more underbody appropriate 50-70 gloss
or…get the parts clean and liquid airdry clearcoat gloss or semi gloss to protect and look orignal as cast or raw steel..
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ual-l82-2.html
and labels if you like
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...abel-talk.html
I think I'm going to go with painting at this point as I have an already assembled new diff and I don't want to take it apart to powder coat it. Cool label links too, that never occurred to me!
When we were removing the failed u-joint from the half shaft, it turned out to be quite a bit more broken than we initially thought and requires that the half-shaft be replaced.
So I ordered a couple of 3" chrome-molly half-shafts from Dynotech after selling my diff to help pay for it. In the mean time i'm painting the driveshaft yellow/black and I'll post a picture of it when I'm done. I had a slight stroke last weekend, so progress is slow.
Regards,
Simon
Regards,
Simon

















